I don’t have the JLR service instructions. Blades and tensioner screws is the toque settings I am missing.Yes I took the half horseshoe tool and used torque wrench to the exhaust cam on the passenger side and intake cam on the drivers side.
I don’t have the JLR service instructions. Blades and tensioner screws is the toque settings I am missing.Yes I took the half horseshoe tool and used torque wrench to the exhaust cam on the passenger side and intake cam on the drivers side.
The 5.0 was the answer to the underpowered complaints and also if manufacturers kept the same engine for 2 decades all the engineers would be out of work.
To me it suggests that unloaded Classics should accelerate better than an LR3. My short LR3 driving time kind of confirms that.
I think a 4.2 RRC feels a lot peppier than a LR3. Those are total dogs
Maybe that reliable template wouldn’t be so reliable if you start tweeking it. They probably couldn’t have made as much power without direct injection. So they would need to bolt high pressure pumps to the thing someplace and change stuff in the heads too.Right I get that, but why not add power to an existing reliable template for at least one more generation of vehicle?
My guess is a six-speed transmission has a lot more to do with it than the engine.LR3 goes 0 to 60 in 8.3.
A European 4.2 LSEI Vogue (whatever the hell that is ) does it in 10.2.
My L320 also gets 19 mpg in the summertime...
I don’t doubt that the LR3 is faster, I’m just referring to how it feels to driveLR3 goes 0 to 60 in 8.3.
A European 4.2 LSEI Vogue (whatever the hell that is ) does it in 10.2.
My L320 also gets 19 mpg in the summertime...
/sLR3 goes 0 to 60 in 8.3.
A European 4.2 LSEI Vogue (whatever the hell that is ) does it in 10.2.
My L320 also gets 19 mpg in the summertime...
I will sell you the entire set up I have for a great deal!What timing tools did you buy to do this job? I’ll be having to buy my own and I have a cheap Chinese set of tools for timing the 2.0 engines.
I'm assuming this is the first timing chain job on your truck? If so, that is encouraging. I just turned over 101K on my 2013. What year is yours?Oh ya, 191,000 miles on the clock. Ready for another 200k!
Yes first one, at 191k miles. Glad I made it that far, was starting to tick pretty good. It’s a good size job, attention to detail is a must and walk away when tired. Don’t try to push through it first time. If I did it again it would be much much easier now.I'm assuming this is the first timing chain job on your truck? If so, that is encouraging. I just turned over 101K on my 2013. What year is yours?
I’m in the market for one so we could work something out I’m sure. The 2.0 kit I got from Amazon was a shitty little Chinese kit. I’ve used it several times but one of the parts has never been right and currently broken.I will sell you the entire set up I have for a great deal!
Or……what I would do is give them to you and just pay shipping and when the next lad in this group needs them you ship them to him as long as they pay for shipping.I have the crank pulley tool, the cam lock set and the injector slide hammer.
The crank pulley tool, I cut the crank bolt threaded shaft so you do not have to remove the radiator,
The cam lock set I put regular bolts on the outside ends and removed the wing bolts that hit the shock towers.
I bought all on Amazon. They are a good set for sure. I spend $250 for all the tools. $100 plus shipping and it’s yours. Shipping is prob $25
Sounds good. Do you use PayPal?I have the crank pulley tool, the cam lock set and the injector slide hammer.
The crank pulley tool, I cut the crank bolt threaded shaft so you do not have to remove the radiator,
The cam lock set I put regular bolts on the outside ends and removed the wing bolts that hit the shock towers.
I bought all on Amazon. They are a good set for sure. I spend $250 for all the tools. $100 plus shipping and it’s yours. Shipping is prob $25
So you don’t take the starter off and install that plate? I’ve never been able to torque that thing without locking the crank with that thing.I use a harbor freight stubby 1/2” impact for the crank bolt along with a weighted socket from Ingersol Rand.
To remove the pulley I just use a standard puller that bolts to the pulley.
For reassembly I use a 3/8” ratchet and a brass hammer to work the pulley on then hit it with an impact.
I used the timing sensor tool and the big crank pulley set up. I put the jackstand under it to transfer all the force onto the stand and reduce stress on the sensor tool.So you don’t take the starter off and install that plate? I’ve never been able to torque that thing without locking the crank with that thing.
I met a guy in Atlanta that was using just the crankshaft timing tool that slides into the crank sensor hole. That was when we had to replace the crank bolt for that recall