5'' rovertym lift
- Thread starter bmn1965
- Start date
I totally agree here.. When I first installed my 5" I was on a "true" 32 with a large offset wheel and they stuffed Great.. When I went with the 35's (read 34 actually) with again, a large offset, bumpstops were needed... Mainly because of the offset and width of the 35's.MUSKYMAN said:
What's gas mileage... And why are we talking about parking garages??MUSKYMAN said:
don't forget....
hd axles
4.11 gearing maybe if you stick with 33-34, but 35 best off with a 4.75.
begs the question, is this all worth it? What are you doing that requires all that flex? Looks good?
hell 3" lift is bad enough but 5" cause more problems then it's worth IMO. Go off camber going downhill with it and report back.
hd axles
4.11 gearing maybe if you stick with 33-34, but 35 best off with a 4.75.
begs the question, is this all worth it? What are you doing that requires all that flex? Looks good?
hell 3" lift is bad enough but 5" cause more problems then it's worth IMO. Go off camber going downhill with it and report back.
justinhaaga said:
the camera work sucks and it makes it look flat but look at the trees and watch both up hill tires coming off.
my truck is plenty stable off camber.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5EoCIXkNRh0
Thom, is that what you call mountains out there?
To reiterated, downhill/uphill with some ledges that put you offcamber, what happens is you flex out so much you get some crazy body roll and if you don't retain your springs it really fucks you up.
I suppose it depends where you live and the type of terrain you wheel, I don't see any problems with your Vid Thom, looks like a good setup.
To reiterated, downhill/uphill with some ledges that put you offcamber, what happens is you flex out so much you get some crazy body roll and if you don't retain your springs it really fucks you up.
I suppose it depends where you live and the type of terrain you wheel, I don't see any problems with your Vid Thom, looks like a good setup.
ok I happend to love my 5" set up I use bliiys 7100's and cones in the rear open/stock diff with 35" tires no bump stops (just timm more off the body ) I like to push my junk to its limmits and sometimes beyond ...
MUSKYMAN said:
Damn Musky nice work! Sounds like you have the "extreme" duty GM fan clutch LOL! That's what mine sound like too. Sure is flat up there but nice bouldering.
Cheers,
Mike
MUSKYMAN said:
bringing this one back from the dead. Been toying with this idea for a while and I think I'm about to execute. You mention some stuff on here I haven't seen anyone address before.
Did you cut and move the spring perches so the spring sits level at rest? I've seen some stupid tall broncos that look like they are ready to spit the coils at rest, trying to avoid that. I'm thinking about picking up an extra front housing and rotating all of the bracketry up a yet to be determined angle and doing a cut and turn on the flanges.
Why did you raise the panhard bar? Did you do something to the steering to keep the geometry happy?
robertf said:
The front perches have enough material in them that you can cut a small wedge shape out of the sides then tap them down and weld them back in to get the angle right. Rovertym also sells some wedges for it and those work well if you want to move the lower spring plate rearward, this is a good idea as well because to run the big tires you need to push the front radius arms forward with spacers to get the clearence at the rear of the wheel well.
The Panhard fix is something I did first a number of years ago and it really smooths out the steering on trucks with a big lift and redrilled swivel balls. when you do the 5" front springs and the redrilled swivel balls the drag link and panhard end up in two different planes so as you hit bumps the steering wheel see-saws back and forth. by raising the panhard mount on the axle housing end so the bolt hole is on the same plane as the drag link you restore the two links to the exact same plane and all the bump steer and see-sawing goes away. The easy way to do it is to harvest the right side steer bracket off the driver side of the housing and stack it on top of the factory mount and weld it in place there. you can also just make your own as well if you see fit. the key is getting the bolt hole directly behind the center line of the drag link.
ptschram
Well-known member
ptschram said:
I think he was more laughing at the open stock diffs and 35's....thats just a stupid combination that will do nothing but fail if you really wheel the thing.
ptschram
Well-known member
MUSKYMAN said:
Not necessarily. Gary got really good at swapping diffs in the field!
He went through five rears and three fronts in one season.