'95 4.2 w/rough idle when warm...
- Thread starter 57loboy
- Start date
sven said:
Pretty sure it is...coil too. Was just messing with it now, cranks, kind of wants to start but won't. :banghead: :banghead:
Paul is coming over in a little while to give me a hand diagnosing things.
PT - front seal actually doesn't leak on this one! I think it has been replaced before, maybe when the waterpump was done by the prior owner. If Paul and I can't figure it out, I may just send this thing to Dawson at Classic 4x4s as he used to service it regularly for the original owners.
OK - so, Paul and I checked the timing and that doesn't seem to be off. TDC has rotor pointed right where it should be at #1 terminal. At this point, I am going to get a new module and coil and see where things go from there as both look to be 100% original. I'll know more early next week...:ack:
my moms "new" 95 had its engine rebuilt by previous owner. similar symptoms to yours. 1st thing i did, which solved it, was reset the static timing. while the dizzy was out, I took off the amp and found coolant type crud on the plates. i cleaned and regreased that and it runs beautifully. the exhaust she has is rotten and will be replaced soon, but there is an occasional hideous rattle from both pieces and this causes the idle to dive, but then levels out again.
but since misery loves company, the eas collapsed, replaced it with springs. now some switches dont work and the steering box just sprung a leak. . .
i'm anxious to hear about your solution. good luck! e
but since misery loves company, the eas collapsed, replaced it with springs. now some switches dont work and the steering box just sprung a leak. . .
i'm anxious to hear about your solution. good luck! e
New coil and module arrived yesterday, had no time to install, hope to do it tonight. Will post up when I do...
OK - installed new Bosch coil and module from AB, all connections clean and tight. Still nothing... This thing has me stumped. I double checked the plug wires, everything I can think of and nothing. It cranks and cranks, sounds like it wants to catch (weakly) but never does. Of course, still no codes -ever. WTF???? :banghead: :banghead:
If you haven't already, I'd mark the distributor/cover, pull it out and check the mechanical advance. I don't know, maybe you can check the mech advance with it still in the motor. Damn, you've got a winner here.
Tom
at least your not the only one......i spent 3 hrs last night in my driveway freezing to get the new pickup installed and the damn thing stalls with in 15 min :banghead:
how is the voltage going to the coil? pos side i have batt volts the neg side i have 10.5 not running. running i have alt volt on the pos and 11.5 on the neg so i think it may have something to do with that.....
may be the same for you
i heard a while ago that the ignition switch could be a factor anybody else hear that
at least your not the only one......i spent 3 hrs last night in my driveway freezing to get the new pickup installed and the damn thing stalls with in 15 min :banghead:
how is the voltage going to the coil? pos side i have batt volts the neg side i have 10.5 not running. running i have alt volt on the pos and 11.5 on the neg so i think it may have something to do with that.....
may be the same for you
i heard a while ago that the ignition switch could be a factor anybody else hear that
Coil voltage is 12v when not running. As it doesn't run, I can't tell the other. If the ign switch was bad, I'd think it wouldn't crank at all. Remember, my truck did run and has gotten worse to where it is now. It's only been dead for a month now! :ack: :ack: :banghead: :banghead:
Spoke to Dawson @ Classic 4x4s this AM, he's suggesting I check the inertia switch as it could have failed. However, as I have fuel to the injectors (plugs were wet last night) I'm only cautiously optimistic. He also mentioned a cold start chip in the ECU, but the car ran fine without it (if it doesn't already have one) for the last 12 months... Gee, aren't Rovers fun?
I posted the following a few years ago. When you say it runs badly, is there a strong smell of gasoline? As I say below, it was guzzling gas, with an extremely strong smell or unburnt gasoline. It took Inland Rovers about four (4) hours of diagnosis by elimination (fuel pressure, fuel injector leak-down test, throttle position sensor, MAF, coil, cap, rotor, wires, temperature sensors, oxygen sensors, ECU) to finally look at the air gap setting in the distributor as the solution.
Three years ago, my 95RRC went full rich, loading up the spark plugs, and guzzling gas (you could see the gas gage needle drop as you drove).
I could not figure it out. I even used the diagnostic procedures in the RAVE CD, with no luck.
I decided to let Inland Rovers (Riverside, California) diagnose it, using their Auto-Logic equipment. They found that the air gap in the distributor, was smaller than acceptable (I did not think to check this). They reset the air gap, and the engine ran normal and the gas mileage was back to normal.
Inland Rovers, said that the under size air gap, allowed the coil to fire and turn over the engine, but that it somehow affected the signal to the ECU, which cause the fuel injection to run full rich.
Jim Lupinetti
P.S. A year before this, I replaced all the injectors.
Three years ago, my 95RRC went full rich, loading up the spark plugs, and guzzling gas (you could see the gas gage needle drop as you drove).
I could not figure it out. I even used the diagnostic procedures in the RAVE CD, with no luck.
I decided to let Inland Rovers (Riverside, California) diagnose it, using their Auto-Logic equipment. They found that the air gap in the distributor, was smaller than acceptable (I did not think to check this). They reset the air gap, and the engine ran normal and the gas mileage was back to normal.
Inland Rovers, said that the under size air gap, allowed the coil to fire and turn over the engine, but that it somehow affected the signal to the ECU, which cause the fuel injection to run full rich.
Jim Lupinetti
P.S. A year before this, I replaced all the injectors.
Jim - When it was running (ah, the memories!) it had pretty consistent gas mileage and didn't seem to be running rich. The stumble when it did run was pretty bad and what's got me going nuts is that it used to run and now won't. If the inertia switch doesn't do it, I will look into the air gap and if I can't get it there, will send it away to be diagnosed. I've got to get the thing back on the road...I'm tired of commuting 60 miles a day in my POS F350 w/E-range tires!
Have you checked the coolant temp sensor yet??? Could be sending a false signal to the ECU thinking it's still warm out.
ptschram
Well-known member
The ignition switches can cause all manner of weirdness. Remove the shroud and while actuating the key, push the base of the switch (where the wires come out) toward the center of the truck. The contacts are staked into the housing and over time, they come loose. My brother-in-law's truck would shut down every time he made a left turn! Replaced the switch and all's good.
Just checked air gap and it's right at the low end of the spec...doesn't look like anything has moved there. Lucas rotor (double/triple checked! 
) is there...
Checked ignition switch connections per PT's suggestion - all is well there. Need another set of hands so I can try the intertia idea from Dawson...
) is there...Checked ignition switch connections per PT's suggestion - all is well there. Need another set of hands so I can try the intertia idea from Dawson...
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57loboy and lforgue8,
According to your posts, you have 7k and 5k miles respectively, since major service, including new cap and rotor.
I did a tune-up about nine (9) many years ago (I have owned my RR Classic, since 1997), and had a similiar problem. It ran well cold, and would start to miss/stumble when warm at about 2k to 3k miles later. I talked with Eddie Bostock, at West Coast Rovers, who suggested that I put on the old cap to see if the problem would go away (it did!). He told me if it did, that I had a "hair-line" crack in the cap. The malfunction showed up only after the engine and cap had warmed up, and had expanded. Eddie also told me to check the rotor for continuity, from the tip to the inside retaining spring clip (holds the rotor to the distributor shaft). He told me that if there is continuity, that the rotor shorts out to the distributor shaft. He told me that there had been a problem with some rotors that were manufacture improperly.
According to your posts, you have 7k and 5k miles respectively, since major service, including new cap and rotor.
I did a tune-up about nine (9) many years ago (I have owned my RR Classic, since 1997), and had a similiar problem. It ran well cold, and would start to miss/stumble when warm at about 2k to 3k miles later. I talked with Eddie Bostock, at West Coast Rovers, who suggested that I put on the old cap to see if the problem would go away (it did!). He told me if it did, that I had a "hair-line" crack in the cap. The malfunction showed up only after the engine and cap had warmed up, and had expanded. Eddie also told me to check the rotor for continuity, from the tip to the inside retaining spring clip (holds the rotor to the distributor shaft). He told me that if there is continuity, that the rotor shorts out to the distributor shaft. He told me that there had been a problem with some rotors that were manufacture improperly.
Do not bother checking the ignition switch...just REPLACE the ignition switch. The symptoms you describe are that of ignition switch going bad in the ON position.
Randall
Randall