Well now I am about to do my Christmas project and undertake changing my LT-230. Any tips from you guys? Also will I need to completely drop my Y-pipe? How do I deal with the linkage and I assume that I will have to take the center console out to disconnect the parking brake cable?
And it is on.
- Thread starter Timmy!!!!!!!
- Start date
Remove the gear change assembly and the sound proofing to expose a rubber panel which is pop rivetted in place. Drill out the rivets and remove.
It will then be clear which 2 places you have to undo to release the transfer case shifter and lock. Dont lose the clips and the little nylon bushings.
To release the parking brake cable, lift up the panel that holds the window switches. Unscrew the panel elow that and push the switches out of the way. Squeeze in the base of the boot.
You will then find a clip that holds the cable outer and a pin and clip that holds the cable inner. Release boh and push the cable downwards.
Careful. that rascal is a pain to reinstall due to its shape.
Steve
It will then be clear which 2 places you have to undo to release the transfer case shifter and lock. Dont lose the clips and the little nylon bushings.
To release the parking brake cable, lift up the panel that holds the window switches. Unscrew the panel elow that and push the switches out of the way. Squeeze in the base of the boot.
You will then find a clip that holds the cable outer and a pin and clip that holds the cable inner. Release boh and push the cable downwards.
Careful. that rascal is a pain to reinstall due to its shape.
Steve
Go buy some bolts the same size as the ones that hold the transfer case and cut the heads off and round the ends really well. Put a couple of these up where the other bolts were and they are a good guide to get that thing out and back up into place. If you get them long enough, it gives you enough space to even get the splines lined up when you are re-installing. It's not a terribly heavy case, but it's awkward. Using those studs to line it up for removal and install makes it a bit easier. They are M10 or M8's, but I can't remember the thread pitch... someone here will know. I don't know if have the tools to do it or not, but the service manual has dimensions for a bracket you can put on a transmission jack. It bolts in place of the bottom cover on the case. That makes the job a snap. If you have the tools you can probably even adapt it to a floor jack, but a tranny jack with head that tips makes it really easy! The right tools make all the difference.
dont do anything with the park brake cable, once the drum is off just remove the 4 15mm head bolts and the whole assy will come off. then just bungi cord the thing off to the side. no way in hell i would take the shifter off at the top. the diff lock lever I just take off at the t case. the high low part i remove one of the nuts so i can slide the shaft out of the lever on the t case. I would say good luck but I think God help you is more fitting.
I kept mine all together when I did it in my Range Rover. I drilled out the rivets and took the whole thing down as a unit. I also undid the park brake cable at the lever. I really didn't think it was that bad. I have pulled a lot of different t-cases in a lot of different rigs and I thought this one was relative easy. However, I did use a transmission jack and made the alignment studs. I also did most of the work with the Range Rover in the air on a lift. I pulled it exactly how the service manual says to do it and it really wasn't hard.
if its the very bottom bolt it is an open hole to the inside of the t case. It's threads need sealant on them to keep from leaking. But I can't tell what thats a piture of.
rover4x4 said:
It is the very bottom bolt hole facing the front of the truck. How do you know haha!
What did yall do to get the transfer case off of the splines? This has been a fun project to do outside with all of the snow that came today...
you need to take the big round cover off the back of the t case. Then pull the bearing with your hand, the gears you see will slide out as an assy. Then loosen the bolt you see on the end of that shaft. after that bolt is loose you will be able to pull that input shaft out with your hand. Then you wont have any splines left or shaft left to deal with. Just put the top nut back on the stud so thewhole thing dont fall on your head.
ptschram
Well-known member
I too know that bolt is unnecessary!
If you're replacing an LT-230, it's easier to disconnect the parking brake from the t-case and ratchet strap it out of the way. If you're replacing a B-w qith an LT-230, it's still easier, but the backing plates aren't inter-changeable and will need to be swapped over.
When removing the bolts from the transfer case, make damned sure you get them back into the same holes as the length differences will result in binding of the gears as the bolts will bear against the gears. Best case, teh truck won't move. Worst case, you'll break gears.
Merry Christmas!
PT!
If you're replacing an LT-230, it's easier to disconnect the parking brake from the t-case and ratchet strap it out of the way. If you're replacing a B-w qith an LT-230, it's still easier, but the backing plates aren't inter-changeable and will need to be swapped over.
When removing the bolts from the transfer case, make damned sure you get them back into the same holes as the length differences will result in binding of the gears as the bolts will bear against the gears. Best case, teh truck won't move. Worst case, you'll break gears.
Merry Christmas!
PT!
ptschram
Well-known member
discostew said:
You don't need to pull the input shaft. Remove the PTO cover and reach in and extract the gearset.
This brings up a good point-the splines on the input shaft should go all the way the length of the smaller diameter, otherwise, there is a risk of conflict as the earlier trucks only had the splines extend partway down the shaft. If you do not have the correct input shaft, the input gearset of the old transfer case might be able to be used until you can obtain the longer spline input shaft-but there's a risk the input gearset won't be compatible.
Also, carefully inspect the splines on the input as the earlier input gearset was not cross-drilled and suffered from oil starvation resulting in knife-edging of the teeth.