Isn't there just a local yocal shop you can go to? LR "certified" techs are needed for this very easy job.
Brake Job Cost?
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Isn't there just a local yocal shop you can go to? LR "certified" techs are needed for this very easy job.
You may as well factor in the cost of 20 new lug nuts if going the cheap shop route.
One of the first thing I did with my D1s - ditched those dumb ass lug nuts and went NATO.
read this late but would have guess 1,200 if blindly asked. Subaru dealership just quoted me 1,100 for my wives ride, I laughed and said no thank you.
brakes on d2 are one of the easier tasks I have ever completed on the truck. Second time around I did it in 4 beers I think it was.
brakes on d2 are one of the easier tasks I have ever completed on the truck. Second time around I did it in 4 beers I think it was.
5 for the lugs, 2 for the caliper...... what am I missing?
And yes, its just a bunch of junk bolted together when you get right down to it.
I just meant in comparison to a D1 rotor/pad job the D2's are child's play.
You'd be surprised how often shops screw it up. I would expect an independent shop to not have a Pozidriv #4 bit for the rotor set screw. Sure, they'll get it out, but it will likely be stripped out for the next guy. I pretty regularly see brake lines twisted, anti seize on the calliper slides (big no no), and pads installed backwards.
Why would someone feel better about going to an independent shop and paying the same rate that a dealer charges? How is it that dealerships have become the scurge of the earth? You have young guys who are dedicated to one brand working under the direction of engineers and trainers who are also dedicated to the same brand, yet people would rather go to some yuk who might have seen a couple Rovers over the course of his career and pay him the same rate? It's a big old goofy world.
I'm a firm believer that the service advisors are the root of the problem. There are definitely bad techs everywhere, and techs that sell work that isn't needed, but I think the service advisors are the real issue. They are the ones telling a customer that the water pump can wait, but they should do the throttle body service ASAP.
I've always tried to teach younger guys that you can stay busy with legit work that really needs to be done. I work in a place that we don't do the wallet flushes. There is so much work on these cars that really needs doing that you can leave some of it that's not a safety issue and consider it money in the bank.Kind of help people sort out what needs to be done today and what will need to be done eventually. Or when it's time to walk away because the damage exceeds the value of the truck. If I had 5 kids that would be willing to advocate for customers I could take over the automotive world.
Too much workshop stuff is done to a book time, not what is actually needed.
That helps the dealer cost a job but doesn't do too much for the car owner.
We have a couple of indy repairers near to us, one in town and one out in the sticks near Peterborough. I much prefer the guy out in the sticks as he has to bring work in and relies on repeat customers, while the local guy has passing trade every day.
I will do as much as I can myself, but don't have a problem going to a dealer if needed. A lot of our parts come from a main dealer in Bedford, who gives us trade prices and free next day van delivery, very nice people to deal with.
We are spoilt for choice in the UK.
Peter
That helps the dealer cost a job but doesn't do too much for the car owner.
We have a couple of indy repairers near to us, one in town and one out in the sticks near Peterborough. I much prefer the guy out in the sticks as he has to bring work in and relies on repeat customers, while the local guy has passing trade every day.
I will do as much as I can myself, but don't have a problem going to a dealer if needed. A lot of our parts come from a main dealer in Bedford, who gives us trade prices and free next day van delivery, very nice people to deal with.
We are spoilt for choice in the UK.
Peter
The funny thing is our local Exxon (yes Exxon) sees more Land Rover's than most realize. It's a small town, but a VERY high concentration of old and new Land Rover/Range Rovers. Some farms having only Land Rover products - p38s, RRCs and L322s. Both mechanics are actually really great, super nice and regularly will leave the shop to help someone along the road with a flat, dead battery, etc - my GF for one.
I wouldn't want them diagnosing a BCM, but I'd trust them doing any basic service with brakes, fuel, ignition, etc. More so in some cases than dealers I've experienced many moons ago.
There are bad techs and great techs everywhere. Its really a crap shoot. The only thing I will say about the dealer is that they have a much larger check book to stand behind their work and fix their screw ups.
In December 2014, our local independent mechanic replaced discs and pads on all 4 wheels on our 2004 D2. Total cost was $853.45 for parts, labor and tax. Family-owned shop in Kansas City area in its third generation with very good reputation.
So I think I'm going to find the time and give this a try myself.
Any suggestions on what brands to buy? Anyone have a full parts list that I need? I'm confused about what bolts I need.
Also, who's got the best prices now? US or UK sellers?
Any suggestions on what brands to buy? Anyone have a full parts list that I need? I'm confused about what bolts I need.
Also, who's got the best prices now? US or UK sellers?