compression test, one low cylinder

[discostew]

Hey guys, I'm in the middle of trying to do a head gasket change, and I can't get bolt #1 from the left hand side. I've actually broken one swivel joint and one 3" extension.
Any ideas.
It's been soaked in PB Blaster, and I'm using a breaker bar on a torque wrench.

That one is a bitch for sure. If I went digging I could probably find you a Land Rover service procedure that tells you to bump the firewall back a little bit with a air hammer. I've done it that way once or twice but it felt pretty dirty. I used to keep brand new 16mm sockets from snap on and he would replace them when they started to fit loose.I think I used to get a 1/2 drive swivel impact socket and my long ratchet wedged against the bulkhead.I probably did at least 2 of these jobs a week back when they were warranty.

So if you feel so inclined take a air hammer and one of those big flat hammer like bits and push the sheet metal out of your way a little. I'm not making that shit up, Land Rover told us to do it that way. Less than half of us did.

 

[robert.juric]

I used a wobble extension. It has less flex than the swivel but just enough to fit it in there:

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-pie...impact-wobble-socket-extension-set-67066.html

 

[gthphotography]

thanks pm and discostu
i broke my 5/8 (16mm) socket i had. I'm moving on to impact wrenches. Will try the little extension.
My understanding is that it is a 16mm, 5/8 will just be a tighter fit.

I think I'll skip the air hammer. I'd end up punching a hole in the firewall.

 

[robert.juric]

Haha I was just in your shoes. I too had to swap to impact socket for the HG bolts. I also cracked like 3 10mm sockets during my job.

It felt like all of these little things kept adding up, but I got into a bet with my wife and still came out on top compared to sending it to a shop.

 

[p m]

thanks pm and discostu
i broke my 5/8 (16mm) socket i had. I'm moving on to impact wrenches. Will try the little extension.
My understanding is that it is a 16mm, 5/8 will just be a tighter fit.

I think I'll skip the air hammer. I'd end up punching a hole in the firewall.

It is 5/8, not 16 mm. I did use 16-mm 6-point Craftsman socket in your situation (just because there were no 6-point 5/8 sockets in my collection), with 1.5" extender, and leaning the top end of the extender/head of the breaker bar onto the firewall - very much like what discostew suggested.

 

[gthphotography]

It is 5/8, not 16 mm. I did use 16-mm 6-point Craftsman socket in your situation (just because there were no 6-point 5/8 sockets in my collection), with 1.5" extender, and leaning the top end of the extender/head of the breaker bar onto the firewall - very much like what discostew suggested.

thank you for the clarification
love the switching between standards

 

[gthphotography]

Head off.
The gaskets look good. No appearance of a blown gasket. The LHS had a sticky valve in cylinder 3. The valves look ok to me, but I know from the leak down test that it's not sealing correctly.
Thanks for all the help.
5/8 did the trick.

Any ideas for cleaning the head?

 

[discostew]

It is 5/8, not 16 mm. I did use 16-mm 6-point Craftsman socket in your situation (just because there were no 6-point 5/8 sockets in my collection), with 1.5" extender, and leaning the top end of the extender/head of the breaker bar onto the firewall - very much like what discostew suggested.

It might be a 5/8 . But we used 16mm sockets. And I still do. But I might have only done a few hundred headgasket jobs on Bosch engines, but it's been years. So I'm sure I could be wrong.

 

[robert.juric]

I'd take the heads to a shop to be surfaced and a valve job done. They'll usually hot dip them for you.

 

[robert.juric]

But I might have only done a few hundred headgasket jobs on Bosch engines

Only?

 

[jymmiejamz]

Its definitely 5/8"

 

[gthphotography]

while i'm in there, reuse or replace push rods and tappets?
Anything else?

I may take the engine out to replace my flex plate in the transmission. If that's how that's done.

 

[discostew]

while i'm in there, reuse or replace push rods and tappets?
Anything else?

I may take the engine out to replace my flex plate in the transmission. If that's how that's done.

Pushrods will be fine. You need to look at the seat in the rocker arm that accepts the pushrod. With a small pocket screw driver try to turn the steel insert. Do it by putting the screw driver into the oil hole and get it cocked in it so you can turn the insert. It shouldn't turn at all. Those tick real loud when that happens.

 

[jymmiejamz]

I may take the engine out to replace my flex plate in the transmission. If that's how that's done.

Yeah you'd have to pull the engine or trans to do it. I'd rather pull the engine, especially if you aren't doing it on a lift. Why are you replacing it?

 

[gthphotography]

Yeah you'd have to pull the engine or trans to do it. I'd rather pull the engine, especially if you aren't doing it on a lift. Why are you replacing it?

my flex plate flywheel to torque converter is bad. Those little grommet hole covers keep getting sucked into the flywheel and I've pulled teeth out. (the teeth are from an old starter)
The clearance has gone to almost zero when I put my finger in there.

I'm assuming that when I pull the engine, I'll have total access to it and won't have to drop the tranny,

 

[gthphotography]

Pushrods will be fine. You need to look at the seat in the rocker arm that accepts the pushrod. With a small pocket screw driver try to turn the steel insert. Do it by putting the screw driver into the oil hole and get it cocked in it so you can turn the insert. It shouldn't turn at all. Those tick real loud when that happens.

thank you again

 

[discostew]

Turn the engine from the crank bolt in front of the engine.Not sure what your planning to do, but I leave the trans in the truck.

 

[JohnnoK]

The rocker shafts are likely going to be worn, too which contributes to lowering oil pressure and general play/slop in the valve gear.
Have a look at the camshaft while the heads are off, the lobes can round off quite dramatically before it runs crap.

Use OEM rocker shafts and watch the orientation for correct oil flow path.

 

[gthphotography]

Turn the engine from the crank bolt in front of the engine.Not sure what your planning to do, but I leave the trans in the truck.

leaving the trans in the truck is the way to go.

 

[gthphotography]

go my engine hoist today.
i'm going to leave in the radiator and protect it.
are there engine lift points or do I just wrap a chain around the thing?

I read some previous posts, and it seems like taking off the top of the engine helps.

I've pulled the driver side head, which, admittedly, had a engine hook point. But there was only one, and that doesn't make any sense from a balancing point.

Also, do I have to support the transmission (I thought the tranny had mounting points)

Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance.

Oh and do you raise the truck up?