D1: front brake calipers in the rear
- Thread starter p m
- Start date
I also believe this is the direction things will go. To be followed in turn by "D1 adjustable brake proportioning valve install & calibration" thread (which I am particularly interested to read), to be then followed by "D1 headrest upgrade" after the comprehensively beefed-up braking system gives the driver whiplash.
Nick, I believe on 80% of Classics and D1s on the road the leaking hub seals take care of the chances for whiplash.
I think the prop valve will be ok. If you went from 2 pot fronts and drum rears to 4 pot fronts and 4 pot rears it would be a different story. As long as the front locks first, you're good.
My '95 came with an adjustable proportioning valve. I never got a chance to fiddle witb it but I do feel like its a mod more people will do.
Even on my daily driver '96 D1 the rear brakes suck. Calipers are good and I get fluid out of the lines but the rotors never seem to get scraped clean from the pads engaging.
My '98 on the other hand wore down relatively new pads in a few days in Michigan's UP.
I have a feeling the proportioning valve is the culprit in both cases.
I too will be waiting to hear the results of these 110 rear calipers. I'm wondering how much a of a difference
an ever so slightly larger pad and piston, and retained pad will really have???
I run those 110 rear calipers, pads, and rotors. I've probably had them on for about 5k miles or so. I don't have any issues. There was definitely an improvement in brake, but I my old calipers were rusty to the point that I couldn't compress them, so I can't say it is a result of the bigger brakes. I did my rear brakes before doing everything up front and had issues in the snow with the rear locking up, but after doing the front everything seems good. I got everything from Zack.
Time for a group buy of 110 rear calipers?
Recently, I found another downside of having over-braked front - it hurts you big time on loose hillclimbs with TT f/r.
Recently, I found another downside of having over-braked front - it hurts you big time on loose hillclimbs with TT f/r.
ptschram
Well-known member
ptschram
Well-known member
I'm looking for a picture of the D90 front calipers mounted to a rear axle. It's not perfected, but the proof of concept is there and done now.
It's far from a bolt-on option, but it should stop well.
It's far from a bolt-on option, but it should stop well.
So, let me see if I have this right...
Defender (90 or 110, does it matter? is one better?)calipers will bolt right in on the front on a stock D1. (sometimes with slight bending of the brake lines to make them fit?)
And in the rear, you can put rear D90 calipers but they are only slightly bigger than the stock D1's.
if I wanted a 4 piston caliper, I can use the front D1 calipers in the rear, but I would need something like the bracket by red winches? (I would also need D1 front rotors in the rear)
THis conversion vastly improves front braking and depending on the attention paid to the rear, possibly that too.
am I way off? or did I miss anything?
This sounds pretty easy in theory and not terribly expensive for what you get out of it.
Defender (90 or 110, does it matter? is one better?)calipers will bolt right in on the front on a stock D1. (sometimes with slight bending of the brake lines to make them fit?)
And in the rear, you can put rear D90 calipers but they are only slightly bigger than the stock D1's.
if I wanted a 4 piston caliper, I can use the front D1 calipers in the rear, but I would need something like the bracket by red winches? (I would also need D1 front rotors in the rear)
THis conversion vastly improves front braking and depending on the attention paid to the rear, possibly that too.
am I way off? or did I miss anything?
This sounds pretty easy in theory and not terribly expensive for what you get out of it.
Put 110 calipers in the front. You can use the rotors you already have. Get new pads for D90/110.
Drive it and see how you like it before you go jacking with the rear.
Drive it and see how you like it before you go jacking with the rear.
Just put the 110 calipers up front. You can go vented or non-vented. I like vented myself but understand the concern of mud getting packed into the rotor vanes. The hard line from the DI caliper can be used but you'll need to re-bend it to suit the 110 caliper. The next important component is pads. Spend money on high quality ceramic pads and you'll be very surprised by the additional braking forces. Other than better pads I just leave the rear alone. Of course, this is assuming that your rear calipers aren't 20 years old. I bought most of my stuff from Trevor at Rovahfarm.