D1 Overheating after new radiator, thermostat and fan clutch...

M

Macro1

Well-known member
May 14, 2010
116
0
1999 D1

Recently rebuilt block that was running fine for a couple months until the temperature started to rise quickly.

Vehicle will gradually reach 220-225 while idling (tested via OBDII and mounted gauge, both reading the same temp). Note: the temp gauge on the cluster must not be working properly as it reads below half way.

I have replaced:
Radiator
Thermostat (180 degree tested and functional)
Heavy Duty fan clutch

No coolant in the oil. No oil in the coolant.


*******************************************************************************


UPDATES:

New water pump
No air in the system
No exhaust gases in the coolant

A few months back the truck started to idle high and make a whine and a separate noise from the top end. I took a video a few minutes ago to capture the noises. Of course it sounds different than in person, but I had the motor revved a few times to show the noise.

VIDEO:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qBygCMnFg7M


Problem is my bro took it to a shop down the road TODAY who first said the thermostat is stuck, then tested it, saw it was installed correctly, said there was air in the system, did a half ass job at bleeding the air, then said the freaking head gaskets were installed backwards. ( know, I know, looking for a big buck fix from a sucker). How could they have been installed backwards when it wouldn't get passed 180 degrees in the winter?

This overheating issue was sudden so I am kind of worried about damage to the heads or block since all in all he's nearly 6k into this thing.
 
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M

Macro1

Well-known member
May 14, 2010
116
0
Thanks!

BTW- how do you test with the IR Gun? never done it before.

Is there any other ways to test the water pump?
 
p m

p m

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Well, you know that the thermostat is okay (and installed the right way?), so that's out; so if the engine is hot and radiator and hoses are not as hot, it might be the pump.
 
Jake1996D1

Jake1996D1

Well-known member
Mar 28, 2011
3,363
1
West Des Moines IA
How's the pressure? When you open your radiator top cap and start your truck does coolant flow freely? Not AS likely but you may have a blockage elsewhere. I would recommend a flush and while you're doing it take your water pump off check it out. Make sure your stat is working and put everything back together very carefully. After you do so bleed the system so you're sure you dont have any air. If that doesnt work I cant help you!

I just did this all myself. When you do the flush get some prestone flush and let it run for a while. I bet when pull that lower hose you find some gunk in the bottom of the bucket you empty into.
 
M

Macro1

Well-known member
May 14, 2010
116
0
Not sure it's air... It was blead a few times and heats up way too fast at idle. It will jump to 220 at idle within 8-10 min

Just replaced the water pump. NO fix.

Thermostat was removed and tested in boiling water and proved to be functional.

I am not sure about the direction of the thermostat as my bro removed/tested/installed. I will check that tomorrow.

FWI: dash Gauge reads in the middle, glowshift reads roughly what the OBD2 says. However the obd2 freaks out and jumps from 189 to 220 in a matter of seconds!
 
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M

Macro1

Well-known member
May 14, 2010
116
0
Going over tonight to see if there is coolant in the oil.

What else should I be checking?
 
KyleT

KyleT

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Mar 28, 2007
6,059
8
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Fort Worth, TEXAS
how hard are the hoses? do they get harder when you rev it? i have seen some swell like balloons... kinda scary. normal is slightly firm, but mostly squishy, not like bags of sand.
 
M

Macro1

Well-known member
May 14, 2010
116
0
KyleT said:
how hard are the hoses? do they get harder when you rev it? i have seen some swell like balloons... kinda scary. normal is slightly firm, but mostly squishy, not like bags of sand.
Click to expand...

The hose gets firmer when the vehicle is running.

However, I can barely feel a difference (if any at all) when you rev the engine. BTW: all new hoses.
 
M

Macro1

Well-known member
May 14, 2010
116
0
Ok- after PT's post things make a little more sense.

A few months back the truck started to idle high and make a whine and a separate noise from the top end. I took a video a few minutes ago to capture the noises. Of course it sounds different than in person, but I had the motor reved a few times to show the noise.

VIDEO:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qBygCMnFg7M


Problem is my bro took it to a shop down the road TODAY who first said the thermostat is stuck, then tested it, saw it was installed correctly, said there was air in the system, did a half ass job at bleeding the air, then said the freaking head gaskets were installed backwards. ( know, I know, looking for a big buck fix from a sucker). How could they have been installed backwards when it wouldn't get passed 180 degrees in the winter?

This overheating issue was sudden so I am kind of worried about damage to the heads or block since all in all he's nearly 6k into this thing.

Whats next? How should I have the block or heads tested? What should I look for?


Thanks!
 
M

Macro1

Well-known member
May 14, 2010
116
0
No combustion gases in the coolant. I will check to see if there is coolant in the exhaust.

FWI: there is practically no coolant pressure. It barely goes up when you increase the RPM's. Could it be the head(s)?
 
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