D1 Overheating Issues -- guru knowledge required

At the risk of being banned again, I have a source for new radiators made by a major manufacturer. They fit correctly, but for later model rigs, one must use adapters for the coolers-but, I include the adapters.

Brand new, $440, plus shipping.

I have been making regular donations to the board, not only for parts sold, but also for ny repair work I have gotten as a result of discussions on the board. Mods, I'll be doing some more work next week that came from the board, another check will be on its way.
 
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studio54

Guest
MUSKYMAN said:
d1owner said:
when the radiator on a disco starts to get plugged it often can still cool the engine under most circumstance because it is so large that at even reduced capacity it can still do its job. Add in the extra heat energy of the AC condensor raising the temp of the inbound air across the radiator and the less then optimum radiator can no longer do its job. It then starts to heat up and up and up till you turn off the AC and remove the source of the heat.

this is a known problem...believe it and get a new rad before you cook the engine and warp the heads ect ect

MM

This is so true.

I have seen this on many rigs and cars LR, RR and Toyotas, Peugeot, fiats and others. Heat transfer can be counter intuitive however, as always I must say that I am not standing next to or driving the truck so it is only my pervious experience talking.
 

d1owner

Active member
May 11, 2005
28
0
OK.

So I replaced the broken condenser fan and now I have an even more insidious problem. The temp. gauge seems flaky. With A/C and driving on the highway, the temp goes up. Turn off the A/C and the temp comes down immediately. Turn on the fan (blower) with no A/C and temp goes up. Turn off and temp drop quickly.

I suspect something electrical as a result of the new condenser fan installation and some other electrical diagnostic work that I had done to repair driving lights.

With the car parked at idle (after driving for at least 30 minutes), if I put a load on the electrical system like turning on the lights or pressing and holding the window lift buttons (with windows already closed), the temp gauge needle will rise quickly. When I remove the load it drops. When I do this on initial startup however or even when the car reaches normal operating temp (5 - 10 minutes these days) there are none of the symptoms. It seems to occur after about 30 minutes, perhaps after the cooling temp actually begins to rise. Maybe it sets off certain things.

With all that said, I still do not know if my original cooling system problem has been corrected with the new condenser fan.

I know that many have stated defiantly that I need a new radiator. But, when a condenser fan is not working and I have a cooling issue only when the A/C is operating on hot days in stop/go traffic I figured the first course of action was to replace the fan.

Keep in mind, however, that I have had these issues for quite some time. These problems exhibited themselves probably when I had only 30 - 40 K miles on a new radiator. That is why I have been skeptical about replacing the radiator. Perhaps at this point, after correcting other cooling-relating problems I may in fact need a new radiator.

But I do need to get to the bottom of this cooling/electrical issue first.
 
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D Chapman

Guest
I did not read the whole thread, but do you have an aftermarket temp gauge? I would not trust the OEM gauge.
 

Jake

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
1,994
0
64
Oklahoma City, OK
If it makes you feel better, install a non-electric temp gauge in your system. However, what you have described is a radiator problem. The cooling capacity of it has been compromised by something and the response is higher temps when you load the system with the AC. Bite the bullet and get a new radiator. At the same time clean out the water passages with a good reverse flush and check out the water pump. In the 345 thousand miles my 94 Disco went, the ONLY engine items changed were the radiator water pump and coolant tank. Keep the engine in the normal low side of operating tempratures and you will have it a long time.
 

fnscotsman

Active member
Oct 6, 2004
41
0
Denver, Colorado
I was another non-believer. I had a '94 Disco that overheated on hot days with the AC on. I replaced the Thermostat, water pump, Viscous fan and checked out the electric fans. I pulled the radiator (30 minute job) and took it to a radiator shop. They did a flow test and determined that it was about 50% clogged. They 'rodded' it out, re-painted it and my problem is gone!!!
 
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Qudoba

Guest
Core replacement

If I am able to get off work tomarrow early enough the local radiator shop who does work for our local independant land rover mechanic said he would replace my core for about $100 dollars. I am having the same problem with the AC on and now with the temp close to 100 it is overheating withpout the AC on. IIll post my results on friday and let you know if the problem went away.
 
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Qudoba

Guest
Removed radiator

I removed my radiator yesterday and there was a bunch of debree between the ac radiator and the vehicle radiator. I had a bunch of leaks in my radiator and there will be alot more work required to repair it total price 200$. I explaned to him the problem that I was having with overheating only when the AC was turned on. He told me that the debree between the two radiators was causing that problem. My vehicle only started to overheat last month without the AC this was caused by the leaking tubes.
 
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rmsalt

Guest
D1Owner, I have the same symptoms you have. I have replaced several parts on my D1 and it overheats when the AC is on. I have not done a radiator rodding yet but that's my next step. My D1 runs great with no overheating when AC is off. Turn on AC going 40mph and faster no problem. Come to a stop with AC on and I watch the temp gauge go up. Frustrating. No clear answers yet. By the way, I replaced my condenser fans last summer and it did not change the overheating problem.