A friend of Mine has a set of 21/2 tons for sale....he has had them for years,they are cut to fit a Ford I believe, you can probably pick them up REAL cheap!!! the are in Connecticut. email Me if you need info. B.Bednarz@ew-inc.com
D2 on 35"s?
- Thread starter ChicagoDon
- Start date
I want to keep the D2, i need the interior space and I travel alot too.
After a long talk with the guys at Rovertym and GBR ive picked out my final parts list (for now) and am going to go through with this project. Total build cost will be about $6500. GBR will have some front shafts/cvs coming out in late summer, and if theyre not ready by the time this thing is done then I will just use the stock stuff and keep an extra set of them on hand. I'll keep everyone updated on this once the buildup starts (April)
Suspension Components: (all from Rovertym)
Rovertym 5? Springs
Bilstein 7100 12" Shocks
Front Lower Shock Mount
Rear Spring Retainers
Brake Lines
ABS Lines
Watts Link
Front and Rear Spring Wedges
Adjustable Panhard Rod
Front Radius Arms
Drivetrain Components:
GBR Rear Axleshafts
GBR 4.11 R&P Gears
GBR Rebuilt Front Prop Shaft
GBR Custom Rear Prop Shaft w/ DC joint at Diff End
Detroit Rear Locker
TT Front LSD
Tires:
315/75/r16 BFG MTs
After a long talk with the guys at Rovertym and GBR ive picked out my final parts list (for now) and am going to go through with this project. Total build cost will be about $6500. GBR will have some front shafts/cvs coming out in late summer, and if theyre not ready by the time this thing is done then I will just use the stock stuff and keep an extra set of them on hand. I'll keep everyone updated on this once the buildup starts (April)
Suspension Components: (all from Rovertym)
Rovertym 5? Springs
Bilstein 7100 12" Shocks
Front Lower Shock Mount
Rear Spring Retainers
Brake Lines
ABS Lines
Watts Link
Front and Rear Spring Wedges
Adjustable Panhard Rod
Front Radius Arms
Drivetrain Components:
GBR Rear Axleshafts
GBR 4.11 R&P Gears
GBR Rebuilt Front Prop Shaft
GBR Custom Rear Prop Shaft w/ DC joint at Diff End
Detroit Rear Locker
TT Front LSD
Tires:
315/75/r16 BFG MTs
How many miles you plan on putting on this thing? from your early post, you'll be drivn' all over the place. Load the thing up, take a turn faster than 40mph and your upside down. A couple of other things': 4.11's aren't tall enough to turn tires that big on the highway. I've got 4.56's turning 35's on a heep (v8/dana 60's/arb front/detroit rear/nv4500/dana 300) and it doesn't have the a lot of uumph at highways speeds, and it's doesn't wiegh 6000lbs. The first mountain pass you hit on the highway and you'll drain you gas tank. and speaking of that, you'll be lucky to get 6 to 8 miles per gallon, and I'm mean lucky(down hill with the wind) So plan on lots of stops for go-go juice... as for the drivetrain stuff, GOOD LUCK, I'm running the same set-up except for a TT in the rear and I've broken CV's, and twisted both driveshafts and I'm running 285/75's...When you break near Tucson, give me a call...I help you with any repair...
Mongo
Mongo
Mongo said:
Ive got 255/85/16s (33.6") right now on a 100% stock drivetrain. Im getting some torque converter slip and it really chuggs along. Both of these things kill gas mileage, yet since I do my best to keep my mileage as best it can ive been getting a consistant 11.4mpg city, and 14.6hwy. My current final drive ratio is higher than what 35s with 4.11s will be, and according to a few guys since the gears will make it less dogged down and the torque converter wont slip then I will get that power/mileage back too. I have been told that my mileage wont drop much more than 1mpg that from where it is at now, and depeneding on how everything works together it might remain the same. I have had my truck as it is now on stock gears and 33.6s pull 320 miles out of a tank on 100% hwy travel, which is what it did stock. And yes with 4 people in it and several hundred pounds of bikes and gear it is a pig getting to speed on the highway, but i can deal with it, and as i said before the final drive ratio with the 35s and 4.11s will be lower than how it is now.
Interesting, I never got better than 13mpg on the highway with my truck stock. I get a solid 10mpg right now with the 285/75's with the 4.11's...The 4.11's match up well with the 33's, but still won't give you what you think with 35's. Try and get in touch with Greg Davis, you can reach him over on Pirate and i'm sure he can give some advice about what's worked and what didn't...anyways, Good luck and keep us update on the install...
R
rtiqulatendisco
Guest
I run 35's, locked front and rear. Your heavy duty shit that you plan to buy will not hold up to 35's. I run a dana 60/salisbury in the rear with toyo shit up front. This is a good set up as your cv's will shit the bed like Mark already mentioned and your R&P will break. Mine did with just 32's.
Mongo said:
I run synthetic oils, new air filter every 4000K, Magnaflow muffler with no resonator, new 02 sensors, i regularly clean my MAF, and I just put in new plugs. I also run 10oz Acetone in every full tank. Before I did all of this i was getting about what you got. To do all of this cost me about $400, but ive almost already made that back in savings at the pump.
Same thing Don, I ruan snyth since I got her new, installed new plugs and wires about 2500 miles ago, new muffler about 1k ago and haven't had a resonator on for years...and still only get 10mpg...As for trying to get rover axles to work with 35's, follow the advice of the guys who've tried and those who are running them...your gonna eat up drivetrain parts...
Frank
Frank
I've had 35's on the D2 now for a little over a month. They do fine with the 4.11 gearing. Hey we ain't driving a sports car here. Haven't taken them off road yet...still need to do some trimming. I mainly use 34x9 swampers for my off roading and had those for about three years now with stock cv's.
I have the 3" RTE springs and 1" spacer. I would echo what another said and not go with 5" lift. Just go 3" and trim. You'll have to trim with the 5" anyway.
As far as the rover R&P strength, apparently Ascroft has a "pegging" technique that helps. Anyone with experience with this?
I have the 3" RTE springs and 1" spacer. I would echo what another said and not go with 5" lift. Just go 3" and trim. You'll have to trim with the 5" anyway.
As far as the rover R&P strength, apparently Ascroft has a "pegging" technique that helps. Anyone with experience with this?
D
discokid99
Guest
A
AlanB
Guest
BWAHAAAHHAAAHH!
Yep - bet they do just great. If you don't take them off road. Course you're going to break an axle if you ever do get off the pavement. WTF??? And you swap out to Swampers when you go wheeling?
Sorry to be a dick - but why the F**K would you put 35's on a D2 - just to take the Grocery??
Cheers,
Ted
Ted, glad I could be of some entertainment value to you.
Procomp AT 35 12.5 17. Here are some pics:
http://www.bechange.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=91
Procomp AT 35 12.5 17. Here are some pics:
http://www.bechange.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=91
Aaron, While those big mothers look pretty cool.....they will not serve you well in an offroad situation the way your truck is set-up. The first time you stuff a front tire and try and turn, your tires will smush into the front fenders. The same condition exists on your rear tires as well. Look how close they are just sitting there with no articulation. Surely you have already figured this out even during light wheeling. Get some 33's and call it a day. Just my .05. Nice truck though!
derrickalda said:
hahah you arnt actually serious are you
It seems like almost everyone agrees that 35s will eat away my D2 drivetrain, even with the HD parts. I do not want a D1 or a Series, or a 90. I like my truck, and want to keep it, thats that so I will make this work.
Since it seems that Im not going to be able to pull off 35s on the D2 safely, Im thinking of throwing D1 axles under the truck. The fronts look like they will just bolt on, however im not sure of this. The rear axles would need to be totally re-built. Making the brackets for the rear control arms would be easy, the only hard part that I see happening is modifying the part just to the upper left of the diff where i would have to convert it to work with my watts linkage. For what I could sell my entire d2 axle assembalies including brake parts will be more than enough to buy 2 gutted D1 axle housings with rotors and calipers.
People keep telling me that a Rover based axle can not be made to work well with 35s. Well how about a Toyota based one Im getting really excited over the thoughts of the RoverTracks Toy Conversion with e-Lockers. Keith said that this stuff can handle 35s no problem at all. Throw these in my modified D1 axles, bolt on some new driveshafts and Im golden.
Why am I doing all of this to my D2, because I want to
(and yes i know, i posted this on pirate too)
So it appears that the D1 axles are too short for the wider D2. That wont work
Muskyman has talked some sense into me and hes right that im just spending to spend or so to say. I think im just gonna stick with how the rig is now, get dual ARBs, HD rear shafts, bilstein 7100s, and a good winch. Thanks for saving my wallet Tom
Muskyman has talked some sense into me and hes right that im just spending to spend or so to say. I think im just gonna stick with how the rig is now, get dual ARBs, HD rear shafts, bilstein 7100s, and a good winch. Thanks for saving my wallet Tom