D2 on 35"s?
- Thread starter ChicagoDon
- Start date
ChicagoDon said:hahah you arnt actually serious are you
yeah volvo axles work perfect. im planning on putting a set on my D1 come june or july. its worth checking into....plus you don't have to worry about regearing when they come with 5.** gearing, and vacuum lockers front and rear.....i ain't scurred to do it!......i have no clue about D2's though.....probably too narrow
R
rtiqulatendisco
Guest
Just to clarify, I'm NOT putting 2.5T Rockwells under my rig. I have a pair of Volvo portals sitting on the floor of my garage, and all the stock driveline is gone from my rig. All I'm lacking now is the time to put everything together.
35's (or even large 34's) won't last on a loaded D2 in a no-slip (read Moab) situation. I found out the hard way, and had all of the "HD" components at the time. Stick with 33's or consider different axles. The weight of the D2 is a HUGE factor in all of this.
35's (or even large 34's) won't last on a loaded D2 in a no-slip (read Moab) situation. I found out the hard way, and had all of the "HD" components at the time. Stick with 33's or consider different axles. The weight of the D2 is a HUGE factor in all of this.
D
discokid99
Guest
Greg,
I was wondering what your final setup was? I looked on Pirate and saw all the stuff you were thinking about but I didn't see what the final outcome was.
S-P
I was wondering what your final setup was? I looked on Pirate and saw all the stuff you were thinking about but I didn't see what the final outcome was.
S-P
i think portal axles would be sick under any rover. If i was to dump that much money into a D2 I would just get some unimog or somethin like that portalaxles. Your ground clearance would be insane and you don't have to run a big lift with them.
I think my LR3 would look sick with portal axles
I think my LR3 would look sick with portal axles
<Hijack On> Sean-Paul, it will have Volvo portals w/ 39.5" Irok radials, stock height suspension with enlarged fender openings. Trying to keep it as low as possible.
Current status is on jack-stands in the garage with nothing under it. Hopefully I'll spend some time on it soon, but with two young girls, a wife, and a job where I now travel once a month, time is at a severe premium right now. <Hijack Off>
Current status is on jack-stands in the garage with nothing under it. Hopefully I'll spend some time on it soon, but with two young girls, a wife, and a job where I now travel once a month, time is at a severe premium right now. <Hijack Off>
D
discokid99
Guest
Don,
maybe you could just do a 3in RTE and fit some 35/10.50 SSRs under that boy..thats prob what i would do..just minimal trimming more than likely
maybe you could just do a 3in RTE and fit some 35/10.50 SSRs under that boy..thats prob what i would do..just minimal trimming more than likely
A co worker of mine drives a 95 disco 1 which we have modified to fit mickey thomson
35 by 13.5 on stock wheels, we did a 2 inch body lift, 3inch rte's and front and rear arb's, but only after he fragmented his oe diffs testing the 35's.
he was dumb enough to keep the oe ratio, so trecking requires lots of revs, also he tends to dig himself in trouble. many of us are running 265/75/16 (31's) with trutracks
or open diffs on mudterrain rubber and run better than the disco on 35's.
both on and off road, I have driven the disco on the road and it has become extremaly tipsy (top heavy) and unpredictable. off road , it needs lots of throtle just to keep it moving.
we had to chop about two inches from the tips of his sliders, front and back, his tires rub a lot on his radious arms when he turns, "u" turn are no longer existent unless you have lots of room or time for a 3 to 5 point maneuver. his rear skirts, get damaged by the tires every time the rear axle flexes.
bottom line if you want to out fit your rover with anything bigger than 33,s on a 3 inch lift ,be prepared for a lot of body buthchering after dropping at least a cool nickel on lots of custom work specially on suspension and gearing.
35 by 13.5 on stock wheels, we did a 2 inch body lift, 3inch rte's and front and rear arb's, but only after he fragmented his oe diffs testing the 35's.
he was dumb enough to keep the oe ratio, so trecking requires lots of revs, also he tends to dig himself in trouble. many of us are running 265/75/16 (31's) with trutracks
or open diffs on mudterrain rubber and run better than the disco on 35's.
both on and off road, I have driven the disco on the road and it has become extremaly tipsy (top heavy) and unpredictable. off road , it needs lots of throtle just to keep it moving.
we had to chop about two inches from the tips of his sliders, front and back, his tires rub a lot on his radious arms when he turns, "u" turn are no longer existent unless you have lots of room or time for a 3 to 5 point maneuver. his rear skirts, get damaged by the tires every time the rear axle flexes.
bottom line if you want to out fit your rover with anything bigger than 33,s on a 3 inch lift ,be prepared for a lot of body buthchering after dropping at least a cool nickel on lots of custom work specially on suspension and gearing.
So after realizing that 35s on a rover or D2 based axle is basically impossible to do right so that it wont break when youre beating the shit out of it, I dropped the idea and just thought I'd throw on dual ARBs, GBR 4.11 gears, GBR HD rear shafts, and get my driveshafts re-done. And with this I would just keep my 33s.
Then a few days ago a friend of mine whos a toyota guy started telling me to do a full toy axle swap. He said use FZJ80 axles, and a few others have told me these would work because of their nearly same width and pumpkin location to the D2 axles. So as i began looking into Toy parts it turns out I'll be able to get front and rear FZJ80 complete axle assembalies with new brakes, 4.11 or 4.56 gears, dual e-lockers, longfield CVs and front shafts, and rebuilt driveshafts all for less than it would cost me just for arbs, gears, and rear shafts for the d2 axles. I'll end up with a way more durable setup, and its going to cost me less in the long run. Plus I'll have 6 lugs
Then a few days ago a friend of mine whos a toyota guy started telling me to do a full toy axle swap. He said use FZJ80 axles, and a few others have told me these would work because of their nearly same width and pumpkin location to the D2 axles. So as i began looking into Toy parts it turns out I'll be able to get front and rear FZJ80 complete axle assembalies with new brakes, 4.11 or 4.56 gears, dual e-lockers, longfield CVs and front shafts, and rebuilt driveshafts all for less than it would cost me just for arbs, gears, and rear shafts for the d2 axles. I'll end up with a way more durable setup, and its going to cost me less in the long run. Plus I'll have 6 lugs
SCSL said:
By toy swap into RRCs and DIs do you mean using the rover housings and filling them with toy parts, or putting full toyota axles under the truck?
Also it seems that I can get some superwinch manually locking front hubs for the FZJ80 front axles, with these hubs opened and a locked CDL wouldnt I have 2 wheel drive for crusing on the highway and what not?
You'll still be spinning everything up front except for the hubs if your CDL is locked. If it's open and the hubs unlocked you won't move at all.
Ruppsrover said:You'll still be spinning everything up front except for the hubs if your CDL is locked. If it's open and the hubs unlocked you won't move at all.
Well if they hubs are open and cdl is locked to highway cruising would there be any bad effects on the t-case or would it be just fine?