Dealer says my engine is leaking oil because it is synthetic.. BS?
- Thread starter Jupiter Rover
- Start date
For those of you with GM Products...
Castrol is introducing a new product that apparently (according to Castrol) meets the GM4718M standard. The new product will be marketed as "Castrol Edge 5W-30" and is packaged in a gold colored bottle. No other Castrol USA products meet this general motors requirement. Castrol Syntec and other Castrol products do not meet this GM approval. This is not the same product as the "Castrol SLX Professional 4718" which is marketed in Canada. The official release date for the Castrol Edge product is this coming monday, but it is already in stock at some suppliers. The Castrol help line is apparently not allowed to discuss this product at any length until Monday. But, I just talked to them and after I provided the name of the product they agreed to email me a product data sheet today. I'm sure they will do likewise for anyone else who mentions the new product by name. There are only 11 oil products that meet this approval which is required for a growing number of GM vehicles. Less than half of those are easily available in most parts of the USA & Canada.
Castrol is introducing a new product that apparently (according to Castrol) meets the GM4718M standard. The new product will be marketed as "Castrol Edge 5W-30" and is packaged in a gold colored bottle. No other Castrol USA products meet this general motors requirement. Castrol Syntec and other Castrol products do not meet this GM approval. This is not the same product as the "Castrol SLX Professional 4718" which is marketed in Canada. The official release date for the Castrol Edge product is this coming monday, but it is already in stock at some suppliers. The Castrol help line is apparently not allowed to discuss this product at any length until Monday. But, I just talked to them and after I provided the name of the product they agreed to email me a product data sheet today. I'm sure they will do likewise for anyone else who mentions the new product by name. There are only 11 oil products that meet this approval which is required for a growing number of GM vehicles. Less than half of those are easily available in most parts of the USA & Canada.
Last edited:
OK simple question:
I currently use Castrol 10w-30 Highmilage and change it every 3months/3000miles in my 1995 Defender 90 (stock 3.9L) with 77,000miles. Is Rotella 15w-40 better for my engine?
I currently use Castrol 10w-30 Highmilage and change it every 3months/3000miles in my 1995 Defender 90 (stock 3.9L) with 77,000miles. Is Rotella 15w-40 better for my engine?
Defender Tech said:
Let me point you here, this may answer it.
http://www.discoweb.org/forums/showpost.php?p=649479&postcount=106
Good info! Here is how I understand it:
All 15W-40 oils have the HTHS minimum rating of 3.5
All ACEA A3/B3 oils have a HTHS minimum rating of 3.5
For extreme cold, 15W-40 may be too thick (not viscous enough) and could cause wear at start up. Therefore, a 10W-40 may be a better option for northern areas.
You state the HTHS rating for a Rover V8 (example a EFI 3.9L in my NAS Defender 90 ) must be a minimum of 3.5 Where did you get this spec? Is there a white paper or a publication from Land Rover stating the HTHS requirement for a flat tappet V8 engine?
Also, I researched various oils:
Castrol Syntech The following meet ACEA A3/B3 rating
0W-30, 10W-30, 5W-40, 20W-50
Pennzoil
Conventional oil 10W-40 has HTHS = 3.7
SUV/Truck oil 15W-40 has HTHS = 4.1
Mobil 1
High Mileage 10W-40 meets ACEA A3/B3 and has HTHS = 4.06
Also, is it possible to have a too high rating of HTHS?
Again, thanks for the information...
All 15W-40 oils have the HTHS minimum rating of 3.5
All ACEA A3/B3 oils have a HTHS minimum rating of 3.5
For extreme cold, 15W-40 may be too thick (not viscous enough) and could cause wear at start up. Therefore, a 10W-40 may be a better option for northern areas.
You state the HTHS rating for a Rover V8 (example a EFI 3.9L in my NAS Defender 90 ) must be a minimum of 3.5 Where did you get this spec? Is there a white paper or a publication from Land Rover stating the HTHS requirement for a flat tappet V8 engine?
Also, I researched various oils:
Castrol Syntech The following meet ACEA A3/B3 rating
0W-30, 10W-30, 5W-40, 20W-50
Pennzoil
Conventional oil 10W-40 has HTHS = 3.7
SUV/Truck oil 15W-40 has HTHS = 4.1
Mobil 1
High Mileage 10W-40 meets ACEA A3/B3 and has HTHS = 4.06
Also, is it possible to have a too high rating of HTHS?
Again, thanks for the information...
Defender Tech said:
Yes.
Not so much wear. 10-40 might we acceptable if it meets a min 3.5.
My concern is very cold ambiant temps, the engine might not be able to spin fast enough to start. (Rover Gems and 14cux needs 50 PRM to know its starting)
More a deduction. 3.5 is the magic number the industry picked as suitable of diesel engines. Diesel engines have lots of stress on Cams. So, with the changes in oil formulations, using a oil that can handle "Diesel" cam stress would be a excellent choice for OHV-flat lifter engines like rovers
Too high.... Not that I am aware of, actually. I cant think of having "Too Much" but I'm sure there is a limit somewhere. So far, there isnt one that I can find.
Chris-St Louis said:
What is considered a very cold ambient temp? I want to run 15w40 again but with temps fluttering with lows in single digit to teens I get worried.
A couple of factors decide this.
The engine needs to turn at least 50 RPM for the engine computer to know its starting.
How strong the battery and starter are is a major player. I know people who have been in single digits with 15-40 and it started. I woudl let it run for about a minute before driving off in single digit ambiant with 15-40, but I dont see any problem if the engine starts in that cold.
The engine needs to turn at least 50 RPM for the engine computer to know its starting.
How strong the battery and starter are is a major player. I know people who have been in single digits with 15-40 and it started. I woudl let it run for about a minute before driving off in single digit ambiant with 15-40, but I dont see any problem if the engine starts in that cold.
Chris,
Now that you have explained the ways of the oil world to all of us I have one more question. Can I use the Rotella T 15w-40 if I have been using synthetic all this time? So, basically, can I switch from a syn to a dino? I have always heard no, but I have always heard a lot of things about oil that is apparently not true.
Mike
Now that you have explained the ways of the oil world to all of us I have one more question. Can I use the Rotella T 15w-40 if I have been using synthetic all this time? So, basically, can I switch from a syn to a dino? I have always heard no, but I have always heard a lot of things about oil that is apparently not true.
Mike
Where Chris is speaking from knowledge, I will give some input based on experience. The (conventional) Rotella 15W40 is an amazing product. I have been a mechanic of various sorts for 14 years and was employed by a local auto parts store for six of those. From grocery getters to high horsepower race cars to big truck diesels, the Rotella has proven to be reliable and outstanding in all areas. I'm not up to speed on the different ratings and whatnot but I know the results I've seen. Consequently, I have been using it in my 01 Disco religiously. I may get lambasted for this but I actually use a combination of two different oils. I use a gallon of the Rotella along with two quarts of fully synthetic Mobil 1 5W30. According to some of the oil reps that would stop by the auto parts, using about 25% or so of fully synthetic oil is nearly as good as using all synthetic. So I decided to try to get the best of both worlds. I know some oils don't "mix well"...something to do with eastern and western oils and paraffin or something...but my combo seems to work extremely well. Do I have a small leak? Sure. Am I worried? No. The slow seepage from the front of the drivers side head lets me know that there is still oil in there! Ha Ha. Seriously though, there are more examples than I can recall of how well Rotella performs. Seems like I remember one of the reps talking about the high nickel content in it a time or two that benefits flat-tappet engines. Whatever the reason, it's good stuff. Comments and criticism welcome.
Jupiter Rover said:
I'm sure I will. I was just curious as to whether or not you could. I'm a little pissed I just spent all the money I did on Amsoil and ended getting the wrong shit. Oh well, now I know.
Mike
DiscoTech said:
What amsoil did you get? It may be good stuff if it meets ACEA A3/B3, VW 502 (or what not), and most importantly if it has a HTHS greater than 3.5.
I've been running Mobil One Fully Synthetic since 1989 in various vehicles. I've never had a problem with it. One was a Mustang GT that i drag raced with 225,000 miles on the stock engine. That engine was torn down due to a head gasket. When we looked at the mains, only one has spotted some brass of an area about one half the size of a pencil eraser. Somewhere GM did a test on Mobil 1 back in the early 90's and found it far superior to conventional oil. I would tell you to listen to all of these guys who have ran these oils and choose an oil. Don't listen to the oil companies themselves. They are just making money.
Jupiter Rover said:
The stuff I got isn't all bad. It's got a HTHS rating of 3.2 and meets ACEA A1/A5. So, not to bad I guess, but I hate paying $9 something a quart and finding out I could have gotten better stuff for less.
Mike
DiscoTech said:
Royal purple 15w40 meets most of the specs for a high priced oil. Right now I'm using rotella 5w40, 20$ a gallon and has a HTHS 4.2. I think it runs smoother than the RP.. Next oil change I'm putting RP back in to see.
Amsoil is expensive stuff. But they make great oil. They only have one oil I believe that meets the specs and that is Also a synthetic, European 5w40 is the oil I think.
Yeah, I saw that on there website. But, I tell what, I will be using the cheaper shit form now on. Maybe I can buy some awesome stickers with the money I'll save!
Mike
Mike
DiscoTech said:
Even though rotella is dirt cheap. It is a Great oil, price doesn't always determine quality. Especially in rotella's case.
Chris-St Louis said:
Chris,
What do you think of : Shell Rotella® T Synthetic SAE 5W-40
http://www.shellusserver.com/products/rotella_t_synthetic.php
Thanks
Little skimpy in the ratings department.
API CI-4 PLUS, CI-4, CH-4, CG-4, CF-4, CF
API SL, SJ, SH
API CI-4 PLUS, CI-4, CH-4, CG-4, CF-4, CF
API SL, SJ, SH
Cummins CES 20078, 20076, 20071
No mention of hths Ratings.
http://www.cumminsm11egr.swri.org/
Detroit Diesel 7SE 270
Detroit Diesel 7SE 270 , EO-N, EO-M Plus
Volvo VDS 2 , 20076, 20071
Detroit Diesel 7SE 270
Mack EO-N Premium Plus ’03, EO-N, EO-M Plus
Volvo VDS 2
I woudl say its sheer, from what I can find isnt as good as acea a3/b3
API CI-4 PLUS, CI-4, CH-4, CG-4, CF-4, CF
API SL, SJ, SH
API CI-4 PLUS, CI-4, CH-4, CG-4, CF-4, CF
API SL, SJ, SH
Cummins CES 20078, 20076, 20071
No mention of hths Ratings.
http://www.cumminsm11egr.swri.org/
Detroit Diesel 7SE 270
Detroit Diesel 7SE 270 , EO-N, EO-M Plus
Volvo VDS 2 , 20076, 20071
Detroit Diesel 7SE 270
Mack EO-N Premium Plus ’03, EO-N, EO-M Plus
Volvo VDS 2
I woudl say its sheer, from what I can find isnt as good as acea a3/b3