Maybe I was super-unlucky, but I have NEVER seen "speed bleeder" valves that would NOT allow air to be sucked back into the calipers.
DI Brakes Just Not Good Enough
- Thread starter RBBailey
- Start date
Ditto. Also never had luck with the pneumatic vacuum bleeder that AB sells. And the adapter Motive sells sucks ass.
Power Probe is where it's at. Anodized aluminum MC adapter with plenty of threads to fully engage the MC. I use it with the Motive container. I have a Power Probe MC adapter for my Rover, Honda, and Toyota.
Power Probe is where it's at. Anodized aluminum MC adapter with plenty of threads to fully engage the MC. I use it with the Motive container. I have a Power Probe MC adapter for my Rover, Honda, and Toyota.
If you think this is air you should bleed the master cylinder first. It's almost impossible to push air down stream if its stick up in the master cylinder. The easiest way to get it out is to have someone put light pressure on the pedal and crack open a line on the master. Make sure the pedal guy knows not to release the pedal till you have the line tight.
When you first did your brakes did you have a bunch of surface rust on any of the rotors? Was it hard to push any of the pistons back into the calipers? I've fixed a shit ton of brake fade complaints with new pistons in the calipers. A couple times I couldn't get the pistons out of the caliper. Then I found out how cheap you can get a caliper for these trucks. I'll put 70 bucks worth of pistons and seals in an axle, but last time I checked you can get calipers for around 100.
When you first did your brakes did you have a bunch of surface rust on any of the rotors? Was it hard to push any of the pistons back into the calipers? I've fixed a shit ton of brake fade complaints with new pistons in the calipers. A couple times I couldn't get the pistons out of the caliper. Then I found out how cheap you can get a caliper for these trucks. I'll put 70 bucks worth of pistons and seals in an axle, but last time I checked you can get calipers for around 100.
Given how few people ever have braking performance issues related to degraded brake fluid, I'm going to go with Stew on this one. The fluid is not the problem. I've seen brake fluid boil in a Land Rover one time, and that was a D1 at Wintergreen on a long down hill trail where the driver was in high range and just riding the brakes.
Oh no. We don't work on this old stuff anymore. I would rebuild my own calipers when I'm working on my own truck. You guys are going to have to go find someone else to fuck you out of money.
I loved using the speed bleeders! And I went around the truck twice, not finding any air that second time. I went with the stainless version, and followed the recommendation of a few locals, one who has had them on three trucks for almost ten years without a problem. There are multiple brands, though.
The next bleed, after doing the stainless hoses, will tell, I suppose. I'll bleed the lines before swapping the hoses to catch any existing air. I'll let you know.
The next bleed, after doing the stainless hoses, will tell, I suppose. I'll bleed the lines before swapping the hoses to catch any existing air. I'll let you know.
I had a hard time getting the air out (standard bleeding) when I replaced everything on mine. Before I got all the air out, it didn’t brake well at all. I have never had issues getting air out with any other vehicle. I don’t know why the D1 is so difficult. My wife had to alternate from right to left leg and was less than thrilled as my assistant.
With the NAS D90 calipers and vented discs, new standard D1 rear calipers, middle of the road Bendix brake pads (not too hard, not too soft), stainless hoses, TRW master cylinder, and a lot of effort in bleeding, it stops as well as any SUV I have owned. (I also discovered I didn’t put enough preload on the wheel bearings causing loss of brake pedal sporadically.)
I also have a new TRW servo yet to be installed. As far as fixing things that are not broke, yes, I probably did in a few aspects. However, with 21 year old brake parts going from 9000‘ elevation to 5000’ on a regular basis as well frequently traveling narrow roads with no shoulder and steep drop offs on the sides, the relatively small amount of money spent replacing a few extras was something I wanted to do. Furthermore, it was a lot less time doing it “while I was in there” than taking it apart later due to a failure.
Also, after reading posts here, for a few reasons when the Bendix pads wear out I expect to give the OEM pads a try and see if any improvement is noticeable.
In my previous experiences what I found most important was to avoid really hard pads, for example anything with a lifetime warranty, and really soft pads which were usually the cheapest and “non-metallic” and “quiet” option.
When I was a teen I worked in an old fashioned parts store. When pads were returned it was 90% percent because the “quiet” pads wore out too fast and the ”semi-metallic” pads were noisey. The remaining 10% was due to making the wheels too dirty with dust from the pads.
By the way, the tires my D1 came with were barely worn and looked fine, but were 11 years old. I put new tires on...
The D1 will eventually be my daily driver when I move to the mountain in about 18 months.
It isn’t my daily driver now and I could let it sit while I slowly found time to work on it and figure out the overall best way to address current problems and hopefully prevent future problems.
My daily driver now is a 2017 GMC Canyon 4x4 with a 2.8 diesel. It is great but the D1 is a lot more fun and better on those narrow mountain dirt roads.
With the NAS D90 calipers and vented discs, new standard D1 rear calipers, middle of the road Bendix brake pads (not too hard, not too soft), stainless hoses, TRW master cylinder, and a lot of effort in bleeding, it stops as well as any SUV I have owned. (I also discovered I didn’t put enough preload on the wheel bearings causing loss of brake pedal sporadically.)
I also have a new TRW servo yet to be installed. As far as fixing things that are not broke, yes, I probably did in a few aspects. However, with 21 year old brake parts going from 9000‘ elevation to 5000’ on a regular basis as well frequently traveling narrow roads with no shoulder and steep drop offs on the sides, the relatively small amount of money spent replacing a few extras was something I wanted to do. Furthermore, it was a lot less time doing it “while I was in there” than taking it apart later due to a failure.
Also, after reading posts here, for a few reasons when the Bendix pads wear out I expect to give the OEM pads a try and see if any improvement is noticeable.
In my previous experiences what I found most important was to avoid really hard pads, for example anything with a lifetime warranty, and really soft pads which were usually the cheapest and “non-metallic” and “quiet” option.
When I was a teen I worked in an old fashioned parts store. When pads were returned it was 90% percent because the “quiet” pads wore out too fast and the ”semi-metallic” pads were noisey. The remaining 10% was due to making the wheels too dirty with dust from the pads.
By the way, the tires my D1 came with were barely worn and looked fine, but were 11 years old. I put new tires on...
The D1 will eventually be my daily driver when I move to the mountain in about 18 months.
It isn’t my daily driver now and I could let it sit while I slowly found time to work on it and figure out the overall best way to address current problems and hopefully prevent future problems.
My daily driver now is a 2017 GMC Canyon 4x4 with a 2.8 diesel. It is great but the D1 is a lot more fun and better on those narrow mountain dirt roads.
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It's been replaced in this process, so of course it's not. May as well suggest the sky is blue.
The whole contention there wasn't that it was a problem on this vehicle, but that water does affect brake fluid; despite his repeated denial, and that means something in relation to this vehicle: Water in the brake fluid can seize pistons, and if it was there before, that can be the cause.
The damage may already have been done.
It does more than boil, anyway. It affects things in numerous ways, for numerous reasons. Your fluid breaks down earlier, it can indeed boil, and it can release gas within your fluid over time. This is one reason it's critical to make sure you use the right fluid for your use case and application. Some options are more hygroscopic than others.
It can also be difficult to bleed a master cylinder at times. It's worth working his way down again before he gets to the calipers; just to be sure, but they could probably use a refurbishment anyway.
Cheers,
Kennith
Yep. Cut the hose on the Motive. Install a barbed to female air coupling. Done.
Tooldiscounter.com seemed to have the best price.
Tooldiscounter.com seemed to have the best price.
That seems like a waste of time and fluid since a ton of air is going to be introduced when you swap lines.
Like I said... puzzle palace shit here. What if his uncle grew tits and became his aunt, would that cause this?
I googled puzzle palace and found it is a book and also a slang term to refer to a military headquarters. I have no interest in reading any book now other than my just received 4th edition Vehicle Dependent Expedition Guide. Otherwise, I am apparently not smart enough to understand what “puzzle palace” has to do with this post topic. I can see there is a difference of opinion, however. Perhaps it is time to agree to disagree in the interest of civility?
I do enjoy reading on the theories of what the problem is and have learned a bit about that and more in the process.
I do enjoy reading on the theories of what the problem is and have learned a bit about that and more in the process.
God damn, man. Just take a lesson for once in your life. What you just sad has absolutely nothing to do with what I or anyone else did.
Cheers,
Kennith
This is not a matter of opinion. The diagnostic process only works if the people involved are on the same, accurate page.
Beyond that, it's just sniffing out air or a piston that's not sealing. Water can inform how it happened in the first place, if that issue is present in the calipers, or simply age; which is also related to water, but doesn't mean anything was wrong beyond an extended flush interval.
What's making that unlikely is the fact that it was all changed, and from what I gather became worse after doing so. Doesn't change the fact that a brake problem thread needs accurate water representation. Other people will be viewing this from a diagnostic perspective in the future.
If a misunderstanding of brake fluid issues can be corrected in this environment, it should be corrected.
Cheers,
Kennith
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I figured it would have been uncles growing tits and becoming aunts. Puzzle Palace is the rabbit hole we decided to go down?
What I call a puzzle palace is a place really smart people sit around and figure out all the hypothetical things that could be wrong with something like brakes. All those theories get sold as likely causes and the theories never have to get tested. So nobody ever figures out how stupid and off the wall all this crap is. And nothing ever really gets fixed.
What I call a puzzle palace is a place really smart people sit around and figure out all the hypothetical things that could be wrong with something like brakes. All those theories get sold as likely causes and the theories never have to get tested. So nobody ever figures out how stupid and off the wall all this crap is. And nothing ever really gets fixed.
Stop digging the hole and trying to throw people under a bus. You were wrong again. Deal with it.
If you want to present yourself as an expert, give expert-level advice. At least I stick to what I know.
Cheers,
Kennith