A 1/4 9/16 socket with a 3 inch extension has never giving me an issue. But ifyou are into the song and dance sorta thing feel free to spra/heat/spray/cut/tow to shop
front driveshaft bolts
- Thread starter bigred
- Start date
ptschram
Well-known member
fishEH said:
Because when they are so tight that your open-end wrench spreads and the bolts spins, you'll want to have something on there.
If you are ever in a bind and need some specific hardware quickly go to www.mcmaster.com and type in "screws". Then, go to town. They sell in 5, 10, 15, 25, 50 , 100, etc packs - sometimes certain screws only come in 25, or 5, or 50, etc. But, you can get them and promptly without driving around for hours. I have 3 bins dedicated to fasteners in my garage course and fine all high grade stainless so I can use them in any application.
stocksuspension said:
Ok Mr Rover Tech.
Fact is that process WORKS. I've used it countless times when reefing on a part with a breaker bar got me nowhere and forcing the issue any more would have resulted in a broken bolt. And why the heck would someone need to tow to the shop because they cut the bolts??? Maybe you're used to the sort of people that bring their truck to you for an oil change, IDK?
PT, gotcha on the Vise Grips. Although Vise Grips are always a the last option for me before cutting. At the first sign the open ended wrench starts to slip I would stop. And as much as StockSuspension doesn't like it I would heat and spray with penetrating oil, rap on it with a socket ans hammer and repeat. THEN try the open ended wrench again. Then the Vise Grips. Then cut the bolts; but then you'd have to have your truck towed to a shop because we're all to dumb to figure out how to replace the captive bolts. Derrrr.....:banghead:
Tugela, try that special tool on the axle side first. You should be able to get those without too much trouble. You can put the truck on jackstands or push the truck back and forth to rotate the top bolts to the bottom. When rotating the DS it will change the socket approach angles and the amount of space available to get in there. Once the axle side is off you can put the TC in Neutral and move the DS up, down, left, right, to gain better access to the remaining bolts.
ptschram
Well-known member
fishEH said:Ok Mr Rover Tech.
Fact is that process WORKS. I've used it countless times when reefing on a part with a breaker bar got me nowhere and forcing the issue any more would have resulted in a broken bolt. And why the heck would someone need to tow to the shop because they cut the bolts??? Maybe you're used to the sort of people that bring their truck to you for an oil change, IDK?
PT, gotcha on the Vise Grips. Although Vise Grips are always a the last option for me before cutting. At the first sign the open ended wrench starts to slip I would stop. And as much as StockSuspension doesn't like it I would heat and spray with penetrating oil, rap on it with a socket ans hammer and repeat. THEN try the open ended wrench again. Then the Vise Grips. Then cut the bolts; but then you'd have to have your truck towed to a shop because we're all to dumb to figure out how to replace the captive bolts. Derrrr.....:banghead:
Tugela, try that special tool on the axle side first. You should be able to get those without too much trouble. You can put the truck on jackstands or push the truck back and forth to rotate the top bolts to the bottom. When rotating the DS it will change the socket approach angles and the amount of space available to get in there. Once the axle side is off you can put the TC in Neutral and move the DS up, down, left, right, to gain better access to the remaining bolts.
It's unfortunate that stocksuspension had to show up and show off his monitor muscles right out of the gate. He's made many friends here, I'm sure.
I have tools that were purpose-built for this job after too many instances of dealing with hardware that had spent WAY too long exposed to Indiana's generous use of salt on the road. After having broken AFIRover's special built tool I had to make another. Using an impact socket, chuck it up in your lathe and turn it down to where there's just barely enough meat on the walls and then, turn down the other end so you can clear the yoke-Voila!
When removing the front driveshaft, I try to start at the axle end as it allows for more access to the transfer case end. One note-chock the wheels, it can be a shock when you get the last bolt out and the truck rolls away from you.
Tugela,
FishEh is right. I put myself in the same jam as you are. When I was about to pack it in he stopped by and gave me a hand.
I had PB'ed the crap out of it, heated it, PB'ed it again and let it sit. The one thing I learned from FishEH is that you should heat, then PB right away, heat, and more PB right away and it works like a champ. The PB must suck into the openings as the surface cools.
PB seems to be purpose build for situations a disco may throw at you, and I would guess may work better than a LR tool if things are jammed up.
For the record I crapped up a captive bolt on the TC side of the front and rear Drive Shafts. I found the correct bolts, but I took the quick way out and installed the in reverse. The funny thing about the bolts is that the dealer did not stock any so it would have been a (3) day wait and I would have to order a box of (25). Even though I may suck at getting crapped up bolts out I dont think I would need the (25) that they were going to shove down my throat.
I found out from the LR parts guy that the techs "rarely" do DS rebuilds so they dont need the bolts.....What ever......
I would strongly suggest not packing it in, patience, PB and a little properly applied power will get you where you need to be.
PT and FishEH are correct.
FishEh is right. I put myself in the same jam as you are. When I was about to pack it in he stopped by and gave me a hand.
I had PB'ed the crap out of it, heated it, PB'ed it again and let it sit. The one thing I learned from FishEH is that you should heat, then PB right away, heat, and more PB right away and it works like a champ. The PB must suck into the openings as the surface cools.
PB seems to be purpose build for situations a disco may throw at you, and I would guess may work better than a LR tool if things are jammed up.
For the record I crapped up a captive bolt on the TC side of the front and rear Drive Shafts. I found the correct bolts, but I took the quick way out and installed the in reverse. The funny thing about the bolts is that the dealer did not stock any so it would have been a (3) day wait and I would have to order a box of (25). Even though I may suck at getting crapped up bolts out I dont think I would need the (25) that they were going to shove down my throat.
I found out from the LR parts guy that the techs "rarely" do DS rebuilds so they dont need the bolts.....What ever......
I would strongly suggest not packing it in, patience, PB and a little properly applied power will get you where you need to be.
PT and FishEH are correct.
fishEH said:Ok Mr Rover Tech.
Fact is that process WORKS. I've used it countless times when reefing on a part with a breaker bar got me nowhere and forcing the issue any more would have resulted in a broken bolt. And why the heck would someone need to tow to the shop because they cut the bolts??? Maybe you're used to the sort of people that bring their truck to you for an oil change, IDK?
PT, gotcha on the Vise Grips. Although Vise Grips are always a the last option for me before cutting. At the first sign the open ended wrench starts to slip I would stop. And as much as StockSuspension doesn't like it I would heat and spray with penetrating oil, rap on it with a socket ans hammer and repeat. THEN try the open ended wrench again. Then the Vise Grips. Then cut the bolts; but then you'd have to have your truck towed to a shop because we're all to dumb to figure out how to replace the captive bolts. Derrrr.....:banghead:
Tugela, try that special tool on the axle side first. You should be able to get those without too much trouble. You can put the truck on jackstands or push the truck back and forth to rotate the top bolts to the bottom. When rotating the DS it will change the socket approach angles and the amount of space available to get in there. Once the axle side is off you can put the TC in Neutral and move the DS up, down, left, right, to gain better access to the remaining bolts.
So I went looking for bolts today and couldn't find any that were the same as the stock bolts. I could only find 1" & 1-1/4" 3/8-24. All of those were full thread bolts as well. A local drive line shop here said they could be used but he recommended going with the original design that has a shoulder on it because it would fit better and not have play in it like the full threaded bolts would. Will 1-1/4" bolts work or will they hit on the diff case?
I ordered my bolts from these guys:
http://www.tacomascrew.com
They sold me the exact number of the exact kind of Grade 8 hardware I needed and shipped it to me. I don't remember the total cost but it was in the single digits of dollars.
http://www.tacomascrew.com
They sold me the exact number of the exact kind of Grade 8 hardware I needed and shipped it to me. I don't remember the total cost but it was in the single digits of dollars.
ptschram
Well-known member
You have a few options.Roverfire said:
1) Get the fully threaded 1 1/8" from McMaster. $14.40 for 5, ouch!
2) Get the fully threaded 1 1/4" from McMaster $11.18 for 25, I used these with no problems.
3) Get the partially threaded 1 1/2" from McMaster and cut 3/8" off the threads to get it down to 1 1/8".
I would(and did) go with option 2. Its the most economical and as PT mentioned it really won't make a difference fully vs partially threaded.
Don't for get a bag of Grade 8 Nylocks!
fishEH said:
I did the same and also swapped out the bolts on the transfer case flanges while changing the seal. Makes it nice to have clean threads on all of the bolts
Unless you use one of these sockets that can be had from several sources. (believe someone mentioned this earlier)
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/DA1065.cfm
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/DA1065.cfm
I stand by two 6pt box ends. I have ratcheting box ends and they don't fit. Use two open ends and you risk rounding the nut/bolt. I have the fancy socket but never use it.
Tugela said:
I had one nyloc nut that got rounded off a while back. I ended up taking a dremel cut of wheel to it. In the process I ended up cutting into the threads of the bolt.
I ended up pulling the flange off the transfer case, replacing the bolt and put it all back.
IT was a PIA, but looking back I should have gone ahead and pulled the flange and DS as one piece and cut off the nut on a work bench instead of under the truck!
Um so much being said about 4 simple nuts. If they don't come off then split them, they're soft. Use a nut splitter if you can get one in, or a hammer and cold chisel. Another option is to fasten the nuts until the bolts turn off, it usually does not take much.
A 3/8" socket fits in there perfectly, rotate the shaft so that the nuts you want to reach are at the bottom.
A 3/8" socket fits in there perfectly, rotate the shaft so that the nuts you want to reach are at the bottom.
Last edited: