A 1/4 9/16 socket with a 3 inch extension has never giving me an issue. But ifyou are into the song and dance sorta thing feel free to spra/heat/spray/cut/tow to shop
fishEH said:Why Vise Grips? One side has captive bolts that shouldn't spin. The other end has exposed bolt heads you can get a 14 or 9/16" wrench on.
stocksuspension said:A 1/4 9/16 socket with a 3 inch extension has never giving me an issue. But ifyou are into the song and dance sorta thing feel free to spra/heat/spray/cut/tow to shop
fishEH said:Ok Mr Rover Tech.
Fact is that process WORKS. I've used it countless times when reefing on a part with a breaker bar got me nowhere and forcing the issue any more would have resulted in a broken bolt. And why the heck would someone need to tow to the shop because they cut the bolts??? Maybe you're used to the sort of people that bring their truck to you for an oil change, IDK?
PT, gotcha on the Vise Grips. Although Vise Grips are always a the last option for me before cutting. At the first sign the open ended wrench starts to slip I would stop. And as much as StockSuspension doesn't like it I would heat and spray with penetrating oil, rap on it with a socket ans hammer and repeat. THEN try the open ended wrench again. Then the Vise Grips. Then cut the bolts; but then you'd have to have your truck towed to a shop because we're all to dumb to figure out how to replace the captive bolts. Derrrr.....:banghead:
Tugela, try that special tool on the axle side first. You should be able to get those without too much trouble. You can put the truck on jackstands or push the truck back and forth to rotate the top bolts to the bottom. When rotating the DS it will change the socket approach angles and the amount of space available to get in there. Once the axle side is off you can put the TC in Neutral and move the DS up, down, left, right, to gain better access to the remaining bolts.
ptschram said:It's unfortunate that stocksuspension had to show up and show off his monitor muscles right out of the gate. He's made many friends here, I'm sure.
I have tools that were purpose-built for this job after too many instances of dealing with hardware that had spent WAY too long exposed to Indiana's generous use of salt on the road. After having broken AFIRover's special built tool I had to make another. Using an impact socket, chuck it up in your lathe and turn it down to where there's just barely enough meat on the walls and then, turn down the other end so you can clear the yoke-Voila!
When removing the front driveshaft, I try to start at the axle end as it allows for more access to the transfer case end. One note-chock the wheels, it can be a shock when you get the last bolt out and the truck rolls away from you.
fishEH said:Ok Mr Rover Tech.
Fact is that process WORKS. I've used it countless times when reefing on a part with a breaker bar got me nowhere and forcing the issue any more would have resulted in a broken bolt. And why the heck would someone need to tow to the shop because they cut the bolts??? Maybe you're used to the sort of people that bring their truck to you for an oil change, IDK?
PT, gotcha on the Vise Grips. Although Vise Grips are always a the last option for me before cutting. At the first sign the open ended wrench starts to slip I would stop. And as much as StockSuspension doesn't like it I would heat and spray with penetrating oil, rap on it with a socket ans hammer and repeat. THEN try the open ended wrench again. Then the Vise Grips. Then cut the bolts; but then you'd have to have your truck towed to a shop because we're all to dumb to figure out how to replace the captive bolts. Derrrr.....:banghead:
Tugela, try that special tool on the axle side first. You should be able to get those without too much trouble. You can put the truck on jackstands or push the truck back and forth to rotate the top bolts to the bottom. When rotating the DS it will change the socket approach angles and the amount of space available to get in there. Once the axle side is off you can put the TC in Neutral and move the DS up, down, left, right, to gain better access to the remaining bolts.
You have a few options.Roverfire said:So I went looking for bolts today and couldn't find any that were the same as the stock bolts. I could only find 1" & 1-1/4" 3/8-24. All of those were full thread bolts as well. A local drive line shop here said they could be used but he recommended going with the original design that has a shoulder on it because it would fit better and not have play in it like the full threaded bolts would. Will 1-1/4" bolts work or will they hit on the diff case?
fishEH said:You have a few options.
1) Get the fully threaded 1 1/8" from McMaster. $14.40 for 5, ouch!
2) Get the fully threaded 1 1/4" from McMaster $11.18 for 25, I used these with no problems.
3) Get the partially threaded 1 1/2" from McMaster and cut 3/8" off the threads to get it down to 1 1/8".
I would(and did) go with option 2. Its the most economical and as PT mentioned it really won't make a difference fully vs partially threaded.
Don't for get a bag of Grade 8 Nylocks!
Tugela said:This is a good suggestion, and while there is nothing quite like the satisfaction of destroying something deliberately when it won't cooperate, I lack the tools for this solution.
K-rover said:I had one nyloc nut that got rounded off a while back. I ended up taking a dremel cut of wheel to it. In the process I ended up cutting into the threads of the bolt.
I ended up pulling the flange off the transfer case, replacing the bolt and put it all back.
IT was a PIA, but looking back I should have gone ahead and pulled the flange and DS as one piece and cut off the nut on a work bench instead of under the truck!
jafir said:How would you get the flange off with the drive shaft still bolted to it?