Hydraulic bump stops on a D2

nickb857

Well-known member
Apr 21, 2004
1,371
0
33
Las Vegas
You prefer that to welding the cans on the frame and using the bump stops on the radius arms?

Doesn’t seem like much of a bolt on kit any more.
 

fishEH

Well-known member
Jan 26, 2009
6,378
14
Lake Villa, IL
I think all those cuts opens up right to the cabin. A lot of the Defender suspension parts aren't a bolt on fit for D1/D2. Bolt holes may line up but the body is always in the way.
Hope you like welding sheet metal. What's your aversion to using the radius arms as landing pads for the bumpstops again? I'd rather weld onto the frame than have all kinds of protrusions into the cabin.
 

Jeff Blake

Well-known member
May 6, 2016
384
7
Pacific Beach, San Diego
There’s actually another panel on part of the wheel well on the inside of the cabin, which should allow for no protrusions into the cabin. I’ll find out tomorrow, broke my Dremel mandrel while cutting into it today

As for the radius mount bump, I don’t really have a good reason, it just doesn’t feel as right/optimal due to the angle, so far forward, added stress on radius bushings, and all the extra welding involved- likely cutting into the frame, not just welding to it
 

lunchbox

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
1,764
6
45
St Louis, MO
Should have welded cans to the frame and hit the radius arms. It’s interesting when someone asks a question on here, gets a definitive reply of what works without question, then goes another route. I’m not the first person to put bumpstops on my arms. It’s real common on buggies, trophy trucks, ultra 4 trucks, etc... Bail on your idea before it’s too late. Get some cans, and have them welded on.
 

Jeff Blake

Well-known member
May 6, 2016
384
7
Pacific Beach, San Diego
I have no science or experience to back this up, but isn't that a whole lot of extra stress on the radius arm bushings? Rubber or poly. Speaking of, my rear radius arm bushings are not in good shape, couple splits in the rubber... those are not fun to replace
 

Jeff Blake

Well-known member
May 6, 2016
384
7
Pacific Beach, San Diego
My welder, who races and does work for a lot of high speed desert racing stuff (Baja 1000, King of the hammers, etc), took a look at it and recommended I go with the kit and put them inside the spring. The radius arm wouldn't be as ideal of a spot, and I couldn't fit a 4" travel bump if welding it into the frame on the inside of the bump stop mount.

I'm not going to do the cut pictured above.. what I can do instead is cut a square hole out of the body floor, put the mount in, and then screw in a plate (with a hole drilled in the middle for the tube to protrude out of) to seal it up. Shouldn't require any welding, nor cutting of the wheel well. End result is about 3" of a 2" diameter tube sticking into the cabin. Seats and carpet are already gone, so not a big deal for me

For the bottom mount, apparently the D2 spring seat on the axle is not as wide as the D1/90, and I need more surface area to mount the relocation dish, so what I did was cut the top and bottom plate off one of a Terrafirma 2" spacer that I no longer use, and welded that plate to the spring seat on the axle, retaining the original two holes, acting like a permanent 1/4" spacer

I'm also mulling over the mega sport shock bracket pictured above, which would let me raise the lower mount on the axle, and regain the travel up top. But that'll come later, if it ever does
 
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SGaynor

Well-known member
Callsign: KN4KFS
Dec 6, 2006
5,864
11
48
Bristol, TN
I'm not going to do the cut pictured above.. what I can do instead is cut a square hole out of the body floor, put the mount in, and then screw in a plate (with a hole drilled in the middle for the tube to protrude out of) to seal it up. Shouldn't require any welding, nor cutting of the wheel well. End result is about 3" of a 2" diameter tube sticking into the cabin. Seats and carpet are already gone, so not a big deal for me
That'll be awesome. 🙄
 

Jeff Blake

Well-known member
May 6, 2016
384
7
Pacific Beach, San Diego
^ Not doing it that way. I have no idea why he cut a hole in the side, it wasn't necessary


Got one hole mostly done. Test fitted good. No cutting in the wheel well was needed, just the hole in the floor, about 5x5". The body is flat there, no ribs, so it will seal nicely and easily with a plate and some silicone
 

Jeff Blake

Well-known member
May 6, 2016
384
7
Pacific Beach, San Diego
Gettin' there

Color combination is a little silly, but whatever

Only welding needed is this plate to the spring perch.

56764

56762


Still need to make a plate and seal this up. It's a little more complicated because there are two body skins, so gotta seal that, plus seal the cabin.

56763

Sealing would be really simple if the darn lower bolt for the pinch can didn't intersect the body. But it does... thought about making a spacer to raise the pinch can 1/2" higher, but didn't want to go through the trouble. I'll just blast it with sealant