The Prothanes are too stiff, I ran them for a while and they were binding and not allowing any flex. The GBR7100BK are a much better option. But only run them on top, use the heims on the bottom. Running them on top keeps the shocks aligned and stops the hoses from getting in the way or rubbing and chafing. I am not a fan of heims but they allow way more flex on the bottom and that seems to be where the most action is.400/100 isn't a standard option. I think I'll go with 360/80
For mounting, I found Prothane 19-920 to replace the heims. What is the adapter for the front bottom, and what are my options other than RTE for longer front towers?
I did the same with the Fox shocks. Running bushings top and heims on the bottom. The fox shocks require trimming of the rear upper mount to make them fit. Bils do not.If you are going for flex, the pin mount shocks I have used broke the pins. I have a friend who even switched from Bils to Fox because he broke off the bottom eye type shock mount too many times, the fox are a beefier mounting system. But the SB option on the Bils is very appealing.
Run the GBR bushes on the tops all around for the Bils and heims on the bottom.
I just use RTE eye to eye shock mount adapters where needed, but I am a D1, those parts are very simple and hard for anyone to mess up.
A tape measure, pen, and paper let you dial it in as well.I did the same with the Fox shocks. Running bushings top and heims on the bottom. The fox shocks require trimming of the rear upper mount to make them fit. Bils do not.
RTE front lower shock mounts
And as much of a PIA as it was to deal with RTE. Having adjustable towers lets you dial in your travel.
I totally agree, and that is what I did when I ordered my shocks. I made sure at ride height I had equal up/down travel. Once I got everything on and started driving the truck more, I realized I wanted more down travel than up.A tape measure, pen, and paper let you dial it in as well.