Hydraulic bump stops on a D2

nickb857

Well-known member
Apr 21, 2004
1,373
1
34
Las Vegas
Could take the springs out, cycle the suspension for the best measurements, then position your bump stops accordingly.
 

CORover

Well-known member
Jun 11, 2007
494
13
Colorado, USA
I talked to a bunch of people and the Bils sweet spot valving seemed to be 400/100. Mine are lighter than that but I do have a 400/100 valve kit to install if I rebuild mine again. I just talked to local guy that even went 400/200 on a fully built classic, he said it rides great. Different situation to yours though.

Do the zip tie test for sure though, really helps to see real world travel info. The Bils come with a large rubber O-ring that is for that very reason but they don't last long, mine are out on the trail somewhere...
 

Jeff Blake

Well-known member
May 6, 2016
403
11
Pacific Beach, San Diego
400/100 isn't a standard option. I think I'll go with 360/80

For mounting, I found Prothane 19-920 to replace the heims. What is the adapter for the front bottom, and what are my options other than RTE for longer front towers?
 

CORover

Well-known member
Jun 11, 2007
494
13
Colorado, USA
400/100 isn't a standard option. I think I'll go with 360/80

For mounting, I found Prothane 19-920 to replace the heims. What is the adapter for the front bottom, and what are my options other than RTE for longer front towers?
The Prothanes are too stiff, I ran them for a while and they were binding and not allowing any flex. The GBR7100BK are a much better option. But only run them on top, use the heims on the bottom. Running them on top keeps the shocks aligned and stops the hoses from getting in the way or rubbing and chafing. I am not a fan of heims but they allow way more flex on the bottom and that seems to be where the most action is.

You should cycle test your set up, you will get way less action from the front than the rear. I am getting more than most and I am just running TF skeleton towers in front with 12 inch travel shocks and it is more than enough.
 

Jeff Blake

Well-known member
May 6, 2016
403
11
Pacific Beach, San Diego
Thanks for the tips. Makes sense on the flex, I wonder if there's a benefit in changing the top mount to a pin? I'll hold off on the bils until after my trip because I don't have much time to sort this out properly. The TF's are doing alright for now, although that blue dish in the rear tore apart the plastic guard - clearance is too tight.. I think the bils are skinnier so that should fix that.

Rear - Bils 7100 12" SB remote
So rear top: GBR7100BK
Rear bottom: ream out hole to 1/2", cut off nut, use 1/2" bolt
Then do whatever I have to (limit straps, adjust bumps) to get these to work properly

Front - Bils 7100 10 or 12 SB remote
Tower: Keep my TF skeleton, as it can't flex enough anyway?
Front top mount: ?
Front bottom mount: ?
 

CORover

Well-known member
Jun 11, 2007
494
13
Colorado, USA
If you are going for flex, the pin mount shocks I have used broke the pins. I have a friend who even switched from Bils to Fox because he broke off the bottom eye type shock mount too many times, the fox are a beefier mounting system. But the SB option on the Bils is very appealing.

Run the GBR bushes on the tops all around for the Bils and heims on the bottom.

I just use RTE eye to eye shock mount adapters where needed, but I am a D1, those parts are very simple and hard for anyone to mess up.
 

K-rover

Well-known member
Jan 15, 2010
1,965
13
Raleigh, NC
If you are going for flex, the pin mount shocks I have used broke the pins. I have a friend who even switched from Bils to Fox because he broke off the bottom eye type shock mount too many times, the fox are a beefier mounting system. But the SB option on the Bils is very appealing.

Run the GBR bushes on the tops all around for the Bils and heims on the bottom.

I just use RTE eye to eye shock mount adapters where needed, but I am a D1, those parts are very simple and hard for anyone to mess up.
I did the same with the Fox shocks. Running bushings top and heims on the bottom. The fox shocks require trimming of the rear upper mount to make them fit. Bils do not.
RTE front lower shock mounts
And as much of a PIA as it was to deal with RTE. Having adjustable towers lets you dial in your travel.
 

K-rover

Well-known member
Jan 15, 2010
1,965
13
Raleigh, NC
This is fully stuffed. You can see it sitting on the bump stops. Dont mind the mud :) this was during a muddy weekend trip.
56794
 

fishEH

Well-known member
Jan 26, 2009
6,403
23
Lake Villa, IL
I did the same with the Fox shocks. Running bushings top and heims on the bottom. The fox shocks require trimming of the rear upper mount to make them fit. Bils do not.
RTE front lower shock mounts
And as much of a PIA as it was to deal with RTE. Having adjustable towers lets you dial in your travel.
A tape measure, pen, and paper let you dial it in as well.
 

K-rover

Well-known member
Jan 15, 2010
1,965
13
Raleigh, NC
A tape measure, pen, and paper let you dial it in as well.
I totally agree, and that is what I did when I ordered my shocks. I made sure at ride height I had equal up/down travel. Once I got everything on and started driving the truck more, I realized I wanted more down travel than up.
So that was an easy adjustment and now its exactly where I want it. If one day I decide I want more uptravel its as easy as just moving the mount up one hole.