Hydraulic bump stops on a D2

K-rover

Well-known member
Jan 15, 2010
2,029
23
Raleigh, NC
I guess my thoughts are go with quality shocks that you can custom valve first then add hydro bumps if needed.
My fox shocks with the foam bumpstops work great. Granted I dont jump or do highspeed stuff. I literally just got home from a weekend camping trip where the fire roads where in horrible shape. I was still able to maintain speed and keep a comfortable ride (relatively) and if I did hit a deep pothole it wasnt bad at all. Its your truck and your money. I just figured you already had some decent shocks on there.
 

Jeff Blake

Well-known member
May 6, 2016
404
14
Pacific Beach, San Diego
I guess my thoughts are go with quality shocks that you can custom valve first then add hydro bumps if needed.
My fox shocks with the foam bumpstops work great. Granted I dont jump or do highspeed stuff. I literally just got home from a weekend camping trip where the fire roads where in horrible shape. I was still able to maintain speed and keep a comfortable ride (relatively) and if I did hit a deep pothole it wasnt bad at all. Its your truck and your money. I just figured you already had some decent shocks on there.
Yes, thanks that's a good point. Shocks are on the list for sure... but springs were first, which let to the bumps. I'm pretty certain I can benefit from the hydro bumps regardless if I had expensive valved Fox shocks or not, and I don't mind the hole in the floor, so I went for it. Still deciding on what to do shock wise, ideally I'd like to raise the lower mount and raise the upper mount, but the upper mount can't be raised without going into the body again.. and I don't think I'm up for another body penetration, and the cons outweigh the pros of raising just the lower mount (travel vs ground clearance).
 

Jeff Blake

Well-known member
May 6, 2016
404
14
Pacific Beach, San Diego
Yeah I'd like to do that too, just wish there was space to put the upper mount higher as well

Getting closer. Very time consuming job when you factor in all the little bits and bobs. Been at it now 3 full days, 1 to go.

Aluminum plate is secured to the floor with rivet nuts and 3m 4200 marine sealant. Used Jbweld quiksteel putty to seal the two body panels together

Still have to seal the place where the bolts meet the wheel well. Honestly... probably a couple pieces of duct tape for that, we'll see.

56774
 

Jeff Blake

Well-known member
May 6, 2016
404
14
Pacific Beach, San Diego
For shocks I'm looking at the Fox 2.0 Reservoir or reservoir adjustable, as it has an extra inch of travel over the Fox 2.0's for a given collapsed/extended length. Is adjustable worth it? Any issues fitting the reservoirs?

If I was crazy enough to raise the upper mount, can the radius arms realistically handle that extra flex? Springs (360 lbs) could be a limiting factor as well? Clearances are good, and I don't think the panhard will limit me at all.

For the fronts I could have my welder modify the terrafirma towers with a raised eyelet? I haven't seen any raised towers for the D2, only the D1
 

K-rover

Well-known member
Jan 15, 2010
2,029
23
Raleigh, NC
Might as well get the remote reservoir while you're at it. I get by fine with the emulsions, but again I don't do highspeed stuff.

No, radius arms will always be your limiting factor.

RTE shock towers work on a D2. I had to cut 3" out of mine and reweld them just so i had adjustability both ways. Worth it though so you can dial in your travel
 

Jeff Blake

Well-known member
May 6, 2016
404
14
Pacific Beach, San Diego
"handle" or "allow"? They dont allow nearly the flex you could achieve without them
Allow is the right word

I'll have to check my ride height, but 10" shocks is probably right, maaybe 11". Definitely 10 if the lower mount is raised, or using non-reservoirs. my question is, if I managed to raise the upper mount, 14" shocks could be put in, but would the radius arms let me use that extra travel?
 

Jeff Blake

Well-known member
May 6, 2016
404
14
Pacific Beach, San Diego
Got her back on the ground... my travel is now 1"! Woo hooo...

56775

Panhard bracket has got to move...

Should I buy a new bracket? or re-use? I think if it's moved over an inch, and tilted more perpendicular to the ground, It'll be good.
 

Jeff Blake

Well-known member
May 6, 2016
404
14
Pacific Beach, San Diego
Here's some pics of everything buttoned up

Pretty happy with the way it turned out. Doesn't stick into the cab too far at all, and having the bumps in the spring is a better spot than the radius arms. Bumps sit about 2" above the axle with the spacers put in, so 6" before they bottom out. 10" TF Shocks will only allow 5" of uptravel, so I think the Bilstein short bodies are going to be the best for maximum up and down travel. How do they stack up against the Fox's? I can always make custom sized spacers for the bumps once I dial in my clearances and choose a shock

I cut the bottom hole off the panhard frame bracket for now until I'm able to relocate it.

Also put in +4" Goodridge lines in the rear to replace my Atlantic British +2"... but turns out they're the same length :unsure:. For longer ones I only know of the Roverware Goodridge +10", but that's too much

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Jeff Blake

Well-known member
May 6, 2016
404
14
Pacific Beach, San Diego
Did a test run on the bumps.. they're amazing. On forest roads I used to have to crawl under 5mph on, I can now rip along at 15 easy. Big dips are a piece of cake at speed. They do however make an annoying thump all the time. I've heard it described elsewhere as a 'tap'... nope.. definitely a thump.

That said, it looks like I'm using a maximum of 3" travel on the bumps, out of a possible 4. I measured this by looking at where the o-ring is, and adding the gap between o-ring and bump stop body + gap between axle and bump stop. Total of 4.5" up travel. I'm pretty sure I'm bottoming out the shocks, as I see no other clearance issues or heard any noises. The shocks are 16" collapsed, and they sit at 21.5" at ride height. I'm no geometry wizard, but I'm guessing due to the angle of the shocks, they are using up the 5.5" and bottoming out.

Bilstein 12" short bodies, or Fox 10" won't help, because they have the same, or longer, collapsed length.

Any suggestions on what to do?
 

Jeff Blake

Well-known member
May 6, 2016
404
14
Pacific Beach, San Diego
Interesting. I have less up travel than you and I dont bottom out my shocks.
Well you have shaft stops, so you can't bottom out?

It might be the coils? They're super heavy duty, maybe they just don't want to compress that much on a big bump.

The price point and specs on the 12" short bodies fits my needs the best, I think. I'm going to just get rears for now, as Im heading on a 10 day trip in the Sierra's this friday. Might put my poly stops back in too, as a safeguard. For valving, I'm thinking of going lighter, because I have the hydro bumps. What about 255/70?

56789
 

K-rover

Well-known member
Jan 15, 2010
2,029
23
Raleigh, NC
I can still bottom out if I hit hard enough. Ive used the the ziptie method to see how much travel I use. Daily driving I only use about 1" rough roads about 2.5" If I hit a pot hole It will just barely touch the bumps. Offroad I use all of it. I think a lot of it is the valving of the shocks.
 
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