Just bought my first Land Rover....

drew_lewis

drew_lewis

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Dec 7, 2015
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UPDATE #2

I just wanted to let you guys know that I bought a used transmission with only 100k and swapped the TCM from mine and placed it in the "new" transmission. I also purchased an iCarsoft diag. tool and found that my rear lock motor is non-functioning. I'll be pulling it this weekend to try and salvage it. Thanks for all the help on this guys.





UPDATE: The intermittent no-start situation was due to a defective fuel relay. All of the lights on the dash were due to the brake switch.

(I'm a Land Rover newb, but I have intermediate automotive knowledge.)

So, I just purchased my first Land Rover. It's a 2005 LR3 SE with 4.4L. Right after I got 10 miles from the dealership, the suspension light, hazard light with arrows around it, abs and brake light all light up amber. I pull over, shut the thing off and back on. Same thing, the suspension will not raise either. I get back on the freeway and then the check engine light comes on. I pull back over, turn the car off and back on. Still have all of the same lights illuminated.

I manage to get it to an autozone to have them pull the codes and there is only a single code P0741 TCCM Stuck off. I have no clue what that is, so I drive home and park it on our inclined driveway. I go back out about 3 hours later and there's water leaking from the rear of the passenger side door....The floor is SOAKED....I've researched and found out about the sunroof drain issue and believe that to be the problem for all of the water in the carpet and padding....I believe I've managed to dry everything out....pulled as many seats as I could and rented 2 airmovers...

I disconnected the battery and reconnected after about 10 minutes.(battery is a year old) Codes still show up. Now i'm noticing a slight jump in the tach as I'm driving a constant speed...Wouldn't that be indicitive of a faulty torque converter or a slipping clutch? The tach seems to jump in all gears.

Any suggestions? I can't return the vehicle, because it was purchased as-is.

Please help!
 
Last edited:
stu454

stu454

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Dec 15, 2004
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Atlanta, GA
Armchair quarterbacking: if I only made it ten miles from the dealer and had a truck that shit the bed like that, I would think that I would turn around and head right back there.

I hope that it works out. Welcome to d-web.
 
drew_lewis

drew_lewis

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If only it were that easy. It was an as-is used vehicle purchase. No warranty expressed or implied. Do you have any ideas what it could be?

stu454 said:
Armchair quarterbacking: if I only made it ten miles from the dealer and had a truck that shit the bed like that, I would think that I would turn around and head right back there.

I hope that it works out. Welcome to d-web.
Click to expand...
 
Tugela

Tugela

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May 21, 2007
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drew_lewis said:
It was an as-is used vehicle purchase. No warranty expressed or implied.
Click to expand...

Before you unzip your pants and bend over trying to fix this yourself, have you explored your options with the seller? You may have bought the LR3 with the understanding of no warranty, but some states have laws that give car buyers recourse for the kind of situation you are in. It might be worth looking into. If you can get the dealer to take it back you'd find yourself in a much better position than having to solve (and pay for) the host of problems that you seem to have inherited. I don't know what kind of dealership you bought the LR3 from, but the truck may have been there for a reason (previous cheapskate owner trying to get away from it before things got any worse).
 
chris snell

chris snell

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In Texas, "AS IS" means exactly that. The buyer has very little recourse. I got screwed by this as a naïve college student on a Honda Accord sold by an unscrupulous car flipper.

Check for water ingress as I mentioned above and report back. I hope that it's a simple fix and not indicative of larger issues with your truck. Don't give up and don't let a few moronic responses in this thread give you the wrong impression about the site.
 
drew_lewis

drew_lewis

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I already purchased a Launch Creader on Amazon. It just got here. Any of this appear to be useful? Is it safe to drive without damaging the transmission?

Auto Gearbox
P0730 Incorrect gear ratio
P0741 Torque converter clutch solenoid - circuit performance or stuck off.
U0155 - Lost communication with instrument cluster control module.

ABS
U1A4A Invalid data received from differential control module - rear.
C1A00 Control module.
 
chris snell

chris snell

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Staff member
Aug 15, 2005
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drew_lewis said:
I already purchased a Launch Creader on Amazon. It just got here. Any of this appear to be useful? Is it safe to drive without damaging the transmission?

Auto Gearbox
P0730 Incorrect gear ratio
P0741 Torque converter clutch solenoid - circuit performance or stuck off.
U0155 - Lost communication with instrument cluster control module.

ABS
U1A4A Invalid data received from differential control module - rear.
C1A00 Control module.
Click to expand...

Check out that harness mentioned earlier for water ingress. If you have it there, you probably have it elsewhere and will need to start going through connectors and cleaning them out one-by-one. I wouldn't drive it unless it's to a shop.
 
paxton

paxton

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Nov 13, 2006
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Huntsville, AL
chris snell said:
Check out that harness mentioned earlier for water ingress. If you have it there, you probably have it elsewhere and will need to start going through connectors and cleaning them out one-by-one. I wouldn't drive it unless it's to a shop.
Click to expand...

I would get it towed. Find source. Fix. Change fluids.
 
D

discostew

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Sep 14, 2010
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Northern Illinois
I didn't see this question earlier cause I was busy. I think I can help you a little but you will need to get the whole system scanned by a scanner that will let you read the complete vehicle codes.

When these types of faults show up it's generally a network problem. Usually caused by a broken wire or corroded splice. The fact that autozone could read a code from the trans tells me it's awake. Good advise to look at the t case module connectors for water ingress or the green fur that grows from corroded connectors. The trans module is part of the valve body and would be very rare for that to fail in the way yours is.

If I had to deal with this I would look at the brake light switch connector and make sure you have battery Positive voltage at 2 terminals., I'm hoping you have no battery voltage on the red wire with the key on. That would be my guess as to what's wrong. And it would be caused by a corroded splice in the right front sill area.
 
drew_lewis

drew_lewis

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Thanks for all of the feedback on this post. I pulled the battery and checked every single connector that I could find back there. They're all dry inside and no corrosion. It doesn't look like it's ever even been wet back there. Everything has a nice coat of powdery road dust. With the exception of the "waterproof blackbox" that houses the transfer control module. No dust or water residue to be found in there. Where are these splices you're referring to? Are they located in the channel that runs along side the passenger doors? Or behind the passenger side kick plate? Anyone have a picture?
 
drew_lewis

drew_lewis

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Dec 7, 2015
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It's possible that it's flood damage, but I thought those transmissions were sealed to allow for water submersion? How would I go about draining it? Do I have to just pull the pan off? I don't see a drain plug anywhere.
riceybean said:
Flood damage? Drain the trans bet its full of water if it is.
Click to expand...
 
drew_lewis

drew_lewis

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Dec 7, 2015
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There are all the codes that I managed to find with my scanner. (Launch Creader Professional)

Auto Gearbox
P0730 Incorrect gear ratio
P0741 Torque converter clutch solenoid - circuit performance or stuck off.
U0155 - Lost communication with instrument cluster control module.

ABS
U1A4A Invalid data received from differential control module - rear.
C1A00 Control module.

discostew said:
I didn't see this question earlier cause I was busy. I think I can help you a little but you will need to get the whole system scanned by a scanner that will let you read the complete vehicle codes.

When these types of faults show up it's generally a network problem. Usually caused by a broken wire or corroded splice. The fact that autozone could read a code from the trans tells me it's awake. Good advise to look at the t case module connectors for water ingress or the green fur that grows from corroded connectors. The trans module is part of the valve body and would be very rare for that to fail in the way yours is.

If I had to deal with this I would look at the brake light switch connector and make sure you have battery Positive voltage at 2 terminals., I'm hoping you have no battery voltage on the red wire with the key on. That would be my guess as to what's wrong. And it would be caused by a corroded splice in the right front sill area.
Click to expand...
 
D

discostew

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Sep 14, 2010
7,733
1,024
Northern Illinois
Take a look at a post I made in the LR3 LR4 technical board recently. I was yacking about network problems and how they need to be diagnosed. You have a network problem no question. When the vehicle cantcomunicate with abs it gets really pissed off and drops to the bump stops like yours is. Basically the systems don't have enough info to know it's safe for you to drive so it does what your truck is doing.
Also if the door locks never cycled you have a high speed network failure. It's not the end of the world. We fix this crap all the time. We can get you thru it
 
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