Just bought my first Land Rover....
- Thread starter drew_lewis
- Start date
Your code reader is reading trans engine and abs. I bet there are 20 other systems with faults that would help diagnose this.
I just noticed today that when I start up the truck, there's first the buzz from the suspension compressor...but then there's a grind type sound. It doesn't do it everytime. Related? Locking differential acting up?
Yes, it will crank and crank...just never fires up. Occasionally it will finally fire up, but then just decides to stall out.
That my friend is not a network problem. that is more than likely a fuel issue. I kind of think your not checking all the stuff I told you check. When that happens will it run on WD40? And PLEASE don't give me that short list of faults again. It's almost an unusable bit of information. There are at least 20 other systems that will be faulted out. You need to know what modules are not reporting. I'm sure its a ton of them.
Some of what you said makes me think you have a abs module out of it. But You haven't offered enough info to throw that dart.
I haven't had any WD40. I just got some yesterday, but it hasn't happened since. I still can't find my ohm meter so I'm going to just order a brake switch. I haven't had another person to help me check the brake lightbulbs either.I will definately get through the list that you provided. On a different, but potentially related subject.....I use to own a Subaru Tribeca and there was a special locking pin that needed to be inserted in the rear diff while being towed...I believe it was also suppose to be towed by flatbed only....would towing a LR by the front wheels damage the rear diff in any way?
Yes. But any tow truck driver worth his weight in salt will tow it the right way.
Here is what I think just based on the info you have given me.
You have a fault in the rear diff system. even though your not reading any faults from that system the abs has deemed info from it invalid. That and the noise you here COULD indicate that you have a broken rear diff motor. That part I would think one of our vendors could sell you used. A new replacement would cost you near $1,000. You wont be able to do that job start to finish because after you install it you have to relearn all the positions with a diagnostic computer that can communicate with that system.
When the thing cranks but wont start you have a fuel issue I'm guessing and this totally unrelated to the first problem and the network issue you describe.It's rare to loose a fuel pump in one of these trucks. I usually find a wiring issue.
Now here is the most important. It's entirely possible that the broken rear diff motor is causing the suspension to drop. But without reading those codes that's entirely a guess.But when a network goes down you have to have all the info to fix it. Even though every module seems to be picking on the abs its hard to say that that is the problem. The thing does have a fault in it that would indicate it's throwing up the white flag and giving up the fight. But at close to $2,000 I would not want to just guess at that.
Can networks are difficult even when you have the best equipment. It would take an incredible amount of luck just reading codes from 3 systems.
Thanks for all of the great advice discostew. I think it would be best if I gave as many details about the nostart situation as possible...
It's very random and sporadic. I may get in the truck, crank it and no start....then turn the key off and back on and then it starts right up...I haven't experienced an extended period of nostart since the other day when I moved the passenger seat up and got it to start...it's only for a second and then it starts up. Occasionally, it will appear to be running, but can't carry a consistent idle and the gas pedal does nothing at all when pressed....if it was a lack of fuel, then when I floor it, it should choke out and die...not the case here.....the next time I experience an extended nostart, I'll be prepared to spray the intake with WD40....I have a can in the truck with a screwdriver for the airbox.
It's very random and sporadic. I may get in the truck, crank it and no start....then turn the key off and back on and then it starts right up...I haven't experienced an extended period of nostart since the other day when I moved the passenger seat up and got it to start...it's only for a second and then it starts up. Occasionally, it will appear to be running, but can't carry a consistent idle and the gas pedal does nothing at all when pressed....if it was a lack of fuel, then when I floor it, it should choke out and die...not the case here.....the next time I experience an extended nostart, I'll be prepared to spray the intake with WD40....I have a can in the truck with a screwdriver for the airbox.
WD40 does not help. Still waiting on my brake switch to come in. Should I hear a honk when locking the doors with the remote? Because it just started this morning...never did before...
No that's s mislock. Usually caused by the hood switch. Or tailgate not being closed
Still waiting on my brake switch to arrive. I went to start it his morning and all of the lights were out and my suspension was working again....drove it a few miles hwy/street combo and no lights came on. Put some air in my left rear tire because it appears to have developed a leak...parked at Whataburger and shut it off to go eat....came back out and wouldn't start and the lights are back on the dash again......
Would this help diagnose? http://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php/range-rover-mkiii/mkiii-all-comms?id=540
I have never used it. Maybe someone else here has some experience with it. I noticed in the description it will communicate with MOST systems. So that"s questionable. Not to be confused with the M.O.S.T ring witch is a fiber optic communication system for the entertainment system.
lol, well I'm going to go pick up a new ohm meter today. I'm starting to think I may have a short or loose ground on the outside of the vehicle...because after all the lights went out yesterday and I took my drive to whataburger, it has become ever increasingly difficult to get it to start...I think when I put the suspension into offroad, it may have made my problem less intermittent and more permanent.
swapped out fuel relay with headlight washer relay (same part#) and fired right up....back to troubleshooting the 3 amigos + brake light....
Don't confuse your problem with the three amigos issue found on the Disco2. Your problem is better described as dash lit up like a Christmas Tree.
Thanks again for all of the help with this DiscoStew. Do you know how I would go about checking the abs/dynamic control unit?