A rear diff motor will cause the vehicle to drop also. The code that said invalid data just means the rear diff control module has a fault stored in it . Data from modules that have fault codes stored is always considered invalid
Just bought my first Land Rover....
- Thread starter drew_lewis
- Start date
I wanted to pull it in the garage out of the cold, but now it wont even start....I turn the key and it just cranks, I let go and it keeps on cranking until I turn the key off....I almost got it to start, but then it died. Do you think it's related to the networking issue or I bought a money pit?
That's kinda strange. Cranks but won't start doesn't sound like its a network fault but it makes me want to look at 2 areas. First is the sill area in the left rear door. A wire harness runs thru there and I have had more than one truck have an issue back there with the fuel pump feed wire shorting out against a locating stud and arching to the can lines. The other place you should look is a connector that sits on top of the frame rail behind the left rear wheel. It's Big connector that is basically a body harness to chassis harness junction . Just look to see that none of those wires coming out of there are broken or corroded.
For it to be cranking I think the PCM knows the trans is in park. So that's good.
For it to be cranking I think the PCM knows the trans is in park. So that's good.
It's dark now, I'll try and take a look at it tomorrow. Do you think that's causing the codes to be thrown as well or a completely separate issue?
I dot know if you looked at the thread I started titled I found another pass thru module. I kind of describe how I look at the list of reporting modules and make my assumptions based on that. I'm not very trusting of aftermarket scanners but the one you got will help. The codes listed are not really enough to go on.
But if you have a module saying it can't communicate with another module it will have a code that starts with the letter U . Think of that as a " it's not me fault" it's awake and knows the other module is not. Look for modules that have no codes and think of them as suspect. Like if the abs can't communicate with a module and it's got no codes . It's kinda suspect
But if you have a module saying it can't communicate with another module it will have a code that starts with the letter U . Think of that as a " it's not me fault" it's awake and knows the other module is not. Look for modules that have no codes and think of them as suspect. Like if the abs can't communicate with a module and it's got no codes . It's kinda suspect
I bet your going to find the two issues related. But keep them separate in your mind. When it's cranking but won't start treat it that way. Chk fuel psi and spark. When it's doing the other stuff figure out what module is out of the loop. Both paths will usually end up going the same basic place.
We could go do a drive by at this guys place. Might take the fun out of screwing you like this
We could go do a drive by at this guys place. Might take the fun out of screwing you like this
Yea I started reading your thread, but haven't got all of the way through it. Do a drive by? Are you local in DFW?
No I'm not local but DWEB is everyplace. I was thinking that when it won't start and it just cranks spray WD40 into the throttle while someone else is cranking it. Then you will know if you have spark without digging a coil out of valve-cover
I didn't even think about it, but the keyless entry is very intermittent as well! I was just thinking that the batteries were going bad....but that may be related to the same problem...probably another splice that will need to be addressed...
Before you go any further, test your battery. Check the voltage with the truck turned off and the voltage with the motor running and report back.
You will want to fix all the other splices in the end but till you find this problem you should concentrate on what's got this truck pissed off right now. There a grey/black splice that will make your windows inop, a green/white one that will make keyless entry inop, and a red one that will do all this. The red one feeds battery voltage to the steering angle sensor, the brake light switch, and the terrain response.
Do check your battery voltage like was mentioned. I know it was cranking but I can't tell you how many times I've been bitten in the ass by a battery going dead while I'm working on a car.
Do check your battery voltage like was mentioned. I know it was cranking but I can't tell you how many times I've been bitten in the ass by a battery going dead while I'm working on a car.
Well I pulled the battery to have it charged, (I can't find my ohm meter at the moment.) The guy at autozone said it was at 84%...anyway, I located the red wire splice. The wires appear to be 18g, 2 wires on 1 end of the splice and 1 wire on the other. I removed the corroded splice, stripped back a bit of insulation from all 3 wires, the copper appeared to be black, but not brittle. Applied di-electric grease, buttspliced and applied spray on "electric-tape". Is that the splice you were referring to?
Well, these are the codes that I'm getting now....with battery fully charged and in good working order.
Auto Gearbox
P0730 Incorrect gear ratio
P0741 Torque converter clutch solenoid - circuit performance or stuck off.
U0155 - Lost communication with instrument cluster control module.
U0122 - Lost communication with vehicle dynamics control module.
U0416 - Invalid data received from vehicle dynamics control module.
ABS
U1A4A Invalid data received from differential control module - rear.
C1A00 Control module.
SRS
U0122 - Lost communication with vehicle dynamics control module
Auto Gearbox
P0730 Incorrect gear ratio
P0741 Torque converter clutch solenoid - circuit performance or stuck off.
U0155 - Lost communication with instrument cluster control module.
U0122 - Lost communication with vehicle dynamics control module.
U0416 - Invalid data received from vehicle dynamics control module.
ABS
U1A4A Invalid data received from differential control module - rear.
C1A00 Control module.
SRS
U0122 - Lost communication with vehicle dynamics control module
That's still not enough info. It's only listing codes from modules that thing will read. How did the brake light switch voltage measure out? Are the sill trim and harness protector out so you can see the harness? Your going to need to know that other modules have faults and that scanner isn't reading them
I still haven't managed to find my ohm meter or WD40..just moved about 3 months ago. The splice didn't look terrible, it didn't pull apart on it's own.
im not really into the newer rovers primarily due to their myriad of computers. That said, i recently had a similar issue with my daily driver. Turns out, my a/c drain line had become blocked, allowing water to fill my PCM (main ecu module). This caused ALL KINDS of wonkiness.
Long story short, you mentioned water ingress. This just sounds like some sort of electrical issue. Check your TCM/ECM for water. verify voltage on the battery. Check your main grounds.
Report back.
Long story short, you mentioned water ingress. This just sounds like some sort of electrical issue. Check your TCM/ECM for water. verify voltage on the battery. Check your main grounds.
Report back.
ok here is what you do for now untill you find that stuff.
You go get a bag of potatoes , the big baking kind. and a good stick about the size of a plunger handle but maybe a little thicker.
Then you go over to this guys lot and start jamming those potatoes into every cars tail pipes you think you can get without being seen by any cameras. That should keep him busy until we get this figured out. It wont help your situation but I think it would make most of us feel better.
You go get a bag of potatoes , the big baking kind. and a good stick about the size of a plunger handle but maybe a little thicker.
Then you go over to this guys lot and start jamming those potatoes into every cars tail pipes you think you can get without being seen by any cameras. That should keep him busy until we get this figured out. It wont help your situation but I think it would make most of us feel better.