what do the unlabeled buttons do? where are the gauges? oil pressure, coolant temp, oil pressure?
The other switches are waiting for me to find time to add things like
Compressor, Front and rear lockers and more lighting.
Lucky 8?s Project P38
- Thread starter FIVESPDDISCO
- Start date
The other switches are waiting for me to find time to add things like
Compressor, Front and rear lockers and more lighting.
Mini Project Update : Flash back
There was only 125 Rhino edition P38s made for the US market in 2000 and then a final batch of 150 for 2002. Needless to say these are rare trucks.
So whats the point of this history lesson ?
Against all odds we had another Rhino edition P38 show up at Lucky8’s front door. This poor animal was in desperate need of some BECM work. Once it had a clean bill of health we took the little guy out for some pictures with it’s big brother. Enjoy
From the inside of the stock Rhino
Playing with the angles
And the Poser shot
There was only 125 Rhino edition P38s made for the US market in 2000 and then a final batch of 150 for 2002. Needless to say these are rare trucks.
So whats the point of this history lesson ?
Against all odds we had another Rhino edition P38 show up at Lucky8’s front door. This poor animal was in desperate need of some BECM work. Once it had a clean bill of health we took the little guy out for some pictures with it’s big brother. Enjoy
From the inside of the stock Rhino
Playing with the angles
And the Poser shot
atriot:I enjoy checking up on this P38 build. Partly out of a weird fascination of P38 turd polishing and partly just to see what you guys come up with next.
I'm one of those guy's that have never liked anything at all about the P38 Range Rover. But I have to say that following your thread has helped to form a reluctant appreciation for the unloved P38. Nice work.
When your all done with this Rangie, lets see what you can do with an old Freelander?
I'm one of those guy's that have never liked anything at all about the P38 Range Rover. But I have to say that following your thread has helped to form a reluctant appreciation for the unloved P38. Nice work.
When your all done with this Rangie, lets see what you can do with an old Freelander?
Thank you for the kind words and we do have a Freeland project coming. :smilelol:
What the hell is a Corono Light? We.only get.Corona in Australia. The Mexican certainly know how to make an easy drinking beer. I can understand why the Prince of Darkness went to lunch when you approached it with light beer. So the go is - real.Corona and more pics of your dolly bird with or without the truck.
Cheers
Cheers
Project Update : Pop goes the ?
Have you ever heard a drive line noise that you instantly knew was catastrophic? I did at VOT last year and the Rhino appeared to be lacking FWD.
Once the truck was free from the obstacle everything worked fine. I just scratched my head and went on for the next 2 days of the trip.
Pic nicked from Bryon Dorr
I heard this gut wrenching noise again at Rovers on the Rocks. I was positive there was no FWD. We jacked up the truck to test it and … Nothing. Everything worked as it should. Again I found myself scratching my head.
Back at the shop we pull the CVs, Diff and 1/2 shafts. Yep you guessed it
Unfortunately the next thing was the T-case and out it came. There was a ton of metal shavings in the fluid.
One of the bearings was completely shot but this would not account for the lack of FWD.
Hoping against all odds that the welded center viscous was still good, I popped it open and found
.
.
.
.
.
this.
The end result was some of the teeth on the spider gears snapped off.
As the broken teeth bounced around the viscous unit it would spontaneously lose FWD. We maybe asking to much from the T-case but I’m going to give it another college try with a welded center.
Thats all for now, enjoy the frosty poser pic.
Have you ever heard a drive line noise that you instantly knew was catastrophic? I did at VOT last year and the Rhino appeared to be lacking FWD.
Once the truck was free from the obstacle everything worked fine. I just scratched my head and went on for the next 2 days of the trip.
Pic nicked from Bryon Dorr
I heard this gut wrenching noise again at Rovers on the Rocks. I was positive there was no FWD. We jacked up the truck to test it and … Nothing. Everything worked as it should. Again I found myself scratching my head.
Back at the shop we pull the CVs, Diff and 1/2 shafts. Yep you guessed it
Unfortunately the next thing was the T-case and out it came. There was a ton of metal shavings in the fluid.
One of the bearings was completely shot but this would not account for the lack of FWD.
Hoping against all odds that the welded center viscous was still good, I popped it open and found
.
.
.
.
.
this.
The end result was some of the teeth on the spider gears snapped off.
As the broken teeth bounced around the viscous unit it would spontaneously lose FWD. We maybe asking to much from the T-case but I’m going to give it another college try with a welded center.
Thats all for now, enjoy the frosty poser pic.
Lucky8’s Project P38 Update : Been gone too long
First off, sorry for the lack in updates but I think this post will make a few people happy.
Snorkel
Say it with me S N O R K E L
Finally all the pieces are done and ready to go. So without further adieu, here is what it takes to do the install.
Put the template on the hood.
Mark the cut out portion with a scribe.
Remove the hood and cut the unwanted section out.
Remove the fender and inner fender plastic mud guard.
Put the template on and cut the unwanted section out.
Notch out the pillar trim piece to make room for the snorkel tube mounting tabs.
Align the notches with the upper existing screw hole. Use a self tapping screw to mount the bottom tab.
Remove the air box from the engine bay
First off, sorry for the lack in updates but I think this post will make a few people happy.
Snorkel
Say it with me S N O R K E L
Finally all the pieces are done and ready to go. So without further adieu, here is what it takes to do the install.
Put the template on the hood.
Mark the cut out portion with a scribe.
Remove the hood and cut the unwanted section out.
Remove the fender and inner fender plastic mud guard.
Put the template on and cut the unwanted section out.
Notch out the pillar trim piece to make room for the snorkel tube mounting tabs.
Align the notches with the upper existing screw hole. Use a self tapping screw to mount the bottom tab.
Remove the air box from the engine bay
Remove the trumpet nose section
File down the tabs on the inner trumpet section for removal.
Remove inner trumpet section
Clean out the air box and seal all the factory drain holes with RTV
Cut the outer ring off of the internal trumpet section
Generously apply RTV to the end of the internal trumpet piece and slide on the PVC hose.
Slide the PVC hose through the old air intake opening. Take care not to cut the PVC hose on the inner fender.
Generously apply RTV to the end of the internal trumpet piece and slide it back into the air box. Seal the remaining holes with RTV.
Generously apply RTV to the end of the snorkel in the fender well and slide on the PVC hose. Drill a 1/4 hole and attach the PVC hose clamp to the inside of the fender. Tuck the PVC hose above the inner fender plastic mud guard
The inner fender plastic mud guard will have to be reworked to make room for the PVC hose.
Use a heat gun on the inner fender plastic mud guard to bend it back into place.
Install the rubber trim pieces on the hood and fender cut off sections.
Lastly, generously apply RTV to the snorkel top and install.
Let me know what you guys think. The poser pic here is the stock truck that gave up a hood and fender for testing purposes.
File down the tabs on the inner trumpet section for removal.
Remove inner trumpet section
Clean out the air box and seal all the factory drain holes with RTV
Cut the outer ring off of the internal trumpet section
Generously apply RTV to the end of the internal trumpet piece and slide on the PVC hose.
Slide the PVC hose through the old air intake opening. Take care not to cut the PVC hose on the inner fender.
Generously apply RTV to the end of the internal trumpet piece and slide it back into the air box. Seal the remaining holes with RTV.
Generously apply RTV to the end of the snorkel in the fender well and slide on the PVC hose. Drill a 1/4 hole and attach the PVC hose clamp to the inside of the fender. Tuck the PVC hose above the inner fender plastic mud guard
The inner fender plastic mud guard will have to be reworked to make room for the PVC hose.
Use a heat gun on the inner fender plastic mud guard to bend it back into place.
Install the rubber trim pieces on the hood and fender cut off sections.
Lastly, generously apply RTV to the snorkel top and install.
Let me know what you guys think. The poser pic here is the stock truck that gave up a hood and fender for testing purposes.
shit man is that really a Rino edition truck ? Those are bad ass , Ive only seen one of those .
I don't think I would worry about locking the t case . The viscous coupler is just about locked . Just enough slip to not crow hop