Lucky 8?s Project P38

redhawkrovers said:
Thats what this project is about Building aftermarket support.
As for the t-case The full size jeep wagoneers from 74-79
used a Borg-warner case that had a diff in it that could be locked
like a lt230. You would have to take both t-cases apart and compare
to see if you could use the jeep diff in it.
The Becm needs to be replaced with a relay center since that
what it basicly is.

I like where your head is at. Thank you for the heads up on the jeep Tcase
 
Project Update

I got lucky and found this ultra rare SD roof rack and it came with a free parts truck.


photo-2.jpg
 

Jake1996D1

Well-known member
Mar 28, 2011
3,363
0
West Des Moines IA
FIVESPDDISCO said:
:applause:

But

One day you guys will need parts.... one day

LOL I need parts like every day. I am going to call you tomorrow actually..

Who have you got the commitment from? Why you so secretive on your build? I know you have something up your sleeve, spill the beans!
 

David Despain

Well-known member
Feb 24, 2005
790
0
44
Salt Lick City Utah
i thought of another big one, NAV DVD DISCS.
i know they are available new, but most folks dont need a whole set and dont want to spend the big bucks just to get the one disc or perhaps 2 that they need. buying a set and parting it out one at a time is a pain for the owner. but i would be more than willing to pay a little extra more for the ease and convinence of buying them indiviually. if you bought them in bulk and carried the cost perhaps you could make money by selling them on at a mark-up. i think if you divide a set up they come out to about 20-25 bucks a piece. i think most would be willing to pay 30-40 a piece though.
 

KyleT

Well-known member
Mar 28, 2007
6,059
8
36
Fort Worth, TEXAS
Dave, I ended up trading a guy for a svo svc supercharger because couldn't sell the p38 sd rack I had.... I'm in the middle coast too... Then I couldn't sell t he sc...

And iirc the nav discs are cd and can be burned.......
 
David Despain said:
i thought of another big one, NAV DVD DISCS.
i know they are available new, but most folks dont need a whole set and dont want to spend the big bucks just to get the one disc or perhaps 2 that they need. buying a set and parting it out one at a time is a pain for the owner. but i would be more than willing to pay a little extra more for the ease and convinence of buying them indiviually. if you bought them in bulk and carried the cost perhaps you could make money by selling them on at a mark-up. i think if you divide a set up they come out to about 20-25 bucks a piece. i think most would be willing to pay 30-40 a piece though.


Are you talking about the factory P39 nav?
 

David Despain

Well-known member
Feb 24, 2005
790
0
44
Salt Lick City Utah
FIVESPDDISCO said:
Have a look a few post down :)




Keep an eye on the Lucky8 Facebook page. this week.

http://www.facebook.com/Lucky8offroad?sk=wall&filter=12

DAMIK! see what i mean. the cost of those tires and rack is probably more than what you paid for the whole thing. i can never find deals like those, and yet they seem to fall into some peoples laps on a regular basis. oh well. seems to me that tires/wheels and racks are usually not worth the added cost and hassle of shipping.


I thought of one other thing. an aircompressor kit, something to fit in the exisitng compressor location that will fill the exisitng tank without using any of the valve block or soleniods or other crap for just inflating tires/tools for those folks who are on coils. i dont know how difficult or if it would be worth it from your business perspective to put together a kit for this purpose.
 

seventyfive

Well-known member
Jan 3, 2010
4,280
100
over there
David Despain said:
I thought of one other thing. an aircompressor kit, something to fit in the exisitng compressor location that will fill the exisitng tank without using any of the valve block or soleniods or other crap for just inflating tires/tools for those folks who are on coils. i dont know how difficult or if it would be worth it from your business perspective to put together a kit for this purpose.

could you use an arb compressor, plug the pressure switch on the arb compressor, fit the pressure switch to the p38's volume tank's drain plug, with a tee to your pneumatic fitting? plumb one of the compressor's ports to fill volume tank? that tank's volume may exceed the arb compressor.
 

KyleT

Well-known member
Mar 28, 2007
6,059
8
36
Fort Worth, TEXAS
i used the thomas 337 on my first one. it was pretty fast. but slightly loud. a intake muffler helped quiet it down.

easily fit in the stock location (without the lid)
 

Rover Mac

Well-known member
Feb 7, 2006
634
1
Los Angeles
spaces.msn.com
FIVESPDDISCO said:
I may have lost my mind but....... L8s new full on project truck will be a 2000 P38.


The P38 is one of my favorite looking Rover products. I love the classic folds in the hood, low roofline, proper tailgate and 4dot6 motor.
Unfortunately this is where the good ends and all that can be evil about a Rover begins. These 3 letter strike fear into any P38 owner " BCM "and if that was not scary enough we have "EAS" to keep them company.

The goal for this project is to have it ready to handle the Easter Trip with out failure. See video below.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SMwe5K0JYOk

Here is a quick run down of the things I have in store for this endeavor.
3-5 in lift
Dump the 20in dubs for 16in and 33in mud tires
Front and rear bumpers
Sliders
Front and rear lockers
Ok That was the easy stuff. This is were things will get interesting
HD drag link and track rod
Rear links that are not made from Fiberglass
Lock the Borg Tcase some way some how.
HD rear shaft
HD CV and shafts " this maybe a pipe dream"
Water proof the BCM
Disconnect the BCM from the ECU "incase of failure the truck will still run"

Any suggestions from you guys with more seat time in these trucks? What would you like to see made available for P38?

Done a few trail miles on my 1997 in the last 15 years and 170k miles.:)

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Wading has been one of my concerns with the air intake directly below the headlight, the door seals work well which is just as well for the BECM :eek: ( I now have a spare BECM and engine module just in case) The bonnet design makes a snorkel problematic, but I would be interested in well integrated and designed raised air intake to help the air intake in dusty desert conditions. (I have to use a shop vac on the air intake box after trips)

I have installed a second engine earth cable and a cable from the alternator and battery, and a single Odessey 2150 battery, along with a spare alternator. P38's are "sensitive" to battery voltage. Carry a spare alternator, maybe even a rebuilt / uprated model.

Scan gauge to provide accurate temp readings and battery voltage.

Wired my aux air con fans to a manual override switch, outside air temps can get rather warm in Death Valley.

My panhard rods were custom made to help with axle alignment and the OME coil lift for 285/75 tyres. Still allows enough clearance for RUD chains in the wheel well. Trrimmed front wheel liners, but had to remove the rear passenger side liner which did rub on Golden Crack and damaged the evap canister next to the filler neck.

Removed rear silencer box, and tucked exhaust outlet as high as possible (which warps the stock rear bumper :eek: )

I have the Southdown kit installed which really leaves very little on the under carriage to get hung up on, and i have never damaged the composite suspension arms. The rear bottom shock absorber nuts are another matter.

I have not seen or heard of a P38 axle breaking, Alan Bates (rockrover) broke a CV joint at a NR and that was fun removing the front axle hub nut:( I carry spare front and rear axle assemblies behind rear seats, easy and quick to swap out). Easier if you remove the rear brake dust shields beforehand, I have also had small stones caught between the disc and shield scoring the discs. EBC rotors and stock LR pads work for me.
However one of the reasons I choose Trutraks front and rear was because of the Viscous coupling and concerns over breaking axles with ARB's. Nothing some finesse and left foot braking can't compensate for. A locking center diff would be nice ( especially after driving the truck on the trail with a failed / locked up viscous coupling) and I would probably choose a ARB rear locker if i was to do it again. No issues with gearing with a mildly tweaked 4.6 and 33' tyres.

Change the BECM settings to Australian market to help minimize risk of BECM / security settings immobilizing your truck in the middle of no where;)

Jeep Cherokee JKS adjustable sway bar disconnects.

longer rear bump stops to stop shocks bottoming out.

Motor mounts can fail at inopportune times which may also cause the exhaust manifolds to crack (usually passenger side) and the Crank shaft sensor can fail when wet.

Should the fuel pump fail, especially with a fuel tank guard installed, cutting an access panel in the floor will avoid having to drop the fuel tank.

Front driveshaft is a DD Tom Woods, original LR rear (but I carry a UJ kit)

There are several bolts in the rear loadspace that can accommodate cargo space tie downs without having to drill holes.

used a Audi steel heater core and replaced aluminum pipes and pesky O rings. My theory is that replacing my coolant hoses frequently as preventive maintenance , however careful I was with the heater core hoses, it would cause the O rings to weep ever so slightly. ( I hate the smell of anti freeze from an aluminum block V8)

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When I replaced my cats, I rotated the cats for more clearance. The originals lasted for 150K but had taken a few hits and rattled horribly.The main silencer heat shield has come loose several times, now secured with jubilee clips.

The blue Cameron P38 in the linked photos belongs to a friend and Lucky8 customer ?
rockrover bumpers, 33", air suspension, Icon custom shocks etc
http://s270.photobucket.com/albums/jj89/CelticRover/Land Rover Trail Photographs/

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http://s270.photobucket.com/albums/jj89/CelticRover/Land%20Rover%20Trail%20Photographs/