Myrtle :: 2001 Land Rover Discovery II SE

JUKE179r

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2016
515
44
Suffolk, UK
It's been 11 days since I finally got the engine back up and running. So far the engine idle is smoother now and has a quicker throttle response.
:thumbsup:

Before my top end rebuild the Nanocom showed an average 3.87 of Roughness/0 Misfires for all 8 cylinders. After the rebuild it now shows on the Nanocom an average of 1.3 Roughness/0 Misfires on all 8 cylinders. I guess it’s all a combination of new fuel injectors, new HT Taylor 409 10mm leads, new spark plugs and new coils on a 19 year old V8 engine.
I'm going to drive it for 200 miles and then retorque all the top engine bolts and park plugs just for piece of mind.

As far as the heavier aluminum SAI tubing, I replaced it with 2 meters (I didn't use all of it) of 3/4" red silicone tubing and a "T" fitting. Adding this will make it sooooooooo much easier to remove and install if need be for top rear engine maintenance.
It hasn't been cold enough to properly test out the SAI pump and tubing. I will look for the wiring and try to add 12VDC to turn the pump on to ops check it.

I finally replaced the four worn tie rod boots on the Terrafirma drag link and track rod with the polyurethane boots from Gwyn Lewis UK. Hopefully they will last longer than 6 months like the Terrafirma boots did.
 

JUKE179r

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2016
515
44
Suffolk, UK
I finally made an SAI tube mod. This is the oil catch can kit I bought from a UK eBay seller... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223064881865

The only issue now which I expected was the engine’s extreme heat along with the flimsy type of hose I purchased for this SAI mod. After a 30 minute ride at 60 degree ambient temps, the engine heat is making the hose very hot and spongy/pliable. I‘ll keep checking it during the week. If it gets bad I might switch to a thicker walled 3/4” (19mm) silicone radiator hose.


 

JUKE179r

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2016
515
44
Suffolk, UK
I bought four new castle nuts for the Terrafirma track rod ends since one of them was cracked. The castle nut measurement is M12x1.5 pitch.
 

JUKE179r

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2016
515
44
Suffolk, UK
Two weeks ago I bought a remanufactured 150A alternator from eBay seller synergy auto parts for £90 + free shipping and I finally installed it today. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/114446489655
My original 120A alternator was dying a slow death. The bearing squealed like someone put sand in it and the voltage output was about 12.9 VDC constant.



Now, the installed remanufactured 150A alternator is putting out 13.97 to 14.06VDC.
:thumbsup:




I added a 23”/58cm length of 0AWG grounding cable from the alternator housing to the negative side of my Battery negative disconnect switch as part of my Continuing ‘Big 8’ cable install.

 

JUKE179r

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2016
515
44
Suffolk, UK
It’s almost been a week now and all seems great with the reconditioned 150A alternator. I’ve been monitoring the alternator Voltage output on my iPad with the UltraGauge Blue app & OBD dongle and the voltage is still around 13.7 - 14.1VDC.
:thumbsup:


Today I finally installed the steering wheel RH horn spring that I lost 2 years ago out my window on the motorway. I did this mod per the YouTube video. It keeps the horn buttons from sitting too high on the steering wheel...
 

JUKE179r

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2016
515
44
Suffolk, UK
Installed a DRL resistor behind the LH headlight, then programmed the BCU with my Nanocom to turn on the DRL option and now I have DRL on my 2001 Disco 2.
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