Paint for Arms and rear upper link.

ERover82

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Nov 26, 2011
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I also noticed that POR 15 sells something in a spray can they call chassis black. I've used that stuff before and They have a distributor near my work. But I don't see where they call it an epoxy. And when I've used that stuff its to paint something to stop rust. Kind of not what I'm looking for. I've been looking at the descriptions of some of these products and have to assume if they don't say epoxy, or 2K in the name it's just paint. One product I found claims it has a 2 chamber system that is going to mix the 2 parts while it comes out of the can. That just sounds like a shitshow to me.

Most spray and single component paints are alkyd or modified alkyd of varying quality. It’s an easy to use paint technology but inferior in adhesion, UV resistance, chemical resistance,abrasion, and impact resistance to other technologies. I’m guessing the 2k spray paint you saw was SprayMax, a single use polyurethane in a can. It’s better than most spray paints but requires serious PPE consideration, is expensive for the volume, and isn’t as good as urethane from a gun.

I’m going to start a test of commonly available spray paints soon. Basic bitch alkyd, acrylic modified alkyd, 1k epoxy, and lacquer. I’d like to throw in that spraymax stuff and some different 2k epoxies too.
 

discostew

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Sep 14, 2010
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Did you have to mix in the catalyst like the summt racing stuff? How did you identify the eastwood extreme chassis black as a laquer? In it's description they claim it has improved resistance to brake fluid and stuff. So to me that is in effect answering to a weakness, just improved resistance from bad resistance is still bad resistance.
I believe that is a lacquer so it will not be chemical resistant and should probably be used with their matching primer.
 

ERover82

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Nov 26, 2011
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Did you have to mix in the catalyst like the summt racing stuff? How did you identify the eastwood extreme chassis black as a laquer? In it's description they claim it has improved resistance to brake fluid and stuff. So to me that is in effect answering to a weakness, just improved resistance from bad resistance is still bad resistance.

I’m not sure if your asking about the SPI epoxy I’ve been using, or that Extreme chassis black. The SPI is 2k epoxy so yes it requires catalyst. The extreme is a 1k lacquer (identified in the Q&A section), so no mixing. Eastwood’s ceramic epoxy is a standard 2k epoxy like the SPI, Summit, and most others.
 

discostew

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Sep 14, 2010
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I’m not sure if your asking about the SPI epoxy I’ve been using, or that Extreme chassis black. The SPI is 2k epoxy so yes it requires catalyst. The extreme is a 1k lacquer (identified in the Q&A section), so no mixing. Eastwood’s ceramic epoxy is a standard 2k epoxy like the SPI, Summit, and most others.
Thanks. I'm going to go with what your using. You seeem to know whats up here. I don't paint so I have no clue.
 

ERover82

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Thanks. I'm going to go with what your using. You seem to know whats up here. I don't paint so I have no clue.

I'll break down a bit more, starting with easiest, cheapest, least toxic, worst results; and then to most difficult, expensive, most toxic, with best results.

Regular alkyd spray paint will get the job done and look good for a while, but take a week or more to fully cure.

Acrylic lacquer spray paint will be harder, adhere better, and cure faster. However, being non-catalyzed, will exhibit minimal chemical resistance.

For a mainstream spray paint , I'd go with an acrylic modified alkyd like Rustoleum Automotive Acrylic Enamel 2X. This technology combines the best properties of acrylic and alkyds.

From here on out there's three choices: epoxy, moisture cured urethane (MCU), and polyurethanes.

Epoxies are very durable, chemical resistant, and adhere extremely well to nearly any type of metal which is why they make excellent primers, but are two-part, UV vulnerable, and are less scuff resistant than polyurethanes. Some are self-etching (such as SPI's) requiring less surface prep for new metal. Some epoxies contain UV inhibitors such as Summit Racing's Chassis Shield. I still wouldn't use it for something that sees significant sunlght.

MCUs such as POR15 are also very durable, chemical resistant, with the advantage of being single-part. However they are generally not usually UV resistant and can be challenging to achieve strong adhesion on smooth metal. POR15 is best used on rough metal or surface rust for proper adhesion. Rust Bullet is a slightly different type of MCU, which claims to be both UV resistant and able to adhere well to smooth surfaces. All MCUs begin to cure upon opening due to air exposure. This gives the entire container a very short shelf life unless the cavity is filled with an inert gas such as argon before sealing the lid for storage.

Polyurethanes exhibit the best UV resistance, chemical resistance, scuff resistance, and finish quality. However, they are relatively expensive, are two-part, should be applied over primer, and contain very toxic isocyanates which require careful use of PPE.

If you'd prefer the best result possible in a can, I'd go with a 2k single use (48hr pot life) spray can like Eastwood AEROSPRAY or SprayMax 2k. Spray Max offers a 2k Epoxy Primer, which if you're not worried about UV resistance on underbody parts, may be sufficient. If you'd like additional protection and best finish, topcoat with Eastwood AEROSPRAY or SprayMax 2k satin polyurethane.

If I had to pick one to use tomorrow, and it had be durable, satin finish, some UV resistance, and not too hard to apply, I'd try Summit's Chassis Shield.
 
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discostew

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That's great info. I'm going to copy and paste that post for later. Thanks again. Heading to an auto paint supply store thats about a block from work and see what I can find. I've got a tool fairy that shows up on monday and he used to paint when he did more manly work. So I'll ask him for a little direction on the actual mixing and spraying.
 

jymmiejamz

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Dec 5, 2004
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Los Angeles, Ca
Does anyone know how manufacturers paint the chassis and suspension components? I think when ECR does their rebuilds they just powder coat the axles and suspension. I'm not a big fan of powder coat.
 

discostew

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Sep 14, 2010
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Does anyone know how manufacturers paint the chassis and suspension components? I think when ECR does their rebuilds they just powder coat the axles and suspension. I'm not a big fan of powder coat.
I think that they powder coat OME springs. Looks like the easiest way to get the stuff off is paint it on something that's going to flex.
 

ERover82

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Does anyone know how manufacturers paint the chassis and suspension components? I think when ECR does their rebuilds they just powder coat the axles and suspension. I'm not a big fan of powder coat.

My best guess would be an alkyd stoving enamel. Most chassis components are now e-coated which is superior in that it coats interior surfaces as well.
 

discostew

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I called that paint supplier I said I was going to go see. Ends up they have closed the actual lobby/store and you have to call them and then one of them will meet you outside in the parking lot. What I did find out is he doesn't have any of the 2k procucts ERover mentioned, he wanted to sell me something he was calling chassis black but was only one part and ready to shoot. My tool fairy discouraged me from buying a real cheap gun and said if I'm painting chassis parts hanging I might want to go with a gravity feed gun.
He also said I would need to know what size tip or nozzle I would need for whatever I'm spraying. Don't know if its worth mentioning, guy at paint store said the stuff he wants to sell me needs a 1.4 tip, and his cheapest gun is like $60.
 

discostew

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Ok I have the summit racing satin black and the catalyst ordered. Any recomendation on a tip size and a gun recomendation. I'm willing to spend more than the $60 bucks for the cheap seats.
 

ERover82

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Nov 26, 2011
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Spraying primer doesn't require a fancy gun. Those are for base, clear, and when paying $1000 per gal of red. The infamous cheap HF purple gun will spray primer fine, and if in the beginning you screw it up, you're only out $15 bucks. I'm sure you're the kind of guy that appreciates good tools though and will probably clean a gun properly, so spending $50 to $100 on a better gun will deliver a better overall experience. If you get to spraying urethane, spend double that or more on a second gun.

For that epoxy you want something with a 1.4-1.6 tip. A HVLP has better transfer efficiency so you waste less paint, make less mess, and save $. A gravity feed will cover the size of parts you're talking about and get into tight spots a bit easier.

I'd consider these or similar:

Check out the Iwata LPH440 and SATAjet 100 B F to see what the pros use.

Once you mix that epoxy, you've got two coats to do at at least 30 minutes apart, but the pot life is only 60 - 120 minutes. I'd mix up some really small batches and practice the mixing, spray technique, and gun cleanup on scrap metal. It's time consuming at first will all the setup, but gets much easier once you've got all the little details figured out. Make sure the material is degreased and completely dry, the environment is at least 70 degrees will low humidity, and that it will remain so for 24 hours after spraying. This curing time is critical to the end result.

Don't know what you have for equipment and PPE, but this is what I recommend:
Compressor, bigger the better
3/8 air line
Oil/water line filter
Main regulator set to 120+ psi
Gun regulator set to whatever TDS calls for
Respirator
Disposable Tyvek suit
Gun stand like this: https://www.harborfreight.com/gravity-feed-spray-gun-stand-34958.html
Mixing supplies, eg. https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Essentials-Paddles-Strainers-Opener/dp/B00DP5D51I/
Disposable paint cups for fast cleanup: https://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-air-spray-gun-disposable-paint-cups-97098.html
Denatured alcohol for wax and grease removal from bare metal
Lacquer thinner for gun cleaning
 
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tpsykes

Well-known member
Mar 10, 2016
45
13
Gate City Va
Spraying primer doesn't require a fancy gun. Those are for base and clear or when paying $1000 a quart for red. The infamous cheap HF purple gun will spray primer fine, and if in the beginning you screw it up, you're only out $15 bucks. I'm sure you're the kind of guy that appreciates good tools though and will probably clean a gun properly, so spending $50 to $100 on a better gun will deliver a better overall experience. If you get to spraying urethane, spend double that or more on a second gun.

For that epoxy you want something with a 1.4-1.6 tip. A HVLP has better transfer efficiency so you waste less paint, make less mess, and save $. A gravity feed will do the size of parts you're talking about and get into tight spots a bit easier.

I'd consider these or similar:

Check out the Iwata LPH440 and SATAjet 100 B F to see what the pros use.

Once you mix that epoxy, you've got two coats to do at at least 30 minutes apart, but the pot life is only 60 - 120 minutes. I'd mix up some really small batches and practice the mixing, spray technique, and gun cleanup on scrap metal. It's time consuming at first will all the setup, but gets much easier once you've got all the little details figured out. Make sure the material is degreased and completely dry, the environment is at least 70 degrees will low humidity, and that it will remain so for 24 hours after spraying. This curing time is critical to the end result.

Don't know what you have for equipment and PPE, but this is what I recommend:
Compressor, bigger the better
3/8 air line
Oil/water line filter
Main regulator set to 120+ psi
Gun regulator set to whatever TDS calls for
Respirator
Disposable Tyvek suit
Gun stand like this: https://www.harborfreight.com/gravity-feed-spray-gun-stand-34958.html
Mixing supplies, eg. https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Essentials-Paddles-Strainers-Opener/dp/B00DP5D51I/
Denatured alcohol for wax and grease removal from bare metal
Lacquer thinner for gun cleaning
We've been using the 3m pps system. It's been really nice thus far.
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,735
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Northern Illinois
Haven't tried that one yet. How has it changed the experience vs traditional setups? What jobs are you doing with it?
I saw a advertising video from Land Rover and those guys at the factory were using that. I wouldn't have recognized it if tpsykes hadn't mentioned it. Then I looked it up.
 

ERover82

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Nov 26, 2011
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I saw a advertising video from Land Rover and those guys at the factory were using that. I wouldn't have recognized it if tpsykes hadn't mentioned it. Then I looked it up.

PPS cup system makes a lot of sense, but the Accuspray gun and tips appear to have mixed reviews.
 

tpsykes

Well-known member
Mar 10, 2016
45
13
Gate City Va
Yeah I'm not buying an expensive gun, but not the cheapest one I can find either. That would be like buying a really good set of golf clubs and thinking I could golf because of it.
We do more industrial coatings, anything from mcus to arcyrlic urethanes, epoxies and polyaspartics. Not show quality stuff by any means, but it's nice because clean up is so easy, and I can change tip size in no time.
 
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discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
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Northern Illinois
It looks like a great system if your still talking about the 3M stuff. Looks like you could get set up with that for under $400 if I'm looking at the right thing. But what I looked up is exactly what some Brit was using in a video about high end JLR paint. Like the SVR and Autobiography trucks. I'm looking at guns on amazon.
 

discostew

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Sep 14, 2010
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Northern Illinois
I'm going to get one of the guns the paint store has. The paint should be here Friday, but the gun I wanted I wouldn't have till monday. I would rather have it in hand. The place is wacky though. They have never had anything I needed. Adhesive remover, 3M bedding and glazing compound, you name it. I've wasted more trips into that dump than I can count.
 
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