so I should just swap out with another proline? Other guys have ran that pump and havent had an issue. I guess I just have shitty luck.
Proline Water Pump
- Thread starter justintoxicated1
- Start date
All parts whether genuine or aftermarket have a bad apple in the bunch at some point. I am very disappointed in Proline though as a whole. I had 3 radiators within 4 months of purchase develop bad leaks in what boiled down to as poor welds. I wouldn't purchase another one especially with the set back these caused me as they were installed in customers trucks.
ptschram
Well-known member
WILL.TILLERY said:
OTOH, I had a radiator in a Defender develop a leak from a poor solder joint on an OEM radiator!
Everything has a chance to fail, we can't afford 100% perfection and shouldn't expect it.
ptschram
Well-known member
nosivad_bor said:
LOL, expecting something and being willing to pay for it are two very different things.
Every manufacturing process has an acceptable failure rate and that failure rate is intimately tied to the cost of the widget. This is one of the most simple economic, engineering, and quality control principles. Economies of the world are based upon acceptable failure rates.
This topic was discussed in every one of my upper level economics, finance, engineering and quality control classes.
Everything is a compromise, everything.
ptschram said:
So based on your impressive advanced training: the higher the price, the lower the failure rate! LOL
My experience is go genuine.
Back in the mid-nineties I would not have said this. That's because the only non-genuine ones available then were still OEM and looked exactly like genuine with cast impellers and the LR part number still either cast in the housing or was visibly ground off. The non-genuine was about $50 cheaper than genuine at the time.
Nowadays, some of the non-genuine pumps are really cheap (~$100 or less) and come with pressed steel impellers. I've had bad luck with these.
Also-I only use the nice thick pump gaskets. Those paper-thin gaskets are crap and leak rather quickly.
When wheeling I carry an extra genuine pump and several of the "good" gaskets. Remember, non-serp 3.5/3.9 pumps are not interchangeable with 4.0/4.6. Thus, you may not be able to borrow/lend extra pumps with those you wheel with.
My 2 cents-
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ptschram
Well-known member
GregH said:
Go genuine, eh? LOL, I worked in a tier one auto parts factory-a company that was a supplier to Rover. Genuine does not mean a damned thing. In many cases, you are buying the same damned part in a different box.
The factory where I worked, we boxed parts in Toyota boxes, Jaguar boxes, GM boxes and Ford boxes. Seemed kinda silly to ship parts from Berne, IN all over the world.
Genuine only means that the parts were distributed through the OEM distribution network and little more.
Yes, there may be some ultra cheap parts manufactured in third world countries, but the majority are made either in the same factory as OEM, or even side-by side with OEM parts.
OEM parts are made by lowest bidders with LTAs that require the cost to go down each year and rigid QC requirements that set the quality level and cost follows.
If prolines failes so frequently, RN and others wouldn't carry them as they would be loosing money all the time from warranties/
luvs2getmuddy said:
Oh that's just fucking brilliant.
I guess you've just deduced this guy's Proline back into working properly?
In my experience:
Junk water pumps use a cast prop that moves very little coolant. See physics 101 for an explanation.
Genuine and some of the "Quality" aftermarkets pumps use a "pressed tin" or formed prop which will actually move the coolant to the specs required buy your engine. Yes there are OE pumps that are not "Genuine" for a bit cheaper than most dealers.
Reman: I wouldn't waist your time with in the current market. They just replace the component that failed and slap it back on the shelf. Bearings fail which make the shaft wear uneven, which causes the shaft to cut into the housing, which causes the prop to hit the unit's housing or more.....
What gets replaced is the bearing and the prop. Because it failed.
For $250 for "Genuine" and $199 for "OE" it's an easy choice for me.
Junk water pumps use a cast prop that moves very little coolant. See physics 101 for an explanation.
Genuine and some of the "Quality" aftermarkets pumps use a "pressed tin" or formed prop which will actually move the coolant to the specs required buy your engine. Yes there are OE pumps that are not "Genuine" for a bit cheaper than most dealers.
Reman: I wouldn't waist your time with in the current market. They just replace the component that failed and slap it back on the shelf. Bearings fail which make the shaft wear uneven, which causes the shaft to cut into the housing, which causes the prop to hit the unit's housing or more.....
What gets replaced is the bearing and the prop. Because it failed.
For $250 for "Genuine" and $199 for "OE" it's an easy choice for me.
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The label of 'genuine or non-genuine' isn't so much what convinced me to pay the extra price....the guy I talked with (at AB--after talking to RN and others) actually explained the function of the prop and the material used...and explained the failure rate of that particular part of the pump.
It wasn't particularly hard to do the waterpump change at home but it's not a part I want to be replacing every other month...so it was (hopefully) worth the extra $$.
To me, it's a similar discussion between the plastic vs steel idler pulleys for the Disco....
It wasn't particularly hard to do the waterpump change at home but it's not a part I want to be replacing every other month...so it was (hopefully) worth the extra $$.
To me, it's a similar discussion between the plastic vs steel idler pulleys for the Disco....