School me on driveline

chris snell

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Aug 15, 2005
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I'm looking to put some lockers on the 110 and rebuild my axles with fresh seals and bearings and do D90 calipers up front while I'm in there. I've never opened up the housings, though, and I'm not totally sure what's in there. In terms of spline-age, I think this is what is probably in there now:


Driveline.png


I have a set of RoverTracks HD CVs and half-shafts from the front of my old D90 but I have a suspicion that the ex-MOD 110 has longer CVs (and stub axles) than the D90 front axle:


P1090227.JPG

Photo credit: JSQ

Presumably, that means that I could probably use the Truetrac and HD halfshafts off my old D90 but I would need to find some of these longer-style HD CVs or just stick with the ones I have. Does that sound correct? Does Lucky 8 have what I'm looking for?

On to the rears. I ran a Detroit in my old truck. It was sloppy and noisy as shit but it never failed me and worked well on the trail. I figure that I'll go for a Sals Detroit. Can I buy a complete, set-up diff like I did from GBR back in the day or do I buy a locker and the tools to set the backlash and figure out how to do the switchover myself?

For the rear axles, it looks like I need to find a set of 24-spline HD 110 axles for a drum brake truck. Sound right?
 

Nomar

Well-known member
Apr 23, 2004
6,067
3
Virginia
I think you are referring to the AEU2522 size CV in the front(on the right in your pic)
I am running those in my Hunter. Got them from Ashcroft way back when.
After I busted 2 Rovertracks CVs.
All the difference in length is made up by the flange(I used the same old stub axles)
But I cant use the "RR" centercaps with alloys.
So, if you plan on running boost wheels....measure first.

.
 

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Jan 3, 2005
11,727
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On Kennith's private island
I don't know if this is correct or not, but I believe the stub axles are the same on your truck vs something like a D-90 or D1. The difference may only be in the drive-flange. Suffix A and Suffix B are two different sizes. Suffix A flanges are found on D1's and D-90's while Suffix B's are found on older 110's, 101's, etc.. The Suffix B flange fits the 2522 CV's.

Get the Ashcroft inner axles and CV's. There are many manufacturers out there and I'm sure their product is good. But Ashcroft has stood the test of time from a business stand point. Perfect example is Rovertracks - although their axles were fine, what good is a warranty if the company is no longer in business?

Ashcroft has a pretty sweet locker out there, too. ARB's would be my #2 choice.

Ol skool debate between having a DT and TT vs selectable lockers. IMO there is no debate, selectable lockers are far superior. IMO, a TT is a worthless piece of shit for a truck being used off-road. Now don't get me wrong, it's a nice carrier if you need a new carrier to replace your stock carrier. But for off-road use it's a POS.

I could go either way with the DT. The DT being mechanical it may ultimately be more reliable. Maybe. I've broken a DT. They almost always break if you snap an axle and that's how mine broke. I doubt you'd ever break the Ashcroft locker. Seeing as you drive a 5-speed truck the DT will make more noise than it would in an auto box truck. Not really a bad thing, but it can be annoying. You really can't go wrong with either carrier for the rear of your truck.

I'd send Dave an email directly to see what kind of deal he'd give you on a package.

If you end up going with Dave's lockers, consider fab'ing up a York air pump on the 300tdi. I've never seen it done before. It would be a sweet option on your truck. With a York pump and small reserve tank you'd have the ultimate on-board air set-up capable of running air tools on the trail.
 

chris snell

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Aug 15, 2005
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Looks like Ashcroft makes a drop-in replacement for the 2522 CVs:

http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/cv-joints/cv-early-pair.html

What I'm unclear about is if I could use my old Rovertracks halfshafts from my old D90 with these. Rovertracks sold some 110 halfshafts that were 24-spline on the diff side and 23-spline on the CV side. No idea if these are the same ones that Keith sold for D90s. Seems like they would be the same, right?

Those Ashcroft diffs are nice but I'm pretty sure that they're overkill for what I do in this truck. It's a 300Tdi--there's not a lot of tire spinning and bouncing or even what you would call rock crawling. It's mostly rough desert roads. I still have my old TT out of my NAS truck, ready to put in the 110.
 

Nomar

Well-known member
Apr 23, 2004
6,067
3
Virginia
Looks like Ashcroft makes a drop-in replacement for the 2522 CVs:

http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/cv-joints/cv-early-pair.html

What I'm unclear about is if I could use my old Rovertracks halfshafts from my old D90 with these. Rovertracks sold some 110 halfshafts that were 24-spline on the diff side and 23-spline on the CV side. No idea if these are the same ones that Keith sold for D90s. Seems like they would be the same, right?

^ Those are the 2522's I have ^
I might have gotten one of the first sets of Ashcroft HD's.

I re-used my RoverTracks inners with the Ashcroft CVs.

.
 

jymmiejamz

Well-known member
Dec 5, 2004
5,817
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Los Angeles, Ca
Why not just get a used Disco axle and put the D90 callipers on it? All of your stuff should swap over. The only issue I could see would be the different size radius arms, but I have used a diamond burr bit in a die grinder to enlarge the frame end to accept the newer radius arms.
 

chris snell

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Aug 15, 2005
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That's a possibility but there's really nothing wrong with my axle housing and I'd hate to grind on my nice, new galvy frame.

I'm digging the Ashcroft lockers.
 

Ren Ching

Well-known member
Nov 23, 2007
288
2
Washington DC
Chris,

To use the Rover tracks front axles you'll need the front stub axles, front hubs, and front drive flange from a US Discovery or d90. I did the exact same conversion on my 1984 d90 that had the same axles shafts and CVs as your 110.

The 110 stuff as already posted here is 10 spline inner, 23 spline where the halfshaft goes into the CV and 24 spline at the drive flange end.

I would just go get that stuff from a junkyard (that's what I did) but if you can't easily do that, I have a set of them that I could box up and send you for a fair price. Not sure what that is but I do have a set.

As you suspect, the stub shafts on your truck are too long and aren't set up to work with the later 24 spline stuff. And once you change stub shafts you need to change the hubs too.

Hope that makes sense, let me know if you have any questions.
 

jafir

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May 4, 2011
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Northwest Arkansas
What's different on the frame side of the radius arm from old to new? I didn't have to change anything when I put in a disco axle and disco radius arms.
 

jafir

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May 4, 2011
1,628
0
Northwest Arkansas
I can appreciate that. Just curious, did you have to specify which radius arms you have when you ordered the frame?

I'm still not understanding. The difference between old arms and new arms is at the axle side, not the chassis/frame side. The old arms are about .25" thinner, but they take the same bushings and everything at the chassis side.
 
Jan 3, 2005
11,727
60
On Kennith's private island
This thread is off to a bad start. There is too much misinformation.

Chris,
Can you confirm which front axle you have? I'm assuming you have a Salisbury front axle since you have the AEU2522 CVs?

Does your front axle look like this?

1365174335069.JPG

This will tell us if you have 10-sline or 24-spline axles as there is a huge difference in the diff carriers. Additionally, if you do have Salisbury axles f/r, that's a whole different ball game when it comes to lockers and gears.

attachment.php

It will also tell us which stub axle and radius arms you require.
 

Ren Ching

Well-known member
Nov 23, 2007
288
2
Washington DC
The 2522 CV's were used in most early 110 front axles and I'm pretty sure most early 90 front axles as well. I doubt Chris has a Salisbury front. Most of the MOD trucks use Rover fronts with the Sals reserved for armored vehicles and other heavier than normal variants.

Chris if you want to put a detroit in the Salisbury, my understanding is that it shouldn't require re-setting the backlash as those settings do not need to be disturbed in order to remove the carrier. Once you get the carrier out just split the two halves and replace the spiders with the detroit unit. Not sure if that is the same for a true trac though.
 
Jan 3, 2005
11,727
60
On Kennith's private island
The 2522 CV's were used in most early 110 front axles and I'm pretty sure most early 90 front axles as well. I doubt Chris has a Salisbury front. Most of the MOD trucks use Rover fronts with the Sals reserved for armored vehicles and other heavier than normal variants.

Make sense, although I know I've seen some front Sals in Defender pick ups.

I never knew they put the 2522's in the rover housing from the factory. I thought they were reserved for the "1-ton" Sals. I put a set of the 2522's in one of my Disco's once and snapped them almost instantly.

If I were you, Chris, I would ditch that Sals rear you have. Those things are a potato plow. Some sucker on D-90 Source or Expo would buy that thing up in a minute and you could use the cash to buy your new gear. A Disco/RRC/D90 rear is a dime a dozen and someone would probably just give you one for free. I know you're all into keeping shit authentic, but that axle on your truck is a joke.
 

jymmiejamz

Well-known member
Dec 5, 2004
5,817
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Los Angeles, Ca
I'm still not understanding. The difference between old arms and new arms is at the axle side, not the chassis/frame side. The old arms are about .25" thinner, but they take the same bushings and everything at the chassis side.

Agree, what's the deal with the chassis end, that is a new one on me.

Must be a Range Rover Classic thing. I remember reading about it on Pirate before I swapped my Toyota axle into my '83 RRC. The bushing was too large on the chassis side, and since rubber doesn't compress, the hole had to be enlarged.
 

chris snell

Administrator
Staff member
Aug 15, 2005
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Holy fuck, just checking back in on this thread.

Of course I have a Sals rear and no, I don't run a Sals in the front. Those came on the 101FC and a few up-armored MOD trucks.

LOL, no fucking way am I ditching the Sals in the rear. It's beefy and perfect for what I do in the truck. I drove all over So. Utah and never once touched that axle.

For the front, my plan is to get the Ashcroft HD 2522 and use my old Truetrac and my old RoverTracks 24/23-spine halfshafts. I'll swap in the stock 3.54 gearing in the diff and selling the 4.11 stuff.

Ashcroft does not make a locker for the Sals, so it's Detroit or TT. I'm going Detroit. I will acquire some 24-spine rear shafts and have a differential shop install the DL in the Sals. I will sell my old DL from my old truck since I no longer need it.

Plan is to pull the housings, radius arms, and maybe the A-arm and get them stripped and mediablasted, then etch/repaint with Eastwood. My Rock Ware HD steering stuff will go on when I reassemble, as well as some extended brake lines and some D90 calipers up front and the DBA rotors that are sitting here in a box. I intend to rebuild the drum brakes in the rear.