Diff gears can be a pain to change and get exactly right. I've also read that the stock 3.54 ratio is the strongest set. I've found 1.4 TCs online for under a grand, and I believe you can just buy the 1.4 gear and swap out the 1.2. I would rather pay someone to set the pinion on a diff gear change than do it myself after hearing stories of incorrectly set swaps. Swapping the diff carrier is easy comparatively, and I have no problem setting backlash. If I was to do a gear change and pay someone, it would cost more than buying a used 1.4TC and putting it in myself. Not to mention, I could probably sell the 1.2TC and get some of my money back. Stock diff gears, however, aren't worth poo.
Suspension question, searched w/o answer
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Diff gears can be a pain to change and get exactly right. I've also read that the stock 3.54 ratio is the strongest set. I've found 1.4 TCs online for under a grand, and I believe you can just buy the 1.4 gear and swap out the 1.2. I would rather pay someone to set the pinion on a diff gear change than do it myself after hearing stories of incorrectly set swaps. Swapping the diff carrier is easy comparatively, and I have no problem setting backlash. If I was to do a gear change and pay someone, it would cost more than buying a used 1.4TC and putting it in myself. Not to mention, I could probably sell the 1.2TC and get some of my money back. Stock diff gears, however, aren't worth poo.
All you are going to get is minutia and opinion. It would still be opinion even if we saw you rig and test drove it.
If the shocks and springs are 11 years old, there is no possible way you still have 2" lift. But also if you have < 2" lift, those tires would run significantly, just over a speed bump.
>>I don't want to change anything afterwards though.
What? Do you mean after you get fed up and sell it or what?
If you go 4.5 and keep those 255/85, then you NEED gears, axles, swivel ball redrill, etc.
I ran 255/85 BFG MT, standard gears, HD axles, ARB F/R, every skid on earth, F/R rockware, sliders, rack, gas, freezer and carried spares.
The biggest thing I did not like was wander (needed swivels redrilled). The truck would easily outperform my driving. You do not need 4.5" lift, IMO it will be a nightmare for you with out the swivels.
Do you still have swaybars?
Bri, Yes I still have both my sways on. By not changing anything afterwards, I meant that I don't want it to snowball. I know that is easier said than done, however. To be honest 255/85 is the biggest tire I will ever go on it, so I would like to make those work well for minimum cost. I agree the suspension is probably shot. It would be nice to know the stock height from the wheel center to fender lip, so I can compare.
Yeah, I've realized that, so I'm not going that route. Probably just a 2-2.5'' lift with Fox or Bilstein shocks, and extended bump stops will be it.
Look at my Gallery and you will see my rig before 255/85 and before A SHIT PILE of driveline work. It kicked ass and that is what I would recommend you do. It was 2-3" with 235//85 and a bad ass center of gravity, I just used the winch a little more since it was open diff.
4.5" lift is also pointless with sways or without disconnects.. Maybe fact, but IMO.
Have you driven any rigs that you would like to emulate? With your desired lift, shocks and tires? You should.
http://www.discoweb.org/briandickens/qtrview.jpg
4.5" lift is also pointless with sways or without disconnects.. Maybe fact, but IMO.
Have you driven any rigs that you would like to emulate? With your desired lift, shocks and tires? You should.
http://www.discoweb.org/briandickens/qtrview.jpg
Do you know what's involved in a "weak ass carrier" change? I'm thinking you should do less iterweb surfing and more wrenching. But hell I could be wrong. I've been stuck at home for four days w/nothing more than a kegerator due to the ice-apocalypse.
My rig was setup by the original owner with the 1.4 Defender case (and the 4.whatever Maxi Drive low range gears), stock 3.54 gears on ARB locker, and 255/85s.
I've had a couple of differential issues in the past, and I'll say it was damn handy to grab a stock 3rd to toss in while the repair (once for a locker, once for lost teeth on a ring gear) was being made.
For me, that's the advantage of keeping the stock 3rd gears and going with a 1.4 case. The downfall is if you don't go with a different set of low range gears (which are pricy), then your low range performance suffers... just have to take a hard look at how you plan to use your rig and if that low range impact matters or not.
I've had a couple of differential issues in the past, and I'll say it was damn handy to grab a stock 3rd to toss in while the repair (once for a locker, once for lost teeth on a ring gear) was being made.
For me, that's the advantage of keeping the stock 3rd gears and going with a 1.4 case. The downfall is if you don't go with a different set of low range gears (which are pricy), then your low range performance suffers... just have to take a hard look at how you plan to use your rig and if that low range impact matters or not.
Yeah, I changed my own in about an hour and a half. It isn't that hard. Changing a full gear set requires resetting the pinion gear which requires the use of a massive torque wrench (bigger than 1/2''). I also rebuilt and stroked my entire engine which can mostly be done with tools you'd already own. I'm sure I could do a pinion gear change, but I don't think the pros out way the cons enough to do it.
And this as well. Would suck to be waiting for a new expensive set of 4.11s in the mail while not being able to drive when instead you could just pick up a 3rd member at a junkyard for cheap.
this is why I did the rovotas instead of regear the rover diff, and it paid off when I was able to find a replacement 3rd in Ouray and salvage a vacation and drive home.
That's probably true, but why go through the trouble of replacing two diff gears for a slight increase from 3.54 to 3.9? Not to mention, while doing that you are also slightly weakening the diff's breaking point, and crossing the line of no junkyard parts available. With a 1.4 TC, you get the equivalent of a 4.21 diff gear change while eliminating those other negatives. Also, if you ever get the itch for massive tires, you can swap the TC again to a 1.667 ratio and get the equivalent of a 5.12 diff gear change. There is also a good chance this would cost nothing because many guys with 1.667 are willing to trade down evenly.
Nope. That picture is Trxus MT(Pieces of shit) 235/85 and OME 2" and a pile of armor. Tucked perfectly. It was a killer setup.
http://www.discoweb.org/briandickens/poser2.jpg
I went 255/85 and had a snowball, as you would say. The project did not end until I sold it.
I listened to the guys here and built it up. Peops on the board help me setup the diffs/lockers and so on. Pretty fun, but no longer have the time. You'll be lucky if you get that kind of assistance these days.
The more you invest, the more you will need to spend keeping it up.... if you really use it.
Read what we say and take it for what it is worth. YMMV. If you are lucky enough to get candid advice from some "old timers", you can almost take it as gospel... of course ignore chapmen, LOL.
I agree with the others... on the 3.54 gear thing. I ran my stock ratio with 255/85.. Just had to get into 4500/5000 in the mountains, but my engine was never an issue. I ran a ton of tough trails. I did blow one diff, but the drive shaft, was likely the culprit (along with my stupidity).
Think about the trails that you want to run and how easy they will be looking "stealth" vs huge. 255/85 will run some of the most difficult trails in N.A. if done right. Unless you WANT to run them don't build your disco to do them. My gallery lists the minor stuff I had at the time. Pretty simple.
NATO wheels -- 235/85-16 Interco Trxus M/Ts
Castor Alloys -- 245/75-16 BFG ATs
OME HD Springs & Shocks
Superwinch X9
Rockware front and rear Bumpers
Rockware front and rear skidplates
Rockware sliders
Rockware catalytic converter skidplate
Antisways removed
The driveway pictures are 245/75. I liked the 235/85 better, those are the poser pics from Wheeler Lake.
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Thanks, yeah I got started with a D2 a couple years ago, sold it, and now a D1. My truck now actually sits like the one in your pics, but it has 255/85s on it. Anyhow, I'm gonna keep it simple for now, and just trim out for D2 flares. After that I can see where it is. Maybe that's all I need (besides bump stops). As far as sinking money into it, I hear ya. I'm already in it for well more than it's worth, so now it's something I can customize how I want without worrying a lot about resale.
Sorry I edited to show how simple my first setup was. It is somewhat hard for me to believe you can do 255 with only 2". That would have been horrific for mine, even with the rear quarter trimmed for the rockware bumper.
Post some pics of your 2" and 255 or I may not believe you.
EDIT:: I forgot you are trimming. The only trimming I did, even with 255 was for the rear rockware bumper, which required cutting the rear quarter panel to the black trim piece. If you want this kind of rear bumper, I just happen to have one,.
Post some pics of your 2" and 255 or I may not believe you.
EDIT:: I forgot you are trimming. The only trimming I did, even with 255 was for the rear rockware bumper, which required cutting the rear quarter panel to the black trim piece. If you want this kind of rear bumper, I just happen to have one,.
to not start another thread do shocks creak like hell when it's cold? Went over a few speed bumps this morning and they made an awful noise. It was 9 degrees at the time so hopefully that's all it was