how many of you have put plugs in and gotten rid of the oil cooler? My lines are leaking and thinking of just plugging it all together, its my daily driver.
to cap or not to cap oilcooler?
- Thread starter fordbuilder98
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ptschram
Well-known member
Well, if you plug the fittings, you won't need to worry about leaks when the bearings spin.
You will surprisingly find trouble keeping the engine cool. When I first put the 3.9 in my LWB, I bypassed the oil cooler and found that the oil cooler cools a lot more than I expected.
Buy some compression fittings and some hydraulic hose...
You will surprisingly find trouble keeping the engine cool. When I first put the 3.9 in my LWB, I bypassed the oil cooler and found that the oil cooler cools a lot more than I expected.
Buy some compression fittings and some hydraulic hose...
the hoses are a bit much I have been meaning to go to a local tractor hydraulic supply shop and see how much it would be to make new ones in blue thanks P.T.
ptschram
Well-known member
fordbuilder98 said:
I've probably got $20 or $30 in mine, compression fittings, hose barbs, hydraulic hose. I'm almost to the point of not having any leaks on my truck. Just a few drips from the tranny lines and the fittings are in the parts room waiting for the time.
The nice thing about hose barbs is that if the hose becomes compromised, it's nothing to slip the hose off and slide a new piece on.
the guys running rover engines in sports cars always have cooling issue untill they cool the oil as well as the water.
these things have the smallest water jackets you will ever see in a V8 engine.
these things have the smallest water jackets you will ever see in a V8 engine.
ptschram
Well-known member
MUSKYMAN said:
Well Thom, as you know, I rarely believe something until I see it myself:smilelol:
I was really surprised when I found such a problem cooling the engine until I hooked up the oil cooler. Convinced me!
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2FUELS
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Fitting/Barb sizes? Hose I.D.? Oil cooler/Trans cooler lines are on my list... actually, it may be easier to list whats NOT on my list.
ptschram
Well-known member
The hard lines are 1/2" OD. You'll want 1/2" steel compression fittings (my hydraulic guys are adamant about using steel compression fittings on steel lines-in spite of my telling them of so many situations where brass ferrules are used on steel lines). The compression fititngs will likely have a pipe thread fitting on them. The larger the better (within reason). I prefer 1/2" NPT to reduce flow restriction. Hose barbs, 1/2" , with mating pipe threads to mate to the compression fittings. If I'm felling particularly anal, I'll sweat or braze the fittings together, but pipe dope is plenty!
1/2" ID hydraulic hose. Gates LOLA+ is what I've used the vast majority of the times as I had a supplier for it that was so cheap it wasn't funny. Most all of your hydraulic hoses will be compatible with both engine oil and tranny fluid.
GO forth and fix your leaks!
1/2" ID hydraulic hose. Gates LOLA+ is what I've used the vast majority of the times as I had a supplier for it that was so cheap it wasn't funny. Most all of your hydraulic hoses will be compatible with both engine oil and tranny fluid.
GO forth and fix your leaks!
2
2FUELS
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ptschram
Well-known member
fordbuilder98 said:
Compression fittings use a ferrule and threaded fitting to clamp onto the line without needing any heat. You could just use hose barbs and braze them onto the steel lines as well, but the compression fittings are less intensive.
I was under the impression that the oil cooler wasn't there to cool the oil at all, hence not all trucks having them. I have been told it is there simply to speed up the warming up of the engine. Could be wrong but this makes sense.
ptschram
Well-known member
If that was the case, then the common mod to replace the sandwidch plate with one that includes a thermostatic thingy that _only_ let the oil go to the oil cooler when the oil is hot would not make sense.lwg said:
I added an oil cooler to my other non rover car, it takes longer to warm up due to more oil capacity and the fact that the oil cooler diverter valve even when cold lets oil flow thru my cooler ata slower rate
when hot it opens up(thermostat like internals)
does help keep my oil much cooler than without, esp being a turbo it makes a world of difference on performace
when hot it opens up(thermostat like internals)
does help keep my oil much cooler than without, esp being a turbo it makes a world of difference on performace
ptschram
Well-known member
MonLand said:
Be nice to Larry, he's probably suffering from culture shock having recently moved to the land of Liberals and rain.
Cut off Rover "bumped tube" ends off hard lines - weld on male JIC adapter and then use common 1-wire hydraulic hose with female JIC (most common hyd fitting in existence). The thread on the output of the Rover sandwich plate is 16mmx 1.5mm straight thread and adpaters from that to male-JIC are available without too much effort. Makes for a neat install with no crazy bullshit.
I've done a bunch of trucks worth of trans cooler and oil cooler lines this way over the years - none leak. Trans coolers are a bit different to adapt though.
Bill
I've done a bunch of trucks worth of trans cooler and oil cooler lines this way over the years - none leak. Trans coolers are a bit different to adapt though.
Bill