WTF is with my oil light now

[psykokid]

You're already one third of the way there with the pan dropped, you might as well go all the way ad pull the front cover and check the oil pump for good measure. If the oil pump is within spec then next thing would be to check main and rod bearings for wear.

The design for these engines is essentially 50 years old, they are low tech motors. Sure they have more sensors and garbage grafted on over the years for emissons bs but its still a really basic pushrod v8 with sloppy loose tolerences.. I never run anything lighter than 15W40 in my truck, sometimes i run 20/50 in the summer or if im going to be doing a lot of heavy offroading or lots of long hill climbs on a trip i'll pony up and run liquimoly 10/60 with a good quality filter like a wix/mann/mahle

 

[Racer X]

Heavy knock + loss of power + oil light?

You've the oil pan off, I'd pull the #7 and #8 rod caps and inspect the bearings for damage, mic the crank for wear, etc.

Good luck, but if you ran it until you lost power, your prospects of no engine damage are pretty low.

 

[Beagle Bones]

The one and only time I took my '04 to a quick change Oil shop my truck was fucked. I'd never had oil light issues until then. It started coming on as soon as I started the truck when they were done. They had not used the weight of oil I had asked for either. My light would come on intermittently, especially on hill climbs. No noticeable loss in power though. Turns out my oil pump broke. Since you are that far in just pull the cover like others have said already.

Seems like I recall that LR states replace/refill the filter before draining/filling the oil to prevent the oil pump from draining. Again I'm going from memory here. I think I read that in the manual or some shit. Disregard if this is BS info

Good luck!!!!!!

 

[forcefed44]

I have the pan off the truck remove the pick up tube and found a bunch of crap some stuff that looks like plastic bag , Im attaching some pics , will clean seal new oil and filter and see what happens if the problem remains oil pump is next before I decided to junk the truck .



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That's rough shi!.. All the quick change places bulk oil it at 5w30 unless you ask for bottle oil (Any weight) then they tack on an exorbitant price addition. I'm an asshole so I watch them pour the oil I spec into the truck but its just a roll of the dice with the places that are out there.. If I don't do it myself (used oil disposal reasoning)... I take it to my friends shop and still watch him change the oil....

I'm headed to Ryans Saturday so if you need a bit of help before hand.. let me know.

Chris

 

[jafir]

If I don't do it myself (used oil disposal reasoning)...

I just drop the used oil off at wal-mart or autozone for free..... now anti freeze, that takes a little more work.

 

[forcefed44]

I just drop the used oil off at wal-mart or autozone for free..... now anti freeze, that takes a little more work.

not when I do oil change day at my place and I change the Benzes oil and they take a 9 quart dumping X 3... not including the smaller displacements.. LOL

I do too much to dump at one local Pepboys and too little to have a professional service pick the oil up.

Chris

 

[Buddy]

now anti freeze, that takes a little more work.

I don't know if you have them near you but Advance Auto Parts will recycle anti freeze at least they do in my neck of the woods.

 

[Colin hughes]

We had a customer with an Audi A4. Religiously changed the oil with Motul and factory filter. They moved down to Nova Scotia and because they needed to do an oil change, went to Mr Lube. Paid extra for premium filter and oil. 1000 kms later the engine stopped. The cheap paper filter they paid extra for sucked into itself and starved the engine of oil. $9000 later for towing, new engine, etc and they are currently fighting with Mr Lube to cover all of it. Do it yourself or go to a reputable shop and pay the extra to have it done right. You'll save in the long run.

 

[group captain mandrake]

I would change my oil at night, in the rain, on the side of the interstate before I would let one of those quick lube places touch my vehicle.
I wouldn't trust them to properly check the air in my tires.

 

[Cris_rrc]

Yes Im going to pull the oil pump since Im there and have a oil pump waiting for me , now I have to research on how to do it never done one before

 

[jafir]

not when I do oil change day at my place and I change the Benzes oil and they take a 9 quart dumping X 3... not including the smaller displacements.. LOL

I do too much to dump at one local Pepboys and too little to have a professional service pick the oil up.

Chris

We take it to auto zone in 5 gallon buckets... it's over their "limit" but they don't seem to care. I've actually gone in with 2 other people, each of us carrying one bucket. Walmart on the other hand is pretty strict about their limits.

 

[jafir]

I don't know if you have them near you but Advance Auto Parts will recycle anti freeze at least they do in my neck of the woods.

I've got a place that will usually take it for me, but if for some reason that changes I'll look into the local Advance. Thanks for the heads up.

 

[d1driver]

Yes Im going to pull the oil pump since Im there and have a oil pump waiting for me , now I have to research on how to do it never done one before

It is really not that tough of a job. Just time consuming and messy. You'll want to cover the floor under truck, unless you are not worried about the floor getting messy.

The very first step should be trying to get the bolt out of the crankshaft pulley on the bottom. If it comes out without much fuss, the radiator can stay in there. If not, the radiator will need pulled to get an impact gun in there. I wedged a 2x4 up in one of the cylinders against the crankshaft to keep the assembly from rolling while trying to get that bolt out.

Leave the water pump bolted to the front cover.

 

[Racer X]

It is really not that tough of a job. Just time consuming and messy. You'll want to cover the floor under truck, unless you are not worried about the floor getting messy.

The very first step should be trying to get the bolt out of the crankshaft pulley on the bottom. If it comes out without much fuss, the radiator can stay in there. If not, the radiator will need pulled to get an impact gun in there. I wedged a 2x4 up in one of the cylinders against the crankshaft to keep the assembly from rolling while trying to get that bolt out.

Leave the water pump bolted to the front cover.

You don't need to remove the radiator to remove the crank bolt, especially with the oil pan dropped. Just wedge a 2x4 between the crank counterweight and the block, and use a breaker bar. Same goes for install and torquing.

If the oil pan is still attached and you need to remove the bolt, use a breaker bar braced against the ground, or against the frame, and with the coils unplugged, or the fuel pump fuse removed, bump the starter to break torque on the bolt.

 

[Cris_rrc]

This is the question before getting involve in all this , what are my chances that after driving the truck like I explain for about 5 to 10 miles with that knocking and lost of power that all it will take is a new oil pump and new oil and filter ?? When I dumped the oil is was black and smell burnt , and this oil was only on the truck for 15 miles .
Now if the engine is shoot Im either looking at another disco or swapping engine , now the engine swap will cost me $1700 labor and engine , this is doing right machining the heads for new gaskets and curing anything that could go wrong before installing it , if I go this way I will have a pretty sound engine if I get another truck not only will I have to swap all my offroad gear but I may end up getting a shitty engine anyway ... So really should I even bother wilth the oil pump or bite the bullet

 

[Cris_rrc]

By the way I pulled this codes after I got home my check engine was not on prior to the oil change P1316 miss fire , P0305 cylinder 5 missfire, P0300 ramdom misfire , P1317 abs rough road line low fault (what this last one has to do with every thing I dont know )

 

[forcefed44]

If you are going to rebuild the engine correctly and spring for top hat sleeves, insuring never a slipped liner.. Buko $$$ but worth it in the long run.. Just make sure you love your truck enough to shell out on the expenditure..

My next HC engine is going to have the top hat liners and serious engine mods to come..

Chris

 

[Racer X]

This is the question before getting involve in all this , what are my chances that after driving the truck like I explain for about 5 to 10 miles with that knocking and lost of power that all it will take is a new oil pump and new oil and filter

Being totally honest?

Nil.

In my eyes, that engine is a write off, save for the accessories, oil pan, intakes, injectors, and rocker covers. I wouldn't even spend time measuring it for wear.

 

[Cris_rrc]

I made a decision and Im just going to used the truck as a parts truck , Im getting another D1 on sunday down south will train there and drive it back home is a 95 SE7 with 76000 miles I got a ton of pics of the typical problem areas and no rust at all only needs a tune up which Im doing before the ride back and a hair crack on the windshield , Im just going to move all my offroad gear into this truck and be done , thank you to every one that reply but is not worth fixing this one .