ZF transmission question

Gordo

Well-known member
Hello, I am having a problem with my auto trans. It started while wheeling a couple weeks ago, when suddenly the truck stopped moving. I orginally thought it was the linkage in the tbox so I double checked all of it and it appears to be working. After pulling the truck out of the shop it worked fine, for a bit, then the same thing happened again. You can put it in D or R but nothing. It sounds like bumble bees in the trans, like its a pressure issue, so I dropped the filter and pan. The oil looked good, but inside the bottom of the pan there was a layer of plastic/carbon crud. The filter looks clogged too. Ive had this truck for probably 9 years and never changed the filter so Im hoping that will do the trick but Im concerned about the shit in the pan. Thinking my clutch pack may have bit the dust but I dont know if this crud might just be normal after all the years. Just seems funny that it suddenly stopped working. Oh yeah and I was pounding on it when it went. Damn mud hole stuck me one, twice and on the third attempt this happened. I plan on just replacing the filter and seeing what happens but is it even worth the hassle? Also is there a way to remove the oil from the torque converter so I can change it all. Thanks Gordo
 
It's almost always worth trying to change the filter and fluid, rather than jumping to swapping the trans. That said, given the material in the bottom of the pan, it doesn't look good for our heroes.

To the best of my knowledge, the only way to flush the torque converter is either remove it and have a trans shop do it (some have a machine to do it), or change the fluid, allow it to drain forever, refill and repeat a couple of times to in effect, dilute the old fluid with new. Three times should do the trick, do it now, before the cost of trans fluid goes up again!

I've found Dave Ashcroft's website to be invaluable for transmission troubleshooting. He tells it like it is and tells you if you can keep driving it, or if continuing will make it worse, or he gives indications fo what has failed and what it will take to fix it.
 

sven

Well-known member
You can fully drain and flush the ZF by disconnecting the cooler line from the radiator. Attached the line to some clear tubing and into a bucket. Start and idle the engine until you drain 2 quarts. Turn off motor and add 2 quarts. Keep doing this until you go through a case of ATF. Then pray that it works! Only do this as a last resort...btw.
 
sven said:
You can fully drain and flush the ZF by disconnecting the cooler line from the radiator. Attached the line to some clear tubing and into a bucket. Start and idle the engine until you drain 2 quarts. Turn off motor and add 2 quarts. Keep doing this until you go through a case of ATF. Then pray that it works! Only do this as a last resort...btw.

Sounds risky to me and a good way to make one hell of a mess!
 

sven

Well-known member
Actually Ive done this many times. I used to work the the auto-trans rebuilding industry about 10 years ago and thats what most shops did before fancy fluid flushing machines. The best part is, its clean and you dont have to go under the vehicle either.
 

BaldEagle

Well-known member
Sep 13, 2004
2,824
0
Atlanta, GA
i need to at least change the fluid in mine, how much will drain by removing the plug and how much goes back in? anybody know? sorry for the hijack.
 

Gordo

Well-known member
Thanks Guys, I went through Daves page as I found it on a search. Thats why Im thinking the clutch pack may be toasted. I ordered the filter and gasket kit so Im keeping my fingers crossed. Thankfully, I have an extra trans in the shop so worse case scenario I can flip that in, but I will give the filter/fluid a shot first. Much appreciated. Gordo
 

MUSKYMAN

Well-known member
Apr 19, 2004
8,277
0
OverBarrington IL
sorry but I wouldent wast the time trying anything if there is debris in the pan.

the thing is toast and needs to be rebuilt or replaced.

debris in the pan is a ticking time bomb and even if you can get it to drive to the corner 7-11 its going to fail at some point.
 
sven said:
Actually Ive done this many times. I used to work the the auto-trans rebuilding industry about 10 years ago and thats what most shops did before fancy fluid flushing machines. The best part is, its clean and you dont have to go under the vehicle either.

LOL, I've done many things many times, in some cases, they're things I don't wanna do again, or wouldn't tell someone else to do.

I don't doubt it works, but if my personal experiences of flushing coolers is any indication, it's a good way to make a mess (yes, I had hoses rigged up, still wore ATF!).

This also assumes the fittings aren't rusted solid to the radiator, an all too common occurrence in this part of the world.
 

Gordo

Well-known member
MUSKYMAN said:
sorry but I wouldent wast the time trying anything if there is debris in the pan.

the thing is toast and needs to be rebuilt or replaced.

debris in the pan is a ticking time bomb and even if you can get it to drive to the corner 7-11 its going to fail at some point.


Thats exactly what I was worried about Thom. I looked a bit closer today at the damage and there are small pieces that arent "powdery" but small flakes I cant break apart. Im pretty sure one of the clutches grenaded. Im going to use the new filter in my xtra trans and just replace it to be safe. As much as diesel costs these days, I dont want to trailer it up and break on the first hole again! That just sucks! Plus Ive already got an extra trans so it will be cheaper that way vs 2 filters and two oil changes! Gordo
 
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Gordo

Well-known member
BaldEagle said:
i need to at least change the fluid in mine, how much will drain by removing the plug and how much goes back in? anybody know? sorry for the hijack.


Its usually around 5 quarts, but go slow as you dont want to overfill it and the line from the bottom of the dipstick to the full mark is only about 1/4 quart or so! Gordo