4.6 cam in 4.0 engine

D Chapman said:
As for you push rod story. Push rods wear. That's why it says to put the push rods back exactly from where they came from in your Haynes Manuel post above. If you put a push rod from cylinder 8 in cylinders 1 position, the wear patterns on the rockers/push rods may not mate. That's because the rods have worn. Sometimes this will make a tick in the engine, other times it will not. But why fuck around at all? It's $100; I put that much in the fuel tank last week. It's not like these are $1,000. It's $100. For $100 I'll pay for the peace of mind. The same thing could be said about head-bolts. Some people have had good luck reusing head-bolts. Not me! Why would you even risk it? It's $90, just buy new ones.

If you are reusing push rods you're a hack. You may as well reuse the spark plugs, oil filter, main seals, and valve cover gaskets, too.

Shit, remind me to never buy a set of reconditioned cylinder heads from you. It's hard to tell what kind of corners you cut there.

You're an ignorant hack. If you're so concerned about noise from the valvetrain, you ought to be replacing the rocker shafts and rocker arms as they wear just as much, if not more than the pushrods.

I've had far more problems with rocker arms and shafts than I have ever seen with pushrods. The noise you're so annoyed by is more than likely from the rocker shafts/arms than the pushords, but OMG, rocker arms and shafts are expensive, but I can buy pushrods fairly inexpensively so I'll just assume that's where all the noise is coming from.

Haynes manual, eh? If you had ever bothered to open the FSM or the overhaul manual, you'd have known that was from the LAND ROVER FACTORY OVERHAUL MANUAL. Maybe your new wife types all this stuff for you as I'm not sure you know how to read.
 
Jan 3, 2005
11,746
73
On Kennith's private island
Guess what, PT. My truck does not make noise. No ticking. No knocking. No cam walking. No random shit that calls for a tow truck. Lets look back on you posts and count how many times you've broken down in the past 6 months. That's laughable right there. Just goes to show who the hack really is.

$100 break your bank, Paul? I guess business is not as good as you say.

"LAND ROVER FACTORY OVERHAUL MANUAL"
You referring to RAVE? Do you follow this step-by-step on everything you do? You do not question anything you find in this program? Ever?
 

turbodave

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2008
325
3
KY
Still waiting on that length so I can verify that my pushrods are worn... If not, how do we know they are sevicable? How do we know your new high quality pushrods are within the factory tolerances?

Just because it says allmakes on the box, doesn't make it 'quality' - but for you to continue to spout your opinion as gospel, without supporting information (note - supporting information to back up if a pushrod is worn is not 'internet seraches' about changing them, but a defined length) is well, arrogant....

I'm sure you will not call me a hack again - but once again - I can't find anything about length, so instead check they are straight, inspect the ends, then check my lifter pre-load, which more than compensates for my pushrods deviation from the factory tolerances for pushrod length (which you will supply shortly I'm sure).
 
Jan 3, 2005
11,746
73
On Kennith's private island
LOL, what are you going to do with push rod length? You think push rods are going to wear a 1/4" or something? If a push rod wears down even .005" you'll hear it before you get a chance to measure it.

The reason you'll swap out push rods is because of wear patterns. If lifter A puts a wear pattern on your push rod, and then you replace that lifter with Lifter B, the rod is not going to sit just right in the lifter. But if you just replace the push rods when you install new lifters you will not need to worry about it. It's like putting new brake pads on used rotors; people do it and it works, but it does not work nearly as well as turning the rotors or replacing the rotors altogether. Over time you'll develop a tick, then a rattle, then you'll end up at PT's shop getting bent over the work bench until you just give him your Rover so he can come back to Dweb and tell everyone he bought a new truck like we care.

Push rods are not a serviceable part. It's a part that wears. Over time these non-serviceable parts need to be replaced. The things are $8ea. If you do not see a need to just swap them out, then I have some used lifters, used rod bearings, and used spark plug wires I can sell you for a good price. They all measure to within spec, I'm sure.
 

robertf

Well-known member
Jan 22, 2006
4,798
366
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D Chapman said:
Push rods are not a serviceable part. It's a part that wears. Over time these non-serviceable parts need to be replaced.

What maintenance schedule are you looking at?
 

robertf

Well-known member
Jan 22, 2006
4,798
366
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D Chapman said:
The same one that tells you when to replace rod and crank bearings.

when the clearances exceed .0021 and .002, don't see anything about the pushrods.
 

FB111

Well-known member
Jun 7, 2004
475
0
The preload in the lifter will account for wear in the valve train. I have never experiened a bent pushrod and have never replaced any. Never had any pushrod related failures either. The weirdest pushrod tale I have is running used long pushrods from a big block chevy in a 351 windsor I had.
 
D Chapman said:
LOL, what are you going to do with push rod length? You think push rods are going to wear a 1/4" or something? If a push rod wears down even .005" you'll hear it before you get a chance to measure it.

The reason you'll swap out push rods is because of wear patterns. If lifter A puts a wear pattern on your push rod, and then you replace that lifter with Lifter B, the rod is not going to sit just right in the lifter. But if you just replace the push rods when you install new lifters you will not need to worry about it. It's like putting new brake pads on used rotors; people do it and it works, but it does not work nearly as well as turning the rotors or replacing the rotors altogether. Over time you'll develop a tick, then a rattle, then you'll end up at PT's shop getting bent over the work bench until you just give him your Rover so he can come back to Dweb and tell everyone he bought a new truck like we care.

Push rods are not a serviceable part. It's a part that wears. Over time these non-serviceable parts need to be replaced. The things are $8ea. If you do not see a need to just swap them out, then I have some used lifters, used rod bearings, and used spark plug wires I can sell you for a good price. They all measure to within spec, I'm sure.

Once again, you just proved the depths of your ignorance.

You're so concerned about the wear at the lifter, what about at the rocker arm??? The rocker arm also has two wear surfaces, but even though we grind the end of the valves, we don't replace the rocker arms, now do we?

Just because your clients can't complain is no reason to demean me. Must be nice to never have to worry about complaints from one's clients.
 
Jan 3, 2005
11,746
73
On Kennith's private island
Paul,
Show me a worn out rocker from push rods pushing on them. Please!!

If you change a leaky thermostat gasket, do you reuse the old thermostat? Or do you just go ahead and replace it? Why?

PT said:
You're so concerned about the wear at the lifter, what about at the rocker arm??? The rocker arm also has two wear surfaces, but even though we grind the end of the valves, we don't replace the rocker arms, now do we?

LMAO!! What does grinding the valves have to do with rocker arms? Do you even know what a valve job is, Paul?

But for the record, if I'm tearing into an engine and grinding valves, the exhaust valves are going to be replaced regardless. No if, ands, or buts. They're like $16ea for a the "new'er" carbon cutting valves, that's cheap. Chances are a few are going to be bent anyway. If I'm going to spend $300 on a head refurbish anyway, another $130 is not going to break the bank. It's worth it. Only a hack such as yourself would "get by" with reusing old shit in a new rebuild. It's no wonder you have complaints.
 

robertf

Well-known member
Jan 22, 2006
4,798
366
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D Chapman said:
LMAO!! What does grinding the valves have to do with rocker arms? Do you even know what a valve job is, Paul?

when you grind the exhaust seat or the face, the stem will sit higher in the block and often gets machined to correct the length. You then have a previously worn surface mating to a freshly machined surface. It's not a problem, nor is a new lifter riding against a previously worn push rod.
 

wheelen disco

Well-known member
Jun 20, 2010
1,089
0
rice lake Wisconsin
About 10 years ago when I was 14 I went with my uncle to see his 500something cubic inch Keith black hemi dyno tested. After a warm up and 3 or 4 dyno runs they changed the cam. And they reused the pushrods, fucking hacks! And that was a 1,300 HP alcohol burning all aluminum engine.
 

pdxrovermech

Well-known member
Jul 3, 2009
1,807
57
Portland, OR
ptschram said:
Especially your father!:rofl:

The 4.2 he built that Slade blew up is still running strong with a Crower 230 in it.

how is Slade doing? He was doing some extreme stuff for a while there, but i dont think i've seen him in like 15 years.
 

RWF

Well-known member
Mar 10, 2005
132
0
Colorado
jafir said:
:deadhorse:

So which cam is the original poster supposed to use again? I forgot.

Crower 229 or 230, Stock 4.6 or 4.0 ?
I asked my 8 ball repeatedly as there was no clear winner here, and finally a winner emerged. For fear of actually being, rather than just being called a hack, I'm keeping it to myself. Why tell others your problems as half don't care and the other half are glad they're your problems. If the new one works maybe I will be brave enough to share after reporting on pushrod condition, which may take a while as my team of evaluating double blind scientists are on vacation. All of this started 'cause of a little coolant leak and messy front cover, 1 thing leading to 10 others as it was also time to get the transm. fluid and filter changed. Nothing more fun than getting the exhaust off laying on my back. Fun Fun Fun Fun Fun.
 

RWF

Well-known member
Mar 10, 2005
132
0
Colorado
rover4x4 said:
it helps if you glue the ypipe gaskets to the manifolds if youre fighting them alone
I aaaume you mean on the re orbit entry (putting the y pipe back on)?
What glue?