I put a dab of black rtv on the outer edge of the bolt holes, press the gasket on there and let it sit for awhile.
4.6 cam in 4.0 engine
- Thread starter RWF
- Start date
Verdict is in, pushrods look really good, probably 'cause I ordered new ones. But the valve covers, intake and intake ports on heads are black and nasty grimey and sooty. How's come? I know these rigs have a reputation for running dirty, not sure why..Bottom end has 165k, valves were redone about 60k ago and truck ran good w/good emissions #'s here in Colorado. No smoking or excessive oil use. Plan was/ is to just put in a new cam, lifters , gears and chain(was pretty loose), crank seal and water pump and drive on down the road. Please don't tell me to redo more stuff (heads, bottom end) this all started w/just a leaky water pump.
i just bend them in the middle real good so that when i push them over the studs it holds itself in place.RWF said:
So how long on average should a valve job last? Am I nuts for not pulling the heads now even though it was running great, valves done about 60k ago? Leave well enough alone/don't fix what works? I don't see signs of leaky head gaskets. I also try to keep the dirt on the outside, but man is the intake stuff crap filled. Normal?
ptschram
Well-known member
If you're that concerned, remove the oil pan, hose everything down with diesel fuel, go over it with a brush, let it sit overnight, reassemble.
Don't pull the heads without good cause.
Don't pull the heads without good cause.
The dirt is primarily coming from unfiltered air ie, bad air filter/seal, broken vacuum lines, etc. Also could be from valves not completely seating.
I suspected as much and maybe a bit of blow by the rings. I would like to clean the head intake ports without pulling heads off, not sure how to do that without getting a bunch of crap down in the cylinders.RoverbyProxy said:
Diesel fuel in them? Would that hurt?
ptschram
Well-known member
B
barefoot
Guest
i reused my pushrods when i swapped cams (they were not bent nor were the ends worn) @ 130k and am now at 175k....no issues 
thank you, come again...
thank you, come again...
I used to work cable construction, and when they would swamp the big d8's and get water in the oil they would drain the oil and fill the crankcase with diesel. I seen it happen about six times, and the motors would run just like they had oil in them.
wheelen disco said:
Yes, but that would be a heavy duty diesel engine, not a super sensitive Rover motor that has a panic attack when it comes in contact with anything misterious like a fart.
ptschram
Well-known member
wheelen disco said:
Following that old wive's tale cost me a broken crankshaft in one of my Chevys.
Oil belongs in sumps, nothing less, nothing more (well, maybe some Lucas).
ptschram said:
No I'm not recommending anything, actually I was quite impressed that it didn't seize or spin a bearing.
It's alive/back from the all day sucker/month+ project. I went w/stock 4.0 cam as Mr.More experience than me said anything else could cause emissions test problems here in Colorado. Oh well now who's the hack? Come to find out the cam must have been replaced around 90k (166k now) but it did have some worn lobes and a couple of bent push rods.Runs a bit quieter/better but scared the crap out o me at startup. After hemming and hawing about packing the oil pump w/vaseline, I put it in. Hand cranked it, cranked it multiple times w/fuel and plugs disconnected and never got oil pressure. Decided to what the hell hook it up and fire it up, took forever but finally got pressure. My neighbor who builds Bonneville salt flats racers said he would never use the vaseline.Never put stuff in a motor that ain't supposed to be there. Naturally he thinks the vaseline was a bad idea. I even filled the oil cooler so what was the deal? No I don't think the sender was the issue as the motor sounded like crap until pressure came up. Now that's a good bedtime story don't you think?
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Well anytime you have an oil pump up in the front cover like on that buick engine you should get something in the pump to help it prime itself. I would much rather have a little vasoline in my first oil than run my new engine dry for one more second than I need to.