I woudl say yes.
Of hand I cannot think of a diesel oil that wouldnt have a sheer rating to satisfy Rovers V8.
Of hand I cannot think of a diesel oil that wouldnt have a sheer rating to satisfy Rovers V8.
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Dealer says my engine is leaking oil because it is synthetic.. BS?
- Thread starter Jupiter Rover
- Start date
I've been using this stuff: chevron Delo 400 LE
https://www.cbest.chevron.com/generated/MSDS/PDS29828846.PDF
the API CJ-4 spec calls for 3.5 sheer rating minimum.. but the chevron site doesn't list it as far as I can see.
my local costco sells it for about $60 for 6 gallons... not a bad deal.
https://www.cbest.chevron.com/generated/MSDS/PDS29828846.PDF
the API CJ-4 spec calls for 3.5 sheer rating minimum.. but the chevron site doesn't list it as far as I can see.
my local costco sells it for about $60 for 6 gallons... not a bad deal.
You guys are totally getting the point!
Advertising Hype and Brand loyalty is misleading. Many people claim that they have been using the same oil for decades without any problem. The reality is that many oil products that appear to be identical are not. A "Brand X" often has more than one "5W-30 Super Syncopowertec XL" product. The two products often appear to be identical but one meets very different ratings than the other. The only way to tell the difference is to understand the following oil service ratings that will be listed on the back of higher quality oil products:
GM 4718M, LL-A-025, LL-B-025
Ford/WSS-M2C153-H, M2C931-A, M2C913-A
VW 502, 503, 503.01, 505, 505.01
BMW LL-98, LL-01, LL-04
MB 229.1, 229.3, 229.31, 229.5, 229.51
ACEA A1/B1, A3/B3, A3/B4, C1, C2, C3
Honda HTO-06
All of the above ratings greatly exceed any API or ILSAC approval. And, these more stringent approvals are required for many modern vehicles. They indicate very significant improvements in areas such as valve train protection, engine cooling, fuel efficiency, extended oil drain intervals, oxidation, extreme temperature capability and acid neutralizing. SAE, API and ILSAC approval is no longer adequate!
Can you tell when I use Word to spellcheck my posts?
Advertising Hype and Brand loyalty is misleading. Many people claim that they have been using the same oil for decades without any problem. The reality is that many oil products that appear to be identical are not. A "Brand X" often has more than one "5W-30 Super Syncopowertec XL" product. The two products often appear to be identical but one meets very different ratings than the other. The only way to tell the difference is to understand the following oil service ratings that will be listed on the back of higher quality oil products: GM 4718M, LL-A-025, LL-B-025
Ford/WSS-M2C153-H, M2C931-A, M2C913-A
VW 502, 503, 503.01, 505, 505.01
BMW LL-98, LL-01, LL-04
MB 229.1, 229.3, 229.31, 229.5, 229.51
ACEA A1/B1, A3/B3, A3/B4, C1, C2, C3
Honda HTO-06
All of the above ratings greatly exceed any API or ILSAC approval. And, these more stringent approvals are required for many modern vehicles. They indicate very significant improvements in areas such as valve train protection, engine cooling, fuel efficiency, extended oil drain intervals, oxidation, extreme temperature capability and acid neutralizing. SAE, API and ILSAC approval is no longer adequate!
Can you tell when I use Word to spellcheck my posts?
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Well, to be fair, I have a Element Now... And, I have only been studying this with vigor about the last year.
If I had my Rover, and in the Future Side jobs I do, I will default to Rotella T 15-40, Changed about every 3,000. Most cars are ok at 5,000 because the oils are better and the engines run closer to Stoich then 20-30 years ago. But, Rovers tend to run rich, and that comtaminates the oil.
If I had my Rover, and in the Future Side jobs I do, I will default to Rotella T 15-40, Changed about every 3,000. Most cars are ok at 5,000 because the oils are better and the engines run closer to Stoich then 20-30 years ago. But, Rovers tend to run rich, and that comtaminates the oil.
Well, Shucks Jen, Since you are "As Tight as you are White" Maybe we can have a few drinks and we can explore all kind of Lubricates. Might bring a whole new meaning to SHEER rating.
Might bring a whole new meaning to SHEER rating.
Dont feel alone. I didnt know better on quite a few I owned/Serviced untill the last year or so.
so now the question comes...
at what point is the damage already done?
or, how long does it take to correct any damage that may have been caused? I need to get back on my rotella 15w40 - last couple have been castrol, granted I change at 3k or 6 months, religiously.
just like to know I am in for the long haul, it was hard enough to convince wife of another rover, need to keep this one running :banghead:
at what point is the damage already done?
or, how long does it take to correct any damage that may have been caused? I need to get back on my rotella 15w40 - last couple have been castrol, granted I change at 3k or 6 months, religiously.
just like to know I am in for the long haul, it was hard enough to convince wife of another rover, need to keep this one running :banghead:
The sheer is really about the cam and lifters. The poor cam has to overcome the valve spring pressure, and it needs a cushion of oil to prevent the parts from contact. The rest of the Rover engine is pretty oil forgiving. So, the worst thing is you swap the cam and lifters, at least as I see it.
B
barrios35
Guest
could have been using a better oil all this time. all this is real good info Chris. thanks for sharing.
the usual mobil 1 10w 30 variety. sometimes would get the lower rated 5w 20 when the other weight wasn't in stock.
Right brand, wrong weight. No biggie, now you know. In fact, The people who have been following this know more then many techs in the field...But, the tide is changing.
No biggie, now you know. In fact, The people who have been following this know more then many techs in the field...But, the tide is changing.
All this info on oil has been very interesting! I've been chasing a faint knock in the valve train for the last couple months. I've tried different oils/grades but it never went away....I changed in mobil 1 10w30 about a month ago and naw that its gettin colder that damn knock is worse than ever. So today, after some more researching/reading I picked up some Rotella 15-40 and changed out the mobil 1. I am currently knock free!!!!!!
Thanks a ton Chris!!!!!!
Thanks a ton Chris!!!!!!
clarkwjackson said:All this info on oil has been very interesting! I've been chasing a faint knock in the valve train for the last couple months. I've tried different oils/grades but it never went away....I changed in mobil 1 10w30 about a month ago and naw that its gettin colder that damn knock is worse than ever. So today, after some more researching/reading I picked up some Rotella 15-40 and changed out the mobil 1. I am currently knock free!!!!!!
Thanks a ton Chris!!!!!!
FWIW, the knock disappearing is more likely due to the weight and formula than the brand of oil you were using.
