Disco on portals take 2

[MontrealRR90]

Once again, I'm not bashing this, but…

You can put 10 more runs it but when it breaks, and it will break, it's a show stopper. Welding to cast, when done not right, and I going to say that it wasn't done right by looking at the undercutting on the weld, has weakened the A arm

You can build a 4 link, but whoever builds it needs to do it right, with proper length links and geometry. Looking at the rear link axle mounts, you really need to find a better shop or surf the net and buy brackets that aren't gonna fold up like a lawn chair when they hit a rock. You still didn't answer why the links are so far below the center line of the axle?

The front link setup is, well, not done right. It's way to short and the pinion angle is too flat. Let me guess, your not running the high angle driveshaft for articulation, but because a 1310 double cardon was binding, right?

just some comments...

i just looked at the brakets and they have hit some serious rocks and would of folded by now. when i change the rear A arm i will look into that.

why they did the links like that i have no idea ? your the first to bring it up i will look into it.
looking at it its a geometry reason is all i can see. the builder that i had was really the worst and i canned him the new guy did all the front housing has has done a good job.

for the front the angle on the first build was something like 22 degrees causing vibrations but no bidding with a Toyota driveshaft. so we turned the diff up with the spacer that you see at the end of the flange. That why i needed a high angle driveshaft now i dont really need it anymore has a regular driveshaft would do.

Your saying the front link is too short ? what will that cause ?

 

[MontrealRR90]

ok, looks it like crap, has a lot of issues that you are ignoring and I really hope you didn't pay a lot for all that booty fab. Keep telling yourself that it's a great setup…

Still waiting for answers to the questions, but it's pretty obvious that you, and the shop you used to build this, haven't a clue, so good luck and at least your going to kill a bus full of canadian nun's when it folds up like a lawn chair.

first of all i was trying to keep this civilized but with you i guess its not possible....
all the answers i gave you were im looking into that or i will change that. is that somebody that is ignoring issues ?
How much i paid is too much and like i said i got rid of him.
i never said to myself its a great set up or even mentioned that. i tried to do the best i could with the budget i had and the knowlege that i had.
Has far has folding like a lawn chair its a trailor queen now and it will maybe do 10 to 20 miles to get back to a trailor.
and your so funny when you start with i dont want to bash or anything:rofl: jesust christ Mongo do you think this is my truck is better than yours thing ? SO i guess the whole truck is a piece of crap ? funny that im riding with guys on 44s and going anywere they are going ? i guess i will go and kill some kids so you can be happy !

 

[Mongo]

probably lost in the translation but it's called sarcasm...

 

[MontrealRR90]

Anyway like I said I'm changing the rear and will look at the front more closely. And for the record all the faulty design is from the first builder. Now I'm trying to correct what is wrong so if you have constructive ideas I will look at them seriously.
All I'm trying to do is build something to have fun wheeling and it's getting there. With all the efforts I put in to this project I tought that I would get at least hey nice truck ! But I guess not !

 

[fishEH]

Nice truck.



It is a cool truck and the portals are pretty sweet. What size tires are you running?
Mongo knows his stuff. Your humility is actually refreshing and will no doubt help you get to where you want to be with your truck...........eh.

 

[KyleT]

Since flex isn't a factor with those ginormous tires, I would either step down in size and link it properly to utilize the flex or run radius arms that will be stable and strong.

The trails I run you couldn't even get around on tires that big. But your trails may be different I don't know.

 

[Mongo]

You really need to find a shop that knows what they are doing, your dropping cash on sub-par work and that's 90% of the problem. It's good to see you are trying to fix the problem's, but at some point you need to look at the work and find a shop that help you, not amplify the poor build quality.

BIG EDIT, though this was a radius arm set up but it's not, it's a fucked up 4 link (don't take that personally)
Links being to short bring a plethora of problems, squat, anti squat, scrub radius, ackerman angles, roll axis…and the way yours is built is basically, wrong. The axle bracket is designed as a radius arm mount, not a 4 link mount. You need to decide if you want a 4 link or a radius arm. if you go radius arm, read below, but the same goes for a link suspension. You can fit a front 3 link under it easily and can eliminate all the nasties of what you have now or a proper radius arm

You want your links on a radius arm setup to be as flat and as long as possible to keep anti-squat to a minimum. Thats when your on the throttle, and the twist of the axle will cause your truck to raise up and the axle to push down. Too much of this will lead to nasty sidehill and hillclimb characteristics. A long radius arm will have a smoother arch of suspension travel as well. Too short of a radius arm, and the axle moves forward and backward a great deal with articulation within the arch that the arm allows. Thats a big problem when one tire drops into a hole and is now 4" further back that the other side of the axle. Now that side has to drive forward and upward to get out of the hole rather than just upward. This leads to crazy amounts of bumpsteer and broken parts. A long radius arm extends this arch and makes for a far better range of motion and hardly any bumpsteer.

The rear link can be mounted on the center line of the axle, thus eliminating the rock magnet and you can gain vertical separation back by raising the top mount. Your outer trailing mounts should mounted not be on the side of the frame rail, this will help flattening out the suspension at ride height and help with keeping it parallel with the upper A Arm or with a 4 link.

Don't take the sarcasm seriously…

quick edit for a typo...

 

[KyleT]

Montreal didn't you already get crucified and tons of good info on pbb?

 

[jymmiejamz]

come again ?

I'm guessing this is more missed sarcasm. I am mocking you because you seemingly think a carburettor is more reliable than fuel injection.

 

[MontrealRR90]

Nice truck.



It is a cool truck and the portals are pretty sweet. What size tires are you running?
Mongo knows his stuff. Your humility is actually refreshing and will no doubt help you get to where you want to be with your truck...........eh.

TKS running 37 inch tires krawlers.
when i started this i had no idea it was so complicated and was relying on a shop that builds offroad trucks so....
now 3 years later i actually understand when somebody gets all technical on me. Before not so much

 

[MontrealRR90]

You really need to find a shop that knows what they are doing, your dropping cash on sub-par work and that's 90% of the problem. It's good to see you are trying to fix the problem's, but at some point you need to look at the work and find a shop that help you, not amplify the poor build quality.

BIG EDIT, though this was a radius arm set up but it's not, it's a fucked up 4 link (don't take that personally)
Links being to short bring a plethora of problems, squat, anti squat, scrub radius, ackerman angles, roll axis…and the way yours is built is basically, wrong. The axle bracket is designed as a radius arm mount, not a 4 link mount. You need to decide if you want a 4 link or a radius arm. if you go radius arm, read below, but the same goes for a link suspension. You can fit a front 3 link under it easily and can eliminate all the nasties of what you have now or a proper radius arm

You want your links on a radius arm setup to be as flat and as long as possible to keep anti-squat to a minimum. Thats when your on the throttle, and the twist of the axle will cause your truck to raise up and the axle to push down. Too much of this will lead to nasty sidehill and hillclimb characteristics. A long radius arm will have a smoother arch of suspension travel as well. Too short of a radius arm, and the axle moves forward and backward a great deal with articulation within the arch that the arm allows. Thats a big problem when one tire drops into a hole and is now 4" further back that the other side of the axle. Now that side has to drive forward and upward to get out of the hole rather than just upward. This leads to crazy amounts of bumpsteer and broken parts. A long radius arm extends this arch and makes for a far better range of motion and hardly any bumpsteer.

The rear link can be mounted on the center line of the axle, thus eliminating the rock magnet and you can gain vertical separation back by raising the top mount. Your outer trailing mounts should mounted not he side of the frame rail, this will help flattening out the suspension at ride height and help with keeping it parallel with the upper A Arm or with a 4 link.

Don't take the sarcasm seriously...

ok I get it I will make the appropriate changes... not sure I can afford to do everything this year so I wont drive it on the road until I can and in the meanwhile I will offroad anyways has of now I have not broken anything but will deal with the breakage at least I have a trailor near by.

 

[MontrealRR90]

I'm guessing this is more missed sarcasm. I am mocking you because you seemingly think a carburettor is more reliable than fuel injection.

well its an opinion that has been debated on here a while back and there's pros and cons to everything.
personally I like carbs because its an easy fix in the trail. im not saying that carbs perform better than injection.
what I do know is that that injection has a lot more failure points than carbs. when I have a problem I can easily
do I diagnostic on it myself (fuel or spark) and have spares in my truck cap-rotor,module,coil,wires,fuel pump that's external changes in 5 minutes

 

[p m]

well its an opinion that has been debated on here a while back and there's pros and cons to everything.
personally I like carbs because its an easy fix in the trail. im not saying that carbs perform better than injection.
what I do know is that that injection has a lot more failure points than carbs. when I have a problem I can easily
do I diagnostic on it myself (fuel or spark) and have spares in my truck cap-rotor,module,coil,wires,fuel pump that's external changes in 5 minutes

I take it you rarely wheel in the mountains.

 

[KyleT]

Of all the failure points on a rover, the fuel,injection is so far off that list it's no teen funny.

 

[Mongo]

what the fuck is "no teen funny":flipoff::flipoff:

 

[MontrealRR90]

I take it you rarely wheel in the mountains.

never

 

[MontrealRR90]

Of all the failure points on a rover, the fuel,injection is so far off that list it's no teen funny.

how about a fuel pump change in a trail ?

 

[KyleT]

200k plus on the factory one... I don't buy crappy gas.

No teen was supposed to be not even.

 

[K-rover]

I agree with the simpler the better, especially offroad. BUT Ive seen to many carb'd trucks stall on obstacles and have to be winched or pushed back onto flat ground just to get the engine restarted.

I do like your truck and Its a tough crowd around here, but Mongo knows his stuff.

 

[aliastel]

how about a fuel pump change in a trail ?

Pretty easy to change the pump since there is a hatch in the rear floor to access it. Also, they are pretty reliable and can be replaced with a GM pump as well.