Disco on portals take 2

MontrealRR90

MontrealRR90

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May 21, 2004
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K-rover said:
I agree with the simpler the better, especially offroad. BUT Ive seen to many carb'd trucks stall on obstacles and have to be winched or pushed back onto flat ground just to get the engine restarted.

check the video of jack brinks that sold me at the time and have no problems stalling whatsoever. The carb is set from factory .

http://www.holley.com/0-90470.asp


I do like your truck and Its a tough crowd around here, but Mongo knows his stuff.
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well he knows a hell of a lot more than me !
 
KyleT

KyleT

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Mar 28, 2007
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I think you could learn and do better. I taught my self with help of friends and went from building a pair of sliders to linking my truck by myself. And no weld failures.
 
MontrealRR90

MontrealRR90

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KyleT said:
I think you could learn and do better. I taught my self with help of friends and went from building a pair of sliders to linking my truck by myself. And no weld failures.
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yep that is the way to go that's for sure. I have learned a lot and im still learning everyday on offroad trucks its a fucken science is what it is ! depending on what king of trails you're doing and what you want to do with your truck there's a lot of different ways to go....
 
MontrealRR90

MontrealRR90

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Mongo said:
You really need to find a shop that knows what they are doing, your dropping cash on sub-par work and that's 90% of the problem. It's good to see you are trying to fix the problem's, but at some point you need to look at the work and find a shop that help you, not amplify the poor build quality.

BIG EDIT, though this was a radius arm set up but it's not, it's a fucked up 4 link (don't take that personally)
Links being to short bring a plethora of problems, squat, anti squat, scrub radius, ackerman angles, roll axis…and the way yours is built is basically, wrong. The axle bracket is designed as a radius arm mount, not a 4 link mount. You need to decide if you want a 4 link or a radius arm. if you go radius arm, read below, but the same goes for a link suspension. You can fit a front 3 link under it easily and can eliminate all the nasties of what you have now or a proper radius arm

You want your links on a radius arm setup to be as flat and as long as possible to keep anti-squat to a minimum. Thats when your on the throttle, and the twist of the axle will cause your truck to raise up and the axle to push down. Too much of this will lead to nasty sidehill and hillclimb characteristics. A long radius arm will have a smoother arch of suspension travel as well. Too short of a radius arm, and the axle moves forward and backward a great deal with articulation within the arch that the arm allows. Thats a big problem when one tire drops into a hole and is now 4" further back that the other side of the axle. Now that side has to drive forward and upward to get out of the hole rather than just upward. This leads to crazy amounts of bumpsteer and broken parts. A long radius arm extends this arch and makes for a far better range of motion and hardly any bumpsteer.

The rear link can be mounted on the center line of the axle, thus eliminating the rock magnet and you can gain vertical separation back by raising the top mount. Your outer trailing mounts should mounted not be on the side of the frame rail, this will help flattening out the suspension at ride height and help with keeping it parallel with the upper A Arm or with a 4 link.

Don't take the sarcasm seriously…

quick edit for a typo...
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well since this post I realized that I knew fucken shit about geometry so I read a bit on pirate for a few nights...

here is what I have come up with let me know if it makes any sense.

Bumpsteer is created by the track bar and drag link being at different angles it has nothing to do with suspension design. also a full hydro eliminates any bumpsteer because you eliminate the above.

also some have said that a 3 link creates major brake pull ?

for the anti-squat,scrub radius,ackerman angles ect im working on it lol

looking at changing the whole set up anyways for the third time..... this one has to be the last....
 
Mongo

Mongo

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Apr 19, 2004
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So are you running full hydro? Short links will add to and complicate bump steer issues and what is "major brake pull"?

Find a shop that will built it correctly that have real fabricators and welders...

Contact Greg Davis and see what he did for a suspension with portals..
 
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KyleT

KyleT

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Mar 28, 2007
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No issues with brake pull on mine. And I don't think there is bump steer either. Roll axis (how flat are the links) is good too. It took me two tries on the front and the second time I nailed it.
 
Flyfish

Flyfish

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Oct 29, 2004
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Little off topic, but what trailer is that? Looks like a 16', 10k hauler. That correct? What brand?

(clearly i'm looking for a trailer)
 
MontrealRR90

MontrealRR90

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Mongo said:
So are you running full hydro? Short links will add to and complicate bump steer issues and what is "major brake pull"?

Find a shop that will built it correctly that have real fabricators and welders...

Contact Greg Davis and see what he did for a suspension with portals..
Click to expand...

Did you guys see the right pictures ? Yes there's full hydro.
 
MontrealRR90

MontrealRR90

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May 21, 2004
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Mongo said:
So are you running full hydro? Short links will add to and complicate bump steer issues and what is "major brake pull"?

Find a shop that will built it correctly that have real fabricators and welders...

Contact Greg Davis and see what he did for a suspension with portals..
Click to expand...

I'll try and find the article that talked about brake pull on 3 links

I alreadyGreg's truck buts it's a d2 not quite the same. Anyways I'm looking into what you were suggesting
It will get done eventually maybe not this summer but in the winter.

Has of now I have no bump steer or fell anything weird in the trail and like I said the truck I'd friggen awesome in the trail it's a beast to say the least. I might not have any experience in building trucks but I have been driving an off-road truck for 15 years and this truck is something else. I'm riding with guys that have 40 inch tires and up to 44s and I go everywhere and even more. The guys with 14 bolt and Dana 60 s are always getting hooked on rocks and have to back up and try 2 or 3 times to get through some obstacles and I just roll right by.
So I will enjoy it this summer and use it just in the trail and see.
 
Mongo

Mongo

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Apr 19, 2004
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The frame differences between a D1 and D2 are minor, so Greg's setup will work on a D1.

It sounds like your happy with the setup on the trail and knowing the type of wheeling you do (I lived in Upstate New York until 2005) you'll be able to plow thru shit and not have any issues on flat ground and low speed…Drive it, change what needs to be done to make it work right…

I just hate to see shops build stupid shit...

Quick edit...missed the full hydro setup, that's why your not experiencing any bump steer issues.
 
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seventyfive

seventyfive

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Jan 3, 2010
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over there
Frank,
Shops build stupid shit because those who pay accept it.

I, like you, builds shit that makes those who stand by and snap pics. In a perfect world nobody stands by and snaps pics because we are doing what we what we do.

Right foot down steering into it.

Let this motherfucker do what he does. Build inadequate shit and post to make dick get thick..
 
Mongo

Mongo

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Apr 19, 2004
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seventyfive said:
Frank,
Shops build stupid shit because those who pay accept it.

I, like you, builds shit that makes those who stand by and snap pics. In a perfect world nobody stands by and snaps pics because we are doing what we what we do.

Right foot down steering into it.

Let this motherfucker do what he does. Build inadequate shit and post to make dick get thick..
Click to expand...

Your right Mike...
 
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