Fan Clutch

DiscoArt

DiscoArt

Well-known member
Nov 14, 2009
97
0
Help me decide what fan clutch and fan to get for my 02. My Disco runs hot at idle, it doesn't overheat but the auxiliary fan is always on. The truck has a new radiator, new thermostat, new hoses, new water pump. The engine is not pressurizing so the block is probably OK. I got the imperial fan clutch today from Advance Auto, not the heavy duty one, and it doesn't seem to engage at the right moment and when it does it only does so for a very short time. The HD fan clutch is out of stock in my location so I can't try that. I am thinking of just ordering a Genuine Rover fan clutch and a fan. Should I get the original fan and clutch or should I get the one for 03-04 models? The later fan blade looks like it will pull more air but I might be wrong.
 
J

JohnB

Well-known member
Oct 18, 2007
2,295
12
Oregon
Most threads I read about are happy with the imperial clutch you bought at advance. Maybe your new one was defective.

Summit racing is now stocking a Hayden clutch fan listed for the Discovery. But everytime I check availability it is out of stock. Price is right.

Nothing is wrong with OEM but do order the 03-04 since they went back to the older style DI fan blade.

My DII runs and idles at 210. When I ran the imperial it quickly shot up to death temps. The entire DII cooling system is a joke to me. Thermostat with a bypass vavle that works on water pressure not temp. By next summer I plan on an inline thermostat that will sit in the upper radiator hose with the bypass sytem bypassed.

I have a customer who after blowing up his engine and buying a used one from me took out the factory thermostat and put an inline thermostat in. Now his DII runs at 190 all day long.
 
pdxrovermech

pdxrovermech

Well-known member
Jul 3, 2009
1,807
57
Portland, OR
unless you're stuck in traffic or wheelin the rover V8 can typically get by without a mechanical fan at all, so unless your fan is just plain spinning freely, I would think something else is going on.
 
mnfeo2

mnfeo2

Well-known member
Dec 29, 2008
83
0
SoCal
JohnB said:
Most threads I read about are happy with the imperial clutch you bought at advance. Maybe your new one was defective.

Summit racing is now stocking a Hayden clutch fan listed for the Discovery. But everytime I check availability it is out of stock. Price is right.

Nothing is wrong with OEM but do order the 03-04 since they went back to the older style DI fan blade.

My DII runs and idles at 210. When I ran the imperial it quickly shot up to death temps. The entire DII cooling system is a joke to me. Thermostat with a bypass vavle that works on water pressure not temp. By next summer I plan on an inline thermostat that will sit in the upper radiator hose with the bypass sytem bypassed.

I have a customer who after blowing up his engine and buying a used one from me took out the factory thermostat and put an inline thermostat in. Now his DII runs at 190 all day long.
Click to expand...

I would love to do this.
 
DiscoArt

DiscoArt

Well-known member
Nov 14, 2009
97
0
That's the thing, my original fan seems like it is working OK. When I rev the engine up it definitely locks up and pulls a bunch of hot air through the radiator. To me it almost seems like there isn't enough coolant going through the radiator at idle. I don't even know what else to check. The thermostat is brand new Genuine Rover. Is it possible I have an air bubble in the cooling system? I did just change the engine but I bled the crap out of it. The truck did the same thing with the old engine by the way but the old engine had a slipped liner and pressurized the cooling system.
 
DiscoArt

DiscoArt

Well-known member
Nov 14, 2009
97
0
The shroud is installed, the condenser and oil coolers are clean. My upper radiator hose is hot the lower hose is cold. The hose that goes from the thermostat to the water pump is hot. It seems like the thermostat is not opening until you rev the engine. Is such a thing possible? The thermostat is installed correctly.
 
J

JohnB

Well-known member
Oct 18, 2007
2,295
12
Oregon
Thats how the POS thermostat works. At idle and low rpm the water bypass the radiator. Once the water pressure increases with higher rpm more water goes through the radiator. Most cars have a bypass route for coolent for quicker warm ups in the morning(keep those feets warm). The DII is the only car I've ever worked on that engine temp does not matter for the bypass.

I know that so many on this forum believe that this isn't a problem and yet everyone agrees that the DII has a much higher rate of headgasket replacement than the DI which by the way has a normal thermostat.

I have an inline real time coolent gauge that works. Most on this forum spout there crap about there fancy Scangauge. Well I trust that temp reading as much as I trust anything that gets it temp readings from the factory temp sender(rubish).

DII in my opionion suffer more headgasket failures and motor melts because of the lame ass bypass system.
 
DiscoArt

DiscoArt

Well-known member
Nov 14, 2009
97
0
I just got one of those today from Summit Racing. Should be here tomorrow. I am not sure how I'll make it fit. I am thinking of maybe cutting the coolant outlet pipe and installing it somewhere close to the manifold. I don't see any other good spot to install it.
 
DiscoArt

DiscoArt

Well-known member
Nov 14, 2009
97
0
Forgot to ask two more questions. With the in-line thermostat do I need to get a thermostat with bypass holes? Is my heater going to suck without the factory bypass system?
 
DiscoArt

DiscoArt

Well-known member
Nov 14, 2009
97
0
I am not sure what you mean. With the in line thermostat in my upper radiator hose it makes sense to have a vent hole in the thermostat otherwise the hot water might never get to the thermostat to open it. The problem is the water will be constantly circulating through the radiator to some extent. I am worried that the warm up time will be significantly effected. I guess I'll try and see what happens.
 
flyfisher11

flyfisher11

Well-known member
May 25, 2005
8,676
2
61
Wolf Laurel NC
JohnB said:
...........
I have an inline real time coolent gauge that works. Most on this forum spout there crap about there fancy Scangauge. Well I trust that temp reading as much as I trust anything that gets it temp readings from the factory temp sender(rubish).
..............
Click to expand...

I'm running all three, factory, direct reading accu gauge, and scangauge and have been for quite some time. The direct and scangauge have always agreed. And yes I have a separate sending unit for the direct reading gauge.
 
DiscoArt

DiscoArt

Well-known member
Nov 14, 2009
97
0
Here is an update:

The problem was with my thermostat, even though it was brand new. I installed an inline thermostat and it is working great. The auxiliary fan does not turn on no matter how long the truck is idling and the heater is working fine.

Here are some pix:

Lower Hose (BMW E46 lower hose I had on the shelf.)
http://www.rmeuropean.com/images/landrover/lowerhose.jpg


Upper Hose:
(Some hose I found at PepBoys.)
Don't forget to drill a small bypass hole in the thermostat.

http://www.rmeuropean.com/images/landrover/upperhose.jpg

 
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