Fan Clutch

RoverDII

Well-known member
Apr 30, 2008
241
0
SoCal
DiscoArt said:
Here is an update:

The problem was with my thermostat, even though it was brand new. I installed an inline thermostat and it is working great. The auxiliary fan does not turn on no matter how long the truck is idling and the heater is working fine.

Here are some pix:

Lower Hose (BMW E46 lower hose I had on the shelf.)
http://www.rmeuropean.com/images/landrover/lowerhose.jpg


Upper Hose:
(Some hose I found at PepBoys.)
Don't forget to drill a small bypass hole in the thermostat.

http://www.rmeuropean.com/images/landrover/upperhose.jpg


Looks good!
What was your temp reading before and now with the Mod.
Where do you drill the by-pass hole?
Thanks for sharing.
:cheers:
 

JohnB

Well-known member
Oct 18, 2007
2,295
12
Oregon
Great job.

My only thought was how do you bleed the air? My plan was to bleed it from my aftermarket gauge sender.

I've been planning on doing this for months and I'm glad you took the game ball and ran.

If you get a thermostat for a DI it has the dingle hole in the thermostat.

You rock:D
 

DiscoArt

Well-known member
Nov 14, 2009
97
0
I just drilled a small hole in the thermostat and mounted the thermostat with the hole at the top. It would have been nice to find a hose fitting with a bleeder screw. I bleed the system by just massaging the upper hose with the engine running. All of the air eventually escaped the upper hose over a few days. I don't know what my temperature was before doing this but it was over 100 degrees Celsius because the auxiliary fan turned on at idle. I can now idle in traffic for hours and auxiliary fan never turns on. My fuel consumption hasn't changed so I take it the engine isn't running cold.
 

JohnB

Well-known member
Oct 18, 2007
2,295
12
Oregon
Bit the bullet and did this finally on my D2. Happy to report 190 temp all the time. Stock thermostat had my truck at 210-212 no matter what. I'm running a 190 degree t stat but have ordered a high flow 180 t stat to go for the ultimate cooling. The heater comes on as quick as before and I hit the 160 range just as quick so as to enter optimum operating temp for emissions.

I'll keep updating my results if I blow my engine up or something.
 

mbrummal

Well-known member
Jan 23, 2009
2,894
22
Willow Spring, NC
JohnB said:
Bit the bullet and did this finally on my D2. Happy to report 190 temp all the time. Stock thermostat had my truck at 210-212 no matter what. I'm running a 190 degree t stat but have ordered a high flow 180 t stat to go for the ultimate cooling. The heater comes on as quick as before and I hit the 160 range just as quick so as to enter optimum operating temp for emissions.

I'll keep updating my results if I blow my engine up or something.

pics please.
 

JohnB

Well-known member
Oct 18, 2007
2,295
12
Oregon
mbrummal said:
pics please.

Yes I'm ready for the jokes on my great mickey mouse abilities. I've been running it this way for a little over a week and my temps have been constant 190 degrees. Thats 22 degrees lower than what I've been dealing with forever. I'm not running the upper shroud yet as I'll have to do a little more mickey mousing to get that in. At this point I don't need it, but by summer most likely will.
http://germanautosalvage.com/CIMG0004.JPG
http://germanautosalvage.com/CIMG0007.JPG
http://germanautosalvage.com/CIMG0008.JPG
 
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robertofollia

Well-known member
Aug 3, 2005
555
2
My home is where my Disco is
Thanks for sharing such useful information.
I would be very grateful if somebody could put a "sticky" in this post to felp all other long-suffering DII owners.

Thanks to your info I know that the D2 Tstat is a huge pile of crap. My particular D2 had been turning the auxiliary fan (A/C one) which only turns on when coolant temp surpasses 100 deg celsius (that's close to boiling and death zone temp) since I bought it whenever it stood idling for more than 2 minutes. Just blipping the gas pedal twice turned it off.

Maybe the crappy thing was stuck and blipping the gas pedal allowed water to circulate. I did not realize until my recent HG job, when the Tstat was renewed as a matter of course and the A/C fan remained silent ever since.

But your mod is a very intelligent and well-executed one. Will be adding it to my to-do's list.

Best regards from the other side of the pond

Robert
 
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JohnB

Well-known member
Oct 18, 2007
2,295
12
Oregon
Thanks for the kind words. If anyone else embarks on this keep in mind you will need a way to bleed the air. I unscrew the sender from the coolent gauge manifold to bleed the air out. Of course anyone who has ever had to work on the coolent system knows that bleeding the air is very, very important.

I did customize the upper shroud, not that I needed it but I wasn't comfortable with those hoses hanging around. I'll post up a picture when I get a chance.
 

DiscoArt

Well-known member
Nov 14, 2009
97
0
This is probably the best mod you can do to a D2. I can absolutely trust my cooling system now. The factory thermostat with it's stupid bypass system pretty much cuts the efficiency of the radiator in half. I can leave the truck idling now forever and it will not turn the aux fan on.
 
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flyfisher11

Well-known member
May 25, 2005
8,676
2
61
Wolf Laurel NC
DiscoArt said:
Here is an update:

The problem was with my thermostat, even though it was brand new. I installed an inline thermostat and it is working great. The auxiliary fan does not turn on no matter how long the truck is idling and the heater is working fine.

Here are some pix:

Lower Hose (BMW E46 lower hose I had on the shelf.)
http://www.rmeuropean.com/images/landrover/lowerhose.jpg


Upper Hose:
(Some hose I found at PepBoys.)
Don't forget to drill a small bypass hole in the thermostat.

http://www.rmeuropean.com/images/landrover/upperhose.jpg


Nice work! Will you post part # year etc for the lower bmw hose? I'd like to simply walk into the parts store and say "give me a lower rad hose for ___ bmw. The top I can put together easy enough.

thanks,

Mike
 

DiscoArt

Well-known member
Nov 14, 2009
97
0
flyfisher11 said:
Nice work! Will you post part # year etc for the lower bmw hose? I'd like to simply walk into the parts store and say "give me a lower rad hose for ___ bmw. The top I can put together easy enough.

thanks,

Mike

Sure, BMW part number is 11-53-1-436-408. You'll need to cut the ends off the hose. The hose fits E46 99-05 325 i/IX, 323i, 328i, 330 i/Xi.

This is what it looks like with the ends on it:

http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Number/Radiator-Hose-Lower-to-Thermostat-with-Temperature-Sensor-Fitting-__11531436408_CON_1FAEF62B.aspx
 
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JohnB

Well-known member
Oct 18, 2007
2,295
12
Oregon
ptschram said:
OK, fill me in. Are you going directly from the lower outlet of the radiator to the water pump and directly from the upper outlet to the intake inlet?

I am CONVINCED that the problem with the DII is the cooling system.

Yep. DiscoArt found a hose that fit. I was to lazy and just used a copper plumbing pipe from the hardware store.

The heater hose has not been disturbed. The upper hose is just as you stated.

The bypass hose is no longer in the mix.

I actually like Discoarts setup better. Cleaner and will get that lower hose eventually. I really wanted to keep my water gauge manifold in place. So I have more of a mouse nest.
 
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