I was looking for inline thermostat here in Montreal . Price is 115.99$+tax .Somebody is got to be kidding me.
Fan Clutch
- Thread starter DiscoArt
- Start date
Found one study about Rover cooling system.For education purposes only.
http://web.tiscali.it/elise_s1/
http://web.tiscali.it/elise_s1/
DiscoArt said:
Actually they just are more like an on/off switch. They open much larger than a OE style t-stat and wait till they hit the mark, where-as an OE style t-stat starts to open a few degrees before the mark. In our trucks with a low flow water pump the stock style t-stat is the best option. In a racing engine with hi-flow water pumps a hi-flow t-stat is needed since the OE style t-stat would not be able operate against the high water pressure.
Yadranco said:
Interesting.
Simple V8 should be simple compared to 4 cylinder TDI engines and the ever head gasket blowing Freelander.
I actually think a bypass t-stat is a good idea if all is working perfect. I think the few I had on my D2 were not made correct and at least the last one I cut apart seemed to be made wrong. The by-pass portion was at an angle that would jam up during operation. Plus in my mind I don't understand how water pressure flowing out of the motor to the bypass could be relieved by an opening thermostat. Seems like they would pressure against each other intern keeping the water flow restricted.
I've got most of my parts here...just waiting on the aluminum tube with valve to bleed and lower radiator hose for the BMW which I found at Oreilly's Auto Parts for $15.
Should have mine done by Friday night.
Should have mine done by Friday night.
i just performed this mod to a customer's D2 and have great results..i used the BMW hose p/n 11531726344 i trimmed one end and used that for the lower hose and the new style D2 hose with plastic Y piece--the upper i used a piece from a bosch RR upper hose and the early D2 hose with the bleeder in it...the bleeder brought all the air out..first try!!
I've got this done and with a 180 T-stat...I ended up notching the top of the fan shroud so the T-stat housing would be more flush and I could close the hood.
At idle it fluctuates between 186 and 188 with the a/c on. Going down the road it will go up to 192 to 194 at 73 mph which is not bad compared to the 206 I'm used to at that speed. Out on Eglin range today it was at 186-188 riding around, then I got stuck and had to winch out and it took quite some time. Temp fluctuated between 188 and 204 while winching and of course using the gas a lot in conjunction with the winch...after got out of that situation and moving again it was back down to 186-188 idling and moving.
I guess I expected the temps while moving to stay under 190 or is this normal capacity for this cooling system... or could a new radiator be on the horizon? I'm thinking of buying one anyway just for good measure the truck has 113K on it and not sure if it's ever been replaced and I've found them for $260 on vertexauto.com.
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos...4_446643789347_796024347_5784614_558977_n.jpg
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos..._446643759347_796024347_5784612_1813054_n.jpg
At idle it fluctuates between 186 and 188 with the a/c on. Going down the road it will go up to 192 to 194 at 73 mph which is not bad compared to the 206 I'm used to at that speed. Out on Eglin range today it was at 186-188 riding around, then I got stuck and had to winch out and it took quite some time. Temp fluctuated between 188 and 204 while winching and of course using the gas a lot in conjunction with the winch...after got out of that situation and moving again it was back down to 186-188 idling and moving.
I guess I expected the temps while moving to stay under 190 or is this normal capacity for this cooling system... or could a new radiator be on the horizon? I'm thinking of buying one anyway just for good measure the truck has 113K on it and not sure if it's ever been replaced and I've found them for $260 on vertexauto.com.
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos...4_446643789347_796024347_5784614_558977_n.jpg
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos..._446643759347_796024347_5784612_1813054_n.jpg
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I would check your radiator for good flow. Mine holds pretty steady. Although in the morning it holds to about 190 before dropping down to around 185. I've got around 130K and replaced my radiator last year when I did head gaskets and a new cam.
Sometimes t-stats can be junk out of the box.
All in all sounds like temps are much lower for you than before. I assume your fan clutch is up to snuff. If I remember you have a scangauge and an inline temp gauge. Do they agree?
Sometimes t-stats can be junk out of the box.
All in all sounds like temps are much lower for you than before. I assume your fan clutch is up to snuff. If I remember you have a scangauge and an inline temp gauge. Do they agree?
Fan clutch is good...I did swap t-stat today for a superstat 180 have always had good luck with those. The reason I did that was because the summit brand t-stat on initial start last couple of times temp goes up to 205 - 210 before it drops back down to mid to high 180s. Will see if the new stat does this tomorrow.
I just had the land rover 'crappy thermostat to SBC 180 thermostat conversion done on my 99 D2. First, I'd like to tell everyone that the Meziere thermo housing number WN002 is 1 & 1/2" OD, which makes it difficult to install, because my 99 D2 has 1&1/4" hoses. It will work but why not order the right part. The 1&1/4" OD part is number WN001, but you'll see that when you go to the Meziere website to order the part.
2 things have occurred since I got my vehicle back. It has overheated once already due to the top hose bleeder screw popping out while I was driving close to home. The temp never got in the red zone but it still made my butthole pucker up. After I replaced that hose with another solid (no bleeder) top hose, and topped off the coolant, I headed out again. I turned on my AC cause I had a 20 mile trip to make, and the needle started climbing again. Another inspection revealed that the Meziere housing had come unscrewed a little, just enough so that you could see coolant on the bottom of it. I retightened it, and refitted the hoses with a very slight twist that would keep the housing torqued tight. I then made the 40 mile round trip journey without a problem, and I used the AC. That was yesterday.
Today it was very hot here, around 90, and I took the Disco for another spin with the AC on. The needle stayed in the middle for most of the trip, until I slowed to a crawl while driving thru a store parking lot. Then the needle started going up again until I turned the AC off.
Also, every time it starts to overheat, and I shut it off, the electric fan comes on and stays on until I lock the vehicle.
I have ordered the in line adapter and temp gauge that JohnB installed on his vehicle so I can find out what temperature range I'm actually running, because the stock LR gauge doesn't reflect any difference in running temp than what it was prior to the modification.
2 things have occurred since I got my vehicle back. It has overheated once already due to the top hose bleeder screw popping out while I was driving close to home. The temp never got in the red zone but it still made my butthole pucker up. After I replaced that hose with another solid (no bleeder) top hose, and topped off the coolant, I headed out again. I turned on my AC cause I had a 20 mile trip to make, and the needle started climbing again. Another inspection revealed that the Meziere housing had come unscrewed a little, just enough so that you could see coolant on the bottom of it. I retightened it, and refitted the hoses with a very slight twist that would keep the housing torqued tight. I then made the 40 mile round trip journey without a problem, and I used the AC. That was yesterday.
Today it was very hot here, around 90, and I took the Disco for another spin with the AC on. The needle stayed in the middle for most of the trip, until I slowed to a crawl while driving thru a store parking lot. Then the needle started going up again until I turned the AC off.
Also, every time it starts to overheat, and I shut it off, the electric fan comes on and stays on until I lock the vehicle.
I have ordered the in line adapter and temp gauge that JohnB installed on his vehicle so I can find out what temperature range I'm actually running, because the stock LR gauge doesn't reflect any difference in running temp than what it was prior to the modification.
I use an ODBII scanner to get my coolant temp readings, outside it was 95...and humid. I've been averaging about 188 cruising at 55-60 then, like I've posted before go up to 194 at 73 mph. I didn't have any problems like you had with the housing coming unscrewed probably because I cranked on it pretty good...and I've used the rubber gasket that fits around the t-stat. I also used the "be cool" tube someone posted the link to off of ebay with the petcock in it for the bleeder which has not given a problem. I think good results so far but not quite what I was hoping for, but I'm guessing my radiator might be partly to blame probably not flowing like a new one would. Or it could be the heat and humidity in FL, system doesn't get rid of the heat as effectively as it would if it were dry climate. Today when i got home I let it idle to see what it would do and the temp got down to 190 before I shut it off....after a long run in the heat it seems to take quite sometime to cool down again. The first t-stat I had didn't seem to work correctly opening up what seemed like to me way late. The 180 superstat seems to open fully at around 190 or so before dropping back down. In a few days I may try a 160 to see how that works. My gauge never moves during all of this at all...I'd hate to know how hot it would have to be to get close to the red zone?
Just out of curiosity I hooked up my scanner to the wifes 328 and it idles at 210...and the gauge stays planted in the middle...WTF? Now I'm reading up on that car, and I've installed new radiator, t-stat and new water pump in that car.
Just out of curiosity I hooked up my scanner to the wifes 328 and it idles at 210...and the gauge stays planted in the middle...WTF? Now I'm reading up on that car, and I've installed new radiator, t-stat and new water pump in that car.
discoreiver said:
Man you have to bleed the system. Your asking for a serious problem if you have air trapped in there. Another point is that the hose size is actually 36mm. Yes a little hose pushing is needed but I'd rather have a tight fitting hose than a loose hose. Just my personal opinion. I searched for a metric inline thermostat but none exist at least to my findings. I also always use a coolent pressure tester whenever I mess around with coolent hoses or clamps.
Pleaee make sure you follow the RAVE insructions for filling your coolent system. There is no other option. Unless you want a dead Rover engine.
jeffro0502 said:
210 is the norm these days. Makes for a cleaner running engine. Its all about emission standards. I believe that a pressurized system won't boil over with 50/50 coolant until 265 degrees. I don't like driving that close to the brink. I did this conversion for my own peace of mind and maybe should have kept it to myself.
As far as your BMW I do believe they have a reputation for a weak cooling systems. Some of the E36 328 have a plastic impeller on the water pump. I think the E46 may have this as well. I believe GMB makes a metal one. At least they have a proper thermostat.
Your right. Seems like when I measured the inside it was 36mm but now I'm thinking it was 34mm. This is why I went with 36mm. Since the first item I bought was that inline coolant gauge fitting which I could at that moment of hitting the buy-it-now button was a 36mm.
Oh well this was all a experimental mock-up anyway. If I get through the summer and I'm still happy a better design would be in order. My customer is a machinist and he built an adapter plate that fits between the upper coolant line and the intake manifold. That would be the best place for sure(which would almost be identical to the D1 setup). I just didn't like it since to access it you would have to move the AC pump to service it. Like we all haven't done that a dozen times.
That would be the best setup. Then all stock hoses could be retained. Just put the bleeder line where the old plastic bleeder was. Someone should custom build that and sell it. Not me just putting it out there.
Oh well this was all a experimental mock-up anyway. If I get through the summer and I'm still happy a better design would be in order. My customer is a machinist and he built an adapter plate that fits between the upper coolant line and the intake manifold. That would be the best place for sure(which would almost be identical to the D1 setup). I just didn't like it since to access it you would have to move the AC pump to service it. Like we all haven't done that a dozen times.
That would be the best setup. Then all stock hoses could be retained. Just put the bleeder line where the old plastic bleeder was. Someone should custom build that and sell it. Not me just putting it out there.
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JohnB said:
If it stays under 200 in these temps here with this setup I'm not going to worry about it. And yes as for the BMW they did have a cooling system that was good for 80K, this one has all the updates with all plastic pieces replaced and is working as it should.
I finished the thermostat modification this weekend and so far everything seems to be working well. Based on my ScanGauge, I have temp readings of around 188 to 190 at idle and 193 at highway speed. Where I really see a difference is when coming to a stop from highway speed. Before the change, my temp would climb to about 206 at a stoplight, then drop once I was moving again. Now the reading increases only to about 195 while stopped. It was about 93 degrees outside today when I checked these temps.
I used a similar setup to the others in this thread:
-Meziere Thermo Housing (1.25?) w/180 degree thermostat
-GlowShift Water Sender Attachment
-BMW lower hose
I drilled a 1/8? hole in the thermostat, and on the GlowShift adapter, I added a petcock drain in the temp sensor fitting to bleed the air out.
Thanks again to DiscoArt, JohnB & Jeffro for posting their pics and findings.
Here is another interesting link I found to modify the thermostat on an MGF (same concept ? relocate the thermostat from bottom of radiator to top).
http://www.mgfmavhh.ukf.net/
I used a similar setup to the others in this thread:
-Meziere Thermo Housing (1.25?) w/180 degree thermostat
-GlowShift Water Sender Attachment
-BMW lower hose
I drilled a 1/8? hole in the thermostat, and on the GlowShift adapter, I added a petcock drain in the temp sensor fitting to bleed the air out.
Thanks again to DiscoArt, JohnB & Jeffro for posting their pics and findings.
Here is another interesting link I found to modify the thermostat on an MGF (same concept ? relocate the thermostat from bottom of radiator to top).
http://www.mgfmavhh.ukf.net/
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TxDII said:
Your's looks all new in that pic...my engine compartment is very dirty from last time I was out.
jeffro0502 said:
I cleaned it up when I did the headgaskets a few months ago. (And that's a new alternator).
I redid my thermo mod, using the correct size meziere housing, and I also installed an in-line sensor and temp. gauge from glo-shift. Took it for a test drive, with my AC running. My idiot gauge stayed in the middle, however, according to my new glo-shift gauge, my coolant temp didn't get above 165 degrees. Don't know which to trust, so I'm going back to my LR mechanic next Monday, and get him to put a scan gauge on it. Recently, whenever I used the AC for 45 minutes or more, my idiot gauge temp. would start climbing, and go back to normal when I turned off the AC.