Bilstein 7100's and use some of these on the shocks
http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Eibach-Micro-Cellular-Foam-Shaft-Bump-Stop-p-1354.html
http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Eibach-Micro-Cellular-Foam-Shaft-Bump-Stop-p-1354.html
Issue with Terra Firma shocks
- Thread starter 5x6.5
- Start date
In all of the years playing with Rovers, I can't think of any other radius arms breaking other than TF.
FIVESPDDISCO said:
School me here, so with the TF+2 shocks you should have "taller" bump stops than stock? Am I correct? How do you know how tall the new bump stops need to be?
Rover_Hokie said:
I like to drop the axel down to where the spring is fully relaxed when retained + 2", I then adjust the shock tower so the shock still has atleast 1.5" of drop, I then adjust my limit straps.
On the bump stops I compress the each side of the axel to where I have 1.5" of compression left and use 3" solid bump stops and using steel plates that I make as spacers to fill the gap if there is any between the bump stop and the frame. This set up has worked well for me in the past.
This is the first time I've had a shock fail.:ack:
I just orderd 10" Fox shocks from Lucky8.
Thanks Justin!!!
D Chapman said:
I have not bent the set on my 90, but I would like to know why they are bending.
All I can think of is winching against a rock.
D Chapman said:
I've never use TF arms. When I first got into Rovers I had heard of people having problems with them so I stayed away from them.
When going 3"+ inches of lift I move the radius arm mount forward 1" and use the corrrect degree swivel ball. The stock arms and new bushings work great! and I've had no problems with stock arms.
Last edited:
qt arms bend as well. rovertym arms are hands down the best off the shelf arms.
frank, industrial strength bungee cords to the front bumper.
frank, industrial strength bungee cords to the front bumper.
If you use Double cardan drive shaft and put the pinion angle back to stock you wont have problems with keeping the u-joints lubricated, Enough angle to keep things happy. If you use castor correcting arms it puts the whole axel back to like stock angles, This is better for double cardan shafts, I grease mine every time I off road or once a month because they dont get the proper angle for the double cardan but I get less vibations, that being said if you use the castor correcting swivel balls youre fixing the castor problem and keeping a proper angle for the drive shaft. You'll have a better angle at both full drop and when stuffing the axle at full compression. by movieg the radius arm mount you can correct the angle on the mount and at the same time move it 1" forward to compensate for the loss in the lift. It helps with the stress on the bushings also.
Mongo said:
Its not easy or fun, you got to get fabalistic on that shit because of the cross member. I wish I had pics from my RRC but I dont. Ive seen others do the same. I cut the mount at the frame and the cross member, plate the outer side, drill holes on the plate, I then use a back plate on the inside of the frame. Its a little grinding and cutting with the plasma, welding. If you noticed on the old RTE arms they are a little longer that TF arms and stock arms.
DiscoPhoto said:
No shit! I guess my sarcasm wasnt clear enough. Maybe next time I'll throw in a couple of these
:flipoff:
So essentially your not correcting your pinion angle at all you're leaving it high and adding a double cardan? What's your shaft angle and pinion angle? Then you correct castor with drilled swivels. I don't get how moving the axle forward is going to change gushing bind. Unless the angle of the mount is also changed. Then the radius arms still bind at the axle anyway.
Jake1996D1 said:No shit! I guess my sarcasm wasnt clear enough. Maybe next time I'll throw in a couple of these
Clearly your sarcasm font is broken!
atriot:
Jake1996D1 said:
I did all this on my RRC, Sold a year ago, My D1 only has 2" of lift so none of this was needed to be done. I'll did around and see if I can find some pics. I think Kieth from Rover Tracs has done this before also. I think thats who gave me the idea when I did up my RRC.
I get what 5x6.5 is saying. Instead of the frame-side radius arm mount being parallel to the ground (as it is stock), the face is angled downward to get rid of the bushing bind you would have when using a stock radius arm and adding 3" or more of lift (I used to have this). The pinion was at a decent angle for a double cardan driveshaft (maybe a touch too high, but not that big of a deal), but the castor is bad. Thus, you throw in the drilled swivel balls.
Or, just use a cranked arm and split the difference between optimum pinion angle and castor angle... and live with it.
Or, just use a cranked arm and split the difference between optimum pinion angle and castor angle... and live with it.