Panhard Bushings

ptschram

ptschram

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Sep 27, 2004
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In the shop doing the Lord's work one broken Rover
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I readily admit that there was a bad batch of pan hard rod bushings that caused me no end of problems. These were the "Pattern" parts. Fortunately, it wasn't just AllMakes that had them, every vendor got a batch of them.

I find it funny that folks are STILL claiming that there is something magical about OEM parts for vehicles that are now at least 16 years old. There are NO genuine parts for these trucks, they are being built by a different third party tier one or two vendor and Land Rover is not going to demand the same quality they did when they had more skin in the game for these vehicles. OTOH, we should eb pleased they do still provide us with some parts for these antique trucks.

I still hate poly bushings and will continue to buy mid-line OE-style bushes
YMMV
Adult supervision necessary (especially if Chapman is involved)
 
MM3846

MM3846

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Feb 18, 2014
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LI, NY
ptschram said:
There are NO genuine parts for these trucks, they are being built by a different third party tier one or two vendor and Land Rover is not going to demand the same quality they did when they had more skin in the game for these vehicles.
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This.
 
p m

p m

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MM3846 said:
Lol. My SuperPros are doing great, about 5,000 miles on them now. I switched to poly after chasing ATF leaks that ate away the rubber, and I have no complaints at all. Also heims on a street rig works great, sorry if a little NVH upsets your hemorrhoids. Maybe you're buying your heims from the same everyone is getting their "genuine" rubber bushings.
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Do your search.
I was buying pairs of $70 heims every fucking year for the trailing arms. It was not a matter of NVH, it was a matter of complete loss of vehicle control - the truck went into a fishtail oscillation once in Colorado.

I think the guys from New York - in general - should only be allowed to comment on matters related to rust and leaky sunroofs.
For whatever it's worth - I put 5k miles on my truck last month.
 
MM3846

MM3846

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Feb 18, 2014
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p m said:
Do your search.
I was buying pairs of $70 heims every fucking year for the trailing arms. It was not a matter of NVH, it was a matter of complete loss of vehicle control - the truck went into a fishtail oscillation once in Colorado.

I think the guys from New York - in general - should only be allowed to comment on matters related to rust and leaky sunroofs.
For whatever it's worth - I put 5k miles on my truck last month.
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I put 15k miles on my heims in my last Jeep, plenty of other friends with all sorts of rigs with heims driven on the street. You still didn't say where you bought your heims from. Ballistic? RuffStuff? Some other vendor selling QA1s? What size heims? Idk, I won't comment on your suspension because I have no idea what you did to it or how it was modified.

But I don't drive enough, so I'll just talk about my sunroofs :rolleyes: GTFO of here with that NY bullshit.
 
fishEH

fishEH

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Jan 26, 2009
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Lake Villa, IL
I tried 3 or 4 different brand heims on my RTE panhard. They all developed an unacceptable amount of slop in relatively short time.

MM3846 said:
I put 15k miles on my heims in my last Jeep, plenty of other friends with all sorts of rigs with heims driven on the street. You still didn't say where you bought your heims from. Ballistic? RuffStuff? Some other vendor selling QA1s? What size heims? Idk, I won't comment on your suspension because I have no idea what you did to it or how it was modified.

But I don't drive enough, so I'll just talk about my sunroofs :rolleyes: GTFO of here with that NY bullshit.
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p m

p m

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MM3846 said:
I put 15k miles on my heims in my last Jeep, plenty of other friends with all sorts of rigs with heims driven on the street. You still didn't say where you bought your heims from. Ballistic? RuffStuff? Some other vendor selling QA1s? What size heims? Idk, I won't comment on your suspension because I have no idea what you did to it or how it was modified.

But I don't drive enough, so I'll just talk about my sunroofs :rolleyes: GTFO of here with that NY bullshit.
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Dude, I live in Southern California - if that doesn't tell you anything, let's just say I can buy any kind of a heim joint off the shelf of a local store (or any off-road related "goodie" you can think of). The lifetime of the best of them was about 12k - meaning I had to buy a pair every year.
I have to admit to dismissing Dan Chapman's opinion on this subject - I could have saved myself some money.
 
Mongo

Mongo

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Sorry about that. I'm running them on the frame side of my D2 and haven't had a issue, but I have less than 12k on them. They use a standard poly bushing, did you try a different bushing...

Brett, those are basically the same as the ballistic joint I sent Peter...
 
p m

p m

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No worries Frank, some of the trails here are hard on the joints - but the biggest killer is fine dust. Every trip to AZ strip or UT that involves some of the local clay probably takes a lot of life from unprotected heim joints.
I think some of the bigger joints with protective caps on the balls may work - the 7/8 you used didn't have them.

Brett - awesome, thanks.
 
Mongo

Mongo

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quick question, are you thinking the joints Brett listed are different than what you have…poly joints, not hiems
 
p m

p m

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Not sure. They may be the same; for the poly joints that don't get deformed (like in your design), they need to be lubricated - and IIRC your design had a provision for it, but... if I mounted the arm with the zerk facing upwards, it would be sheared by the axletube - so they were mounted facing down (with predictable results).

Another thing I noticed was that the inner core (the hollow tube passing through the halves of poly bushings) was a little shorter than the distance between the brackets - so I had to "pad" the bushings with washers. While it keeps the appearance tight, it also prevents the bushing from being able to rotate - and it gets torn up quickly. BTW, Brett, it may be your case as well.
 
fishEH

fishEH

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Jan 26, 2009
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I used Ballistic Joints on the axle end of my trailing arms, so I know how the zerks would be sheared off. I installed flush mount zerks that would clear the axle tube. Like these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-4-28-Flush-Straight-Grease-Zerk-Nipple-Fitting-10-Pcs-/171521076894
Actually getting my Ballistic Joints to take grease whether from the flush or regular style zerks was a whole other story. IDK what the problem was but for the 6 months or so I had the arms I could never get a drop of grease into those joints. The gun and zerks were fine.

p m said:
Not sure. They may be the same; for the poly joints that don't get deformed (like in your design), they need to be lubricated - and IIRC your design had a provision for it, but... if I mounted the arm with the zerk facing upwards, it would be sheared by the axletube - so they were mounted facing down (with predictable results).

Another thing I noticed was that the inner core (the hollow tube passing through the halves of poly bushings) was a little shorter than the distance between the brackets - so I had to "pad" the bushings with washers. While it keeps the appearance tight, it also prevents the bushing from being able to rotate - and it gets torn up quickly. BTW, Brett, it may be your case as well.
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Mongo

Mongo

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why leave the zerks in…greases 'em up, remove and cap it. I've always done that, even on driveshafts and such

As for BF joints not taking grease, I've heard that was a issue, but I don't have that problem
 
fishEH

fishEH

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Is there a downside to leaving them in??

Mongo said:
why leave the zerks in…greases 'em up, remove and cap it. I've always done that, even on driveshafts and such

As for BF joints not taking grease, I've heard that was a issue, but I don't have that problem
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