ultimate cargo setup
- Thread starter varova87
- Start date
I just built one... It's basically just like Rupp's, but better.
That Mountainsmith bag is pretty cool.
That Mountainsmith bag is pretty cool.
Now that the rollcage is done, the rack bolts to it. I used 1" square 13 gauge tube and expanded steel for the floor ('bout 60 bucks in steel). I'll take more some pics...One of these days I'll build a drawer for the bottom...lot's of plans, absolutely no time to do anything...also it's setup for pelican 1600 cases...
Okay...here is what I did in mine. Fits like a glove.
Write up on the install:
http://www.disconomad.com/DiscoNomad/Blog/8D00E159-D354-44D6-BE88-C23F552405BF.html
Write up on the install:
http://www.disconomad.com/DiscoNomad/Blog/8D00E159-D354-44D6-BE88-C23F552405BF.html
yeah that much money could go a lot farther in other areas.
im thinking im going to build 2 side by side drawers on slides. one drawer will be 16x16x35. if you will check the dimensions on a basic cube from mountainsmith (that mountainsmith bag above has 4 cubes inside it), each bag is 15x15x7.5. The way I see it, the one drawer will act as a perfect size "file drawer" for 4 cubes. Pretty much the idea of that bag a few posts earlier, but they will be tucked in a drawer, and labeled.
what do you think?
im thinking im going to build 2 side by side drawers on slides. one drawer will be 16x16x35. if you will check the dimensions on a basic cube from mountainsmith (that mountainsmith bag above has 4 cubes inside it), each bag is 15x15x7.5. The way I see it, the one drawer will act as a perfect size "file drawer" for 4 cubes. Pretty much the idea of that bag a few posts earlier, but they will be tucked in a drawer, and labeled.
what do you think?
Oh retarded it sure is but that goes for a lot of mods I have done on the DiscoNomad. :smilelol:
what about the fuel pump ? how long will it take to take the drawers out ? In case of a repair ?
Heres what I did...nothing fancy...uses the seatbelt bolts to hold it down.
Tie downs are now into the wood and not the truck sheetmetal.
The rh jumpseat area it taken by a 5 gal nato can using a modified seatbelt to strap it down using the jumpseat mounting points.
Powertank on the otherside.
Husky pro socket set to the left and a husky air tool set to the right/center.far right had tree strap,clevis,gas nozzles.
http://images19.fotki.com/v26/photos/6/66370/1997641/CV075-vi.jpg
Tie downs are now into the wood and not the truck sheetmetal.
The rh jumpseat area it taken by a 5 gal nato can using a modified seatbelt to strap it down using the jumpseat mounting points.
Powertank on the otherside.
Husky pro socket set to the left and a husky air tool set to the right/center.far right had tree strap,clevis,gas nozzles.
http://images19.fotki.com/v26/photos/6/66370/1997641/CV075-vi.jpg
$100 bucks @ home depot for all materials - including a close factory match carpet.
heavy enough with a tight fit so I didn't need to bolt it down - so it's removable which is a plus IMHO. Still have access to factory tie-downs to strap stuff on top.
I have 2 x 12" subs (not shown) I am finishing a low-profile (7.5" high) speaker box that will slide on top but still be able to be covered by the pull-out. Speakers will face upwards.
heavy enough with a tight fit so I didn't need to bolt it down - so it's removable which is a plus IMHO. Still have access to factory tie-downs to strap stuff on top.
I have 2 x 12" subs (not shown) I am finishing a low-profile (7.5" high) speaker box that will slide on top but still be able to be covered by the pull-out. Speakers will face upwards.
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Your truck is exceptionally well built.
varova87 said:
I will try and explain simply...
Build the box that the drawer wil go in. Be sure it is square in regards to all angles.
Then build another box, that is an inch smaller on all dimensions.
The bottom piece should be the template add the sides then the ends in that order.
I should note that you need to decide whether your drawer face is going on the outside of the frame or inside nice and flush.
I added the face of the drawer as another layer to the front.
Hope that helps... I will post pics soon.
The Limey said:
This is a great idea. I recommend anyone who tackels this job to leave a space underneath or above the drawers to slide things into. In my case since I use the x-jack as a primary jack, it is the last thing in my truck that doesn't have its own place. Right now it lives between the Engle and the back window being tied to the hand restraint but it also takes up room. It would be nice to have been able to slide it into a little cubby out of the way. I have been toying with the idea of adding a sort of x-jack cubby to the top of the drawer system on the dirver side but of course at the expense of precious space. Most trips the x-jack finds it self on the roof rack if there is room. Sean had some good ideas for a drawer system. Maybe he can chime in.
Thanks guys.
I never thought another post about storage drawers would come up again, but goes to show what I know. I designed a set of storage drawers that secure to the floor of my '95 DI using the four existing mounting points. It takes less than 30 minutes to install or remove and should take about a weekend or less to make. It weighs about 80lbs empty and a lot when full. There are four tie-down points on the top so I can secure my two Pelican cases and cooler. You can see photos of the in-progress state here:
http://community.webshots.com/user/mudy_ovl
I have since added the drawers which can support 100lbs each, fully extended and secure with slide latches. FYI, latches are a must if you have to open your rear door when facing uphill. If not, you have one hell of a time trying to hold the drawers shut and closing the rear door. Ask me how I know. I have a basic info package and everything was bought at either Home Debit, L--owes or OSH. Total cost was jsut over $200.00. The $200.00+ included matching carpet and the sleeper kit. The sleeper kit works with the second row seats foldedd once and the front seats tilted all the way forward. It provides just enough room for my 6'1" 200lb frame. Best of luck with your storage drawers.
Regards,
Chris D.
Mudy_Ovl
http://community.webshots.com/user/mudy_ovl
I have since added the drawers which can support 100lbs each, fully extended and secure with slide latches. FYI, latches are a must if you have to open your rear door when facing uphill. If not, you have one hell of a time trying to hold the drawers shut and closing the rear door. Ask me how I know. I have a basic info package and everything was bought at either Home Debit, L--owes or OSH. Total cost was jsut over $200.00. The $200.00+ included matching carpet and the sleeper kit. The sleeper kit works with the second row seats foldedd once and the front seats tilted all the way forward. It provides just enough room for my 6'1" 200lb frame. Best of luck with your storage drawers.
Regards,
Chris D.
Mudy_Ovl