yellow top blowing up ?

D

D Chapman

Guest
syoung said:
Yeah, I'd like to see those fuses between everything you've got there- because they aren't there.
.


Come on Steve! I thought those fuses do not exist! How many time do you want to change your story??
 
Last edited:
D

D Chapman

Guest
syoung said:
None of those first pics looked much like a truck- the rest are from an ambulance... what's the relevance? Do you need me to post a pic of an ambulance and a Disco to demonstrate the differences? :rolleyes: -

Yeah, no way any of that could be fitted to a Land Rover, huh. Never mind the fact is was a job completed last week and I dont know shit about wiring.....


syoung said:
Your desire to argue overrides any sense of reality. Just like the thread about BWO- you shoot off your mouth about stuff you don't know. You comment on the wiring in a truck you know nothing about and reference a picture taken after the wiring was removed. -

LOL, like you know what I know.

As far as your truck, I can look at it and tell the attention to detail you have. Everything on that truck was a POS, even your home brew wiring job with no fuses. Are you surprised it burned???? Come on, Steve, really?


syoung said:
Experts with real training who have seen it in person have spoken- but no, T-bone the redneck knows more from several hundred miles away. -

Yeah, I've been to training classes before. You walk in at 7am, still asleep with a Big Gulp full of coffee. It takes you 30-minutes to wake up, and once you do, you're more worried about taking a piss that actually paying attention. Once you do get a piss break then you start worrying about lunch. After lunch, you're too tired to pay attention and you need to take a shit. By the end of the class, the instructor goes over all the answers to the test you're about to take and you end up cheating off your partner anyway. Expert training at it's best!!! Come on, tell me I'm wrong!

syoung said:
Whatever... I'm going to look at a D110 tomorrow.-

Believe me, I have no envy. A 110, or even a 90, is a over priced can on wheels. Sure, they're neat, but I'm not sharing your love.

syoung said:
My truck still looks better and is worth more than yours... hahhehhehahheh. -

I'm driving mine, lol.


syoung said:
Too bad every discussion has to get diverted because you want to argue-

I'm not arguing, you're just full of shit.
 

Bannon88

Well-known member
Nov 3, 2004
1,967
0
50
Columbia, IL
D Chapman said:
Come on Steve! I thought those fuses do not exist! How many time do you want to change your story??

Steve can change his story as often as he wants, he has a time machine in his "garage", he'll just go back and fix it later. All of us will be none the wiser.


Steve,

If, and that's a big if, you screwed up the wiring you stated you'd be man enough to admit it. It's not the admitting part that I don't buy, it's the part about you being a man that struck me as odd.
 

ChicagoDon

Well-known member
Feb 22, 2005
1,491
2
38
Chicago IL
Bannon88 said:
Steve can change his story as often as he wants, he has a time machine in his "garage", he'll just go back and fix it later. All of us will be none the wiser.

Why would he fix it? he has 35 more cars left :smilelol: :rofl: remember?

And Dan since we are on this topic, I have a 750 watt inverter in my truck. What Amp rated fuse should I be running for that thing, its got 8GA wire.
 
D

D Chapman

Guest
Depends on what type Inverter you're running. I don't know shit about common grade inverters - seems it's either good or it's junk.

But, rule of thumb, (750w / 12 = ) 63 Amps. So, a 60 amp fuse would be ok.

If you are running under 10 feet of cable, you need at least a 4 gauge wire. If not, your 750w inverter is not going to work properly (optimum) and the wire could over heat, then you end up like Steve. Over 10 feet, you need to jump to a 3 gauge. Over 15 feet, a 2ga.
 
S

syoung

Guest
blah blah blah.... bunch of kids, or at least poor excuses for adults.
All the fuses in the world don't do anything when a battery lets go. You can speculate and argue and make up fake "facts" all you want- doesn't change anything. The only thing not fused is the winch- with a manual cut-off that wouldn't have done any good. No fuses between the isolator solenoid and batts, but in a failure, all it would do is not isolate them... so what?
Doesn't matter- either I fix it or I get a new one. If I stopped someone else from getting a POS optima, it's a good thing.
 
Last edited:
D

D Chapman

Guest
syoung said:
blah blah blah.... bunch of kids, or at least poor excuses for adults.
All the fuses in the world don't do anything when a battery lets go. You can speculate and argue and make up fake "facts" all you want- doesn't change anything. The only thing not fused is the winch- with a manual cut-off that wouldn't have done any good. No fuses between the isolator solenoid and batts, but in a failure, all it would do is not isolate them... so what?
Doesn't matter- either I fix it or I get a new one. If I stopped someone else from getting a POS optima, it's a good thing.


LOL, change your story a few more times before we hit 500 posts......
 

Bannon88

Well-known member
Nov 3, 2004
1,967
0
50
Columbia, IL
syoung said:
make up fake "facts" all you want-


Funny, you chose to use those words. Those are the words we use most often to describe you and your "possessions". :rofl:

But that's just us kids. Being stupid.

Here's an idea.
Just copy the wiring used on your helicopter, I'm sure it's done correctly, you just didn't do it. And since it hasn't blown up yet, it sure be a good starting place. Plus you have it right there in your garage, so what more do you need?
 
S

syoung

Guest
Your reading comprehension must be really poor- or once again you're just trying to be a dick. What's with the heli thing anyway- I used to crew a Pave Hawk, but they didn't let me keep it. I'm sure you don't know stuff like that though. Jealousy is a horrible thing- you should seek help or get a better job if it eats you up that much. Maybe I'll sell you some of my old stuff I don't want anymore so you can satisfy your inadequacy issues.
My story hasn't changed at all... just because you say it doesn't make it true. The winch wasn't fused, but the accessories were- as stated before:
"The only accessory taps coming from the batteries had fuses individually behind a distibution block which was protected by a marine grade circuit breaker."
The stock wiring was connected to the main battery. You really should learn to read.
 

Bannon88

Well-known member
Nov 3, 2004
1,967
0
50
Columbia, IL
Steve,

I learn to read when you take a wiring class from Chapman.

Deal?

That way I'll be smart enough to follow your post, and you won't blow up another one of your 35 cars.
 

F18Guy

Well-known member
Mar 30, 2004
2,185
0
54
Down by the big rock
Excellent Thanks Robbie.

Those terminals appear to be threaded. I assume that the SAE terminal connection is threaded on and included..............?
 
Last edited:

Robbie

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
1,463
1
NOVA
yeah, my sae studs were not included. picked them up at the battery store for a few bucks.
 

MontrealRR90

Well-known member
May 21, 2004
1,582
0
62
Montreal,Canada
read this on optimas web site ? Pretty interesting :cool:

Safety Information:



Always wear safety glasses when working with batteries.

Always use a voltage regulated battery charger with limits set to the above ratings. Overcharging can cause the safety valves to open and battery gasses to escape, resulting in premature failure.
These gasses are flammable! You cannot replace water in sealed batteries that have been overcharged. Any battery that becomes very hot or makes a hissing sound while recharging should be disconnected immediately.

D51 & D51R - D35 - D75/25 - D34 - D34/78
These batteries are dual purpose. They are designed for engine start and cyclic applications and for use in vehicles with large accessory loads.

Recommended charging information:

Alternator:
13.65 to 15.0 volts, no amperage limit.

Battery charger:
13.8 to 15.0 volts, 10 amps maximum, 6-12 hours approximate.

Cyclic Applications:
14.7 volts, no current limit as long as battery temperature remains below 125°F (51.7°C). When current falls below 1 amp, finish with 2 amp constant current for 1 hour.

Rapid Recharge:
Maximum voltage 15.6 volts (regulated).
Maximum current: No limit as long as temperature <125°F (51.7°C).
Maximum recharge time: Charge until current drops below 1 amp.

Float charge:
13.2 to 13.8 volts, 1 amp maximum current, time indefinite (at lower voltage).

All limits must be strictly adhered to.