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I'm in the middle of replacing the Y-Pipe on my D2 and ran into some issues with leaks. I bought an aftermarket one on ebay, comes in two pieces with the mate between the two halves done with a clamp. I went this route because I thought it might actually give me a slight bit of adjustment if...

Truck has a chirping sound getting progressively louder. Did the screwdriver trick, sounded like the tensioner pulley, but no dice when I replaced it, luckily that's a cheap one. Could be one of the idlers but it really sounds like the AC compressor. The only thing is that the AC works and...

So my master cylinders gave out causing a nice paint stripping leak all through the driver side footwell. Anyway, everything in the hydraulics was looking pretty rough so I decided to do a modest refurbishment of the whole system. Anyway, when I pulled the front brake drums I noticed that I...

My front shock towers have about had it, the bases are flaking away. I don't why these rusted at such an accelerated rate while everything else is pretty clean. Anyway, I've come across multiple options and I'm curious what the best bang for the buck is. I only have an OME HD spring/shock...

How do you tell the difference between a 2.25L and a 2.5L 4cyl? My 67 has a "newer" engine that I ran the serial numbers on and it was dated 1983 I believe. Anyway, I could have swore it was a later 5-bearing 2.25L, but I'm wondering if it's actually a 2.5L. I think the 2.5L came about in...

Probably a dumb question, but do the one shot grease packages work well in leaky series swivel balls or is regular 90w better, especially considering they have not been rebuilt at all on my watch (3 years)

Probably a dumb question, but do the one shot grease packages work well in leaky series swivel balls or is regular 90w better?

Primarily the driver side rear door, although some of my others are starting to rust, too. I pulled the ruber squeegee thing up and looked down in the door and found that there is nothing left of it really in there. Must have gotten water trapped in it. I guess if anybody has a wreck or...

I need the whole thing. At some point in time somebody removed the entire linkage and put in a cable which just snapped and I can't find any shops that can find a replacement. If anybody has upgraded to a V8 or any other massive engine replacement job and have this stuff lying around let me know.

Not sure if that's the proper name or not, but on my D2 I noticed last night that the one rubber boot covering the bottom joint on the D/S front hub assembly has torn. I'll get a picture when I can but basically there look to be a top and bottom joint that the whole wheel assembly pivots on...

Okay, I did the Sea Foam treatment, she smoked and ran like crap just like everybody else's seems to and just like my Tacoma did when I did that. However I now have an SES light on, not blinking. I'm guessing it's the O2 sensor although I have not had the codes read yet (truck has 70k with...

How do you tell the difference just looking at them? I have what I think is a 2.25L 5 bearing engine but it has the Weber carb that the 2.5 came with stock. I'm assuming this was added later, but I have no history on the truck. It has a later style Ducellier distributor, not sure if I can...

Is there anything special about buying something in the UK using Paypal? I've been given a price in pounds and I'm curious if Paypal will handle the conversion at the time of purchase or anything?

Okay, I posted a little about this in a carburetor thread, but I'm not so sure it's the carb, anyway here is the problem. After driving at a constant speed for a few minutes in 4th gear, the truck will buck and misfire, if I lay off the throttle it seams to correct itself, but will do it again...

I have a very late 2.25 in my truck (early 80's I guess) with a Weber, I'm not sure how to identify the carburetor in order to buy a rebuild kit. It has a tag with a serial number, but no model number or anything. Not sure if there are a variety of one barrel Webers or not, my only real...

I'm looking for any info on how to install the original rectangular Smith's heater. I have no idea how the wiring works. Also not sure where it mounts exactly or what I need to do to mount it. Pictures would be great, too. Thanks in advance.

Looking for any parts anybody might have for the old rectangular Smith's heater. Primarily any of the electrics. My housing and core are good, but I'll consider anything that somebody might have laying around for the right price.

I have two bad leaky pinion seals, I'm getting ready to order parts and I was wondering if I just need the oil seal or if there is anything else that needs to be replaced as a matter of course. Thanks in advance.

Copley is asking $45k for a Series II 88. The pictures make it look beautiful and I'm sure it's flawless, but $45,000 for a Series?

Now that I have my truck running really well, I notice that it leaks quite a bit of coolant when it's hot. Specifically from the bottom hose/water pump joint and up around the gaskets in the thermostat housing. My best guess is that I removed the heater tubing and plugged both the in and out...