can you guys put together a resellable kit with ALL THE PARTS/INSTRUCTIONS for the lazy types? i can paypal, and you the seller can charge me a margin for your efforts...
Fan Clutch
- Thread starter DiscoArt
- Start date
I'm curious. Is there anyway you could use a D1 radiator with this setup to make bleeding the system of air easier?
On the T-stat, what temp do you recommend? What's optimum for these motors? 180-185? I'm moving to TX, so what about 170?
So I really don't know if anyone likes my design but here are the few major parts I used.
36mm hose gauge adapter. Great quality with 1/8 npt fitting. Summit also sells items like these but almost 4 times the cost. Yes from Hong Kong. Took about 10 days for delivery.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/36mm-Water-temp-Gauge-Radiator-Hose-Sensor-Adaptor-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem45eb71a86dQQitemZ300302837869QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
Inline thermostat. Cheaper but took about 10 days for delivery.
http://www.meziere.com/ps-572-0-WN0072.aspx
I also got the 185 degree thermostat.
also
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MEZ-WN0072/ same part faster shipping more money.
Now discoArt mentions the part number for the BMW lower hose. His mod looks better. I just need a way to bleed the air on the upper hose.
I'm not planning on selling anykind of kit. It works for me but results may vary,,,yada yada yada. Heres to a better cooling summer.
The D1 radiator would never fit the D2. With all those transmission coolers and engine oil coolers it would never fit.
I'm still confused why Rover would ever have gone with that bypass thermostat. I know BMW was involved with the D2 and that thermostat looks to be a throwback to some of the thermostats on old 2002's and 320i's. As far as why they wanted the thermostats to have such a high opening range. Well its how all the car companies are these days. Even a chevy has 205 degree t-stat stock. Its all about emissions. Cars run cleaner hotter. That being said I have not noticed any change in gas consumption.
I've driven this D2 up into the mountains skiing more than a dozen times since my mod. Very nice climbing Mt. Hood with a steady temp. I figure if I can put that kind of stress on the engine this should last forever.
This being said if your D2 runs cool with your factory system why mess with it. Maybe I was just unlucky and bought 2 or 3 bad OE thermostats. I doubt it but maybe.
36mm hose gauge adapter. Great quality with 1/8 npt fitting. Summit also sells items like these but almost 4 times the cost. Yes from Hong Kong. Took about 10 days for delivery.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/36mm-Water-temp-Gauge-Radiator-Hose-Sensor-Adaptor-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem45eb71a86dQQitemZ300302837869QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
Inline thermostat. Cheaper but took about 10 days for delivery.
http://www.meziere.com/ps-572-0-WN0072.aspx
I also got the 185 degree thermostat.
also
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MEZ-WN0072/ same part faster shipping more money.
Now discoArt mentions the part number for the BMW lower hose. His mod looks better. I just need a way to bleed the air on the upper hose.
I'm not planning on selling anykind of kit. It works for me but results may vary,,,yada yada yada. Heres to a better cooling summer.
The D1 radiator would never fit the D2. With all those transmission coolers and engine oil coolers it would never fit.
I'm still confused why Rover would ever have gone with that bypass thermostat. I know BMW was involved with the D2 and that thermostat looks to be a throwback to some of the thermostats on old 2002's and 320i's. As far as why they wanted the thermostats to have such a high opening range. Well its how all the car companies are these days. Even a chevy has 205 degree t-stat stock. Its all about emissions. Cars run cleaner hotter. That being said I have not noticed any change in gas consumption.
I've driven this D2 up into the mountains skiing more than a dozen times since my mod. Very nice climbing Mt. Hood with a steady temp. I figure if I can put that kind of stress on the engine this should last forever.
This being said if your D2 runs cool with your factory system why mess with it. Maybe I was just unlucky and bought 2 or 3 bad OE thermostats. I doubt it but maybe.
cool, I mean excellent, my d2 runs 206 max usually in motion, but the idle temps can get higher than I like 211-215..
You could put one of thes at the apex of the upper hose and used it for a temp sensor and bleeder all in one.
http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/Water-Hose-Adapters.aspx
http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/Water-Hose-Adapters.aspx
NICE fellas...
Im def doing this bypass ASAP. I looked at this too to make the bleeder setup.
http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/36mm-water-sender-attachment.aspx
Heck you can run a 1/8 NPT Petcock in place of a water temp unit for those of you running a scangauge.
or buy this if you aren't setting up a second temp gauge.
http://www.streetperformance.com/part/be-cool/radiator-hose/105691-72013.html
....sounds like a new write-up to add to my website, so who came up with mod so I can give him the credit?
Im def doing this bypass ASAP. I looked at this too to make the bleeder setup.
http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/36mm-water-sender-attachment.aspx
Heck you can run a 1/8 NPT Petcock in place of a water temp unit for those of you running a scangauge.
or buy this if you aren't setting up a second temp gauge.
http://www.streetperformance.com/part/be-cool/radiator-hose/105691-72013.html
....sounds like a new write-up to add to my website, so who came up with mod so I can give him the credit?
I just got done doing the ABS mod, thought I was done for a bit...now I've seen this and will be ordering parts to get this done.
jycsalas said:
This was my idea as you can tell by the post order. Although DiscoArt took the game ball and ran with it. So give us both credit for the mod.
I run a seperate temp gauge so thats why I use that gauge manifold.
You for sure can't take out the factory temp sender since that sender also sends info to the engine management system.
If I ever decide to clean up my first mod. I think that maybe just drilling and tapping a bleed screw in the inline thermostat housing would work for the air bleeding. I aslo think that I might drill and tap a temp sender in the intake manifold for my aftermarket temp gauge.
atriot:
Mike26 said:
No problems at all, the truck is running great. I already put about 7K miles on the truck since swapping the thermostat. Just make sure you drill a small hole in your new thermostat, without a hole hot water might not reach it in time to open it. I would not get one of those racing thermostat with bypass holes because the holes are too large and you'll probably be running cold all the time.
Where in relationship to this picture...
http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/testing-engine-thermostats.jpg
did you drill the hole? I saw earlier in the post that a 1/8 inch hole was reccomended. Should I just drill it in the outer silver ring of the termostat?
http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/testing-engine-thermostats.jpg
did you drill the hole? I saw earlier in the post that a 1/8 inch hole was reccomended. Should I just drill it in the outer silver ring of the termostat?