Fan Clutch
- Thread starter DiscoArt
- Start date
Well im sending my thermostat housing back for the smaller 1.25 size. that does look to be the best fit.
I also ordered the same glow shift water temp adapter and a 1/8th npt petcock. But glowshift sent me a GREEN adapter.... =(
I also have the lower BMW hose.... but I have a question
where exactly should i cut it the end caps off?
thanks
I also ordered the same glow shift water temp adapter and a 1/8th npt petcock. But glowshift sent me a GREEN adapter.... =(
I also have the lower BMW hose.... but I have a question
where exactly should i cut it the end caps off?
thanks
jycsalas said:
I had a spare D2 upper hose assembly, so I used the original hose from the upper manifold and the plastic T (didn't need to cut it). Then I used the original hose that went from the plastic T to the thermostat bypass for the new connection between the bleeder and the inline thermo housing. I just cut some off of the end of the hose.
Also, regarding the BMW hose, I just cut the ends off as close to the clamps that I could. I had to cut a little more off to connect to the radiator bottom, but I didn't want to cut it too short at first.
Jim
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discoreiver said:
I'm curious as to the condition/age of your radiator and viscous clutch. You may have a radiator that is partially blocked and/or the viscous clutch isn't working up to par and may need replacing.
About to do this. Are there any issues with the heater hose or the resovoir return inlet line?
edit: I think I see now. I was originally under the impression that the lower came off the pump directly but it appears you just go from that three way junction to the lower end of radiator. Am I seeing this correctly now?
edit: I think I see now. I was originally under the impression that the lower came off the pump directly but it appears you just go from that three way junction to the lower end of radiator. Am I seeing this correctly now?
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Has anyone, who has done this mod, had any issues with heat soak after the engine is turned off?
discoreiver said:
No problems noted...my temps rise some after shut down just like they did before is normal.
My temps here have been around a 100 on the pavement in slow traffic a lot and have been working well.
B
bguetter
Guest
So just so i have the right parts in mind........32mm (1 1/4) is what i need for both the meziere thermo housing and the water sender adaptor from glowshift?
And what year chevy thermostats? 2 1/8 diameter seems common
And what year chevy thermostats? 2 1/8 diameter seems common
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Same here. On another mod I did recently was rewire my aux-fan to operate when the AC is on. Ths is how most cars operate. The Rover gods decided the aux-fan should only operate when the outside temp is above 85 degrees and under 50 MPH.
I use the AC clutch power to operate a fused relay that turns the fan on. I just tapped into the hot lead going to the fan so as not to disable the Rover set-up that way on the extreme chance that my engine hits 209 degress(hopefully never will again) the aux-fan would turn on regardless if I'm running the AC.
I got this idea from one of flyfisher11 posts on another thread but he runs a set-up that he can dial in the operating temp settings via a switch. Cool idea but since my wife drives this D2 most the time dials and knobs would be lost in the mess of coffee cups and gas receipts.
I use the AC clutch power to operate a fused relay that turns the fan on. I just tapped into the hot lead going to the fan so as not to disable the Rover set-up that way on the extreme chance that my engine hits 209 degress(hopefully never will again) the aux-fan would turn on regardless if I'm running the AC.
I got this idea from one of flyfisher11 posts on another thread but he runs a set-up that he can dial in the operating temp settings via a switch. Cool idea but since my wife drives this D2 most the time dials and knobs would be lost in the mess of coffee cups and gas receipts.
JohnB said:
How did you go about tapping into the AC clutch?
BTW, for bguetter, I'm running a 180 degree chevy thermostat with an 1/8" hole drilled thru the outer rim of it.
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discoreiver said:
I mean the plug that powers the fan clutch. I spliced into the positive wire to trigger a relay that powers up the aux-fan. The relay is fused and gets its power directly from the battery. I'm sure I could have also spliced this wire somewhere else but I didn't feel like digging into wire schematics to find the correct wire on the fuse box.
It is one of the wires in the plug on the top of the fuse box. (Connector C0570-2, a green wire with a white stripe.) It completes the path to ground, though. It doesn't connect to a + voltage source.JohnB said:
is anyone getting any ECM faults for not running in proper temp range?
Me and a master LR tech friend were discussing something similar to this, most liners drop on the backside of the motor, there is no coolant passage for new coolant to enter or exit like there is on the front, so we were thinking about drilling and tapping bungs into the intake manifold where the rear head coolant passages are blocked, merging them and bringing it forward and tie-ing back into the coolant pipe that comes forward out from the lower intake.
we tried to see if the lower intake would ride backwards, but the a/c compressor and alternator are in the way.
I really think that by getting it to run cooler and re-flashing the ECM, it would be a more efficient motor and maybe make more power. As I recall, they run rich to keep it from running too hot, but they run hot because they run rich and must meet the emissions guidelines. IMO it would run cleaner using less fuel running cooler. I dunno....
Will this work on a P38? those run really hot.....
Me and a master LR tech friend were discussing something similar to this, most liners drop on the backside of the motor, there is no coolant passage for new coolant to enter or exit like there is on the front, so we were thinking about drilling and tapping bungs into the intake manifold where the rear head coolant passages are blocked, merging them and bringing it forward and tie-ing back into the coolant pipe that comes forward out from the lower intake.
we tried to see if the lower intake would ride backwards, but the a/c compressor and alternator are in the way.
I really think that by getting it to run cooler and re-flashing the ECM, it would be a more efficient motor and maybe make more power. As I recall, they run rich to keep it from running too hot, but they run hot because they run rich and must meet the emissions guidelines. IMO it would run cleaner using less fuel running cooler. I dunno....
Will this work on a P38? those run really hot.....
No faults...running perfect. Have around 4k on it since mod. I don't see why this wouldn't work on a p-38.
jeffro0502 said:
I wondered about this myself. Not that my 99 would ever have this fault but maybe a D2 with SAI might. Since the radiator has a temp sensor that is supposed to throw a fault if the temp from the radiator and engine don't match. I'm betting the temp discrepancy is probably 20-40 degree sweep to get a fault.