RTE slider mod

JSQ

JSQ

Well-known member
Apr 21, 2004
3,259
1
44
San Diego, CA
After years of field trial and testing I've finally fabricated a solution for addressing issues with the RTE nerf slider design.

The first iteration 3 years ago involved welding the two components of each slider together with plate.
Second interation 2 years ago saw the slider solid mounted to the frame with four sections of 2.5" tubing on each side.
Neither of these could prevent rotation and door blockage.

I was finally able to re-engineer the design successfully last night.
Please see attached.
 

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MUSKYMAN

MUSKYMAN

Well-known member
Apr 19, 2004
8,277
0
OverBarrington IL
So complete removal is the plan?

man with all the trees we wheel around as much as I hate the door grinding across the slider:rolleyes: :banghead: I guess I will be living with it.

My truck would be toast without the nerfs...oh wait maybe it allready is toast:rofl:
 
JSQ

JSQ

Well-known member
Apr 21, 2004
3,259
1
44
San Diego, CA
MUSKYMAN said:
So complete removal is the plan?

man with all the trees we wheel around as much as I hate the door grinding across the slider:rolleyes: :banghead: I guess I will be living with it.

My truck would be toast without the nerfs...oh wait maybe it allready is toast:rofl:
Click to expand...

If it were only a matter of doors *grinding* across the slider I might have lived with it, but when Rubicon and Dusy Ershim involve you climbing in and out your window endlessly, it gets old fast.

The doors were going to get f'ed up one way or another. Either from pivot turns, rock gouges or from the sliders tearing up the bottom edge. I'm making my priority the uncommon luxury of opening AND closing. I know, I spoil myself.
 
D

D Chapman

Guest
Although I don't think that will hurt, but I don't think it will solve the problem, either.

The two piece design is the problem. On my bootie-fab sliders (two piece) I built for my truck, I do not have near the extension RTE does on their sliders. Yet, I still get the deflection and distorted sill. Rarely do I hit the nerf from the bottom side to lever the slider up, but I still have the movement problem.

On the sliders I built for Jeff Bang, there is no problem. Later, Slickrock started producing sliders like the ones I made for Jeff. I'm not sure if Dave is seeing this problem or not, but to date Jeff's sliders still look really good.

Frame mounted would be tits, but it's so hard to do this on the Disco. I have yet to see an attractive design on frame mounted sliders for the Rovers.

I built some frame mounted sliders for Koren O'Neil on her FZJ-80 about 3-years ago. She's nailed them over and over again on the CO trails, and they have yet to budge. I think by making a frame mounted slider, that would be the fix to the Rover slider problem. Only problem is, it's damn near a PITA to make the slider effective and not take away from clearance issues.
 
JSQ

JSQ

Well-known member
Apr 21, 2004
3,259
1
44
San Diego, CA
All sill-mounted sliders rotate eventually.
There are no exceptions.
RTE, Slick Rock, Dreadnaught, Mantec, Safari Gard, etc.
Even your one-of-a-kind backyard train trestle and I-beam monstrosity.

Let me reinvoke Kyle's coke can theory.
It doesn't matter how tough it is, if you bolt it to a coke can, it will move.
Your sill is a coke can.

The only difference is whether or not your slider is so big that it gets in the way when the rotation occurs.

Frame-mounting is the only possible solution for anything other than light use.
 
D

D Chapman

Guest
But you have to agree, the sliders currently produced by Slickrock are less prone to this problem.
 
emmodg

emmodg

Well-known member
Apr 17, 2006
4,273
1
This doesn't adress this particular problem but I've always wanted to build a set of sliders that have HDPE bolted to the bottoms. (recessed fasteners of course) I would think that this would make them truly slide off of rock instead of grind off. The rock buggy guys use this stuff a lot.

"...collectively ignorant readership..." - Wow, that's a sweeping generalization! (But I know what you mean.)
 
D

D Chapman

Guest
I wonder if the structure a fabricator is forced to use in a frame mounts slider design on the Rover would with-stand abuse...???

Meaning, the braces or mounting system to connect the frame to the "slider" would have to be bent in a way so you still retain clearance between the frame and the sill. Sure, a gusset could be utilized, but even that would get in the way if it were effective.

If the joints were scabbed with 3/16" on each side of the mounting system, I wonder if that would be "bullet proof".

I guess really, if the sill protector was designed with the same concept in mind that Slickrock uses or what EE offered, it could more or less float in place. With mounting riggers bent up and out of the way and welded fast to the frame, the sill protector would have a hard time twisting/rotating in or out, and the actual sill would keep the sill protector from flexing too far up. I wonder if that would just rattle to death or just totally not be worth a shit.
 
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nosivad_bor

nosivad_bor

Well-known member
Mar 27, 2004
6,060
63
Pittsburgh, PA
the solution is to fill the door sills "coke cans"with expanding epoxy foam. Then use solid u mounted sliders like slick rock makes.

http://www.shopmaninc.com/foam.html

16 LB Density Urethane Foam

Common Applications: This 16LB density foam is essentially as hard as a rock, you would need a hammer in order to make any dents in this product. Can be used for sculpting or the casting of objects that require superior toughness and strength. More questions? [Try our Foam FAQ.]
Cat No.

80 LB Kit

5 Cubic Feet

$231.00
 
D

D Chapman

Guest
WillTN said:
How do Rock Ware's sliders mount to the frame?
Click to expand...

Shitty
 

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DiscoveryXD

DiscoveryXD

Well-known member
May 1, 2004
3,617
0
37
where i'm at right now, duh...
haha, I was about to start a thread on this exact same topic. I've been wondering if I should cut my nerfs off for the past month. Granted, I haven't had a problem rotating my sliders yet, but I plan on running the Rubicon this summer, so I'm planning ahead...

I have to cap my sliders today for the bigger tires so I'll definitly be looking at bracing it to the frame.
 
Rover grenade

Rover grenade

Well-known member
Aug 19, 2005
449
0
just based on the steel stock I have for my sliders I am guessing they will weigh more than my front and rear bumper.

My plan is to use the roughly 2x4 steel stock I have to cut out a channel to sandwich the sill on all sides (including the bottom) then add outriggers to the frame and a tube slider/tree slider off the sill mount. We will see how it works.
 
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