The 2016 Land Rover National Rally rolls into Moab, Utah for our biggest event in recent years. This year's event is scheduled from September 19-23, 2016 and we’re expecting over 100 vehicles with 175 attendees from all across the country as well as a few from Canada and the UK.
For those who...
I have a full set of Genuine DII seat covers for sale, both front and rear seats. The from seats are in great shape as I've never used them, the rears were the only ones I used. Most of the time I had the rear seats removed from the truck though so they are in great shape. Just gave them a...
I have 140K on mine and they aren't that worn out. The panhard and ACE Sway bar bushings were the worst offenders that were causing clunks. The radius arms are pretty easy to inspect really.
Dang, just looked up the bushings for the Watts linkage and they are about $350 for the set for genuine ones. That's the last piece of my suspension I have yet to replace. It might have to wait a while.
Yep, I'm sure. Remember these are not steel shells, they are plastic or some type of polymer. They are much more compressible than steel.
Also, just as a note to people who are considering this. My truck has 140K on it. I thought I needed all new bushings but it turns out that wasn't the...
Oh boy, this sounds fun.
So they are actually larger than the holes from the factory? Wonder how the dealerships do this, or if they ever do this...
I only have the 8 so I hope not too many are destroyed, wish me luck.
It's certainly not impossible. They are Genuine parts that I got from Rovers North. Although there's not much else on this truck that has bushings like this and I've heard that some of the Radius Arm bushings are in fact plastic.
I am in the middle of pressing in new Radius Arm bushing (frame and axle ends) and while the frame ends went in fine, it seems as though the axle ends are slightly too large. These are the plastic/nylon wrapped bushings, not the typical steel wrapped bushings that were on the frame end.
They...
Exactly what I did as well. I had to work a little to ensure that the countersunk bolt was completely flush with the 1/8" metal strap. Additionally I threw just a little grease in there as it appeared that the seat would still rub it ever so slightly. I'm not too concerned about it though...
I more or less did the same thing. Once you pull the seat and follow the mechanics of the seat adjustment it becomes pretty obvious what you need to do. basically some steel, a couple of holes and some high quality hardware along with 1-2 hours and you're good to go.
My problem with the D1 has always been that the windshield seems even lower than a D2 and I can't see the stoplights in the D2 as it is. This along with the legroom issue were my only complaints (other than power) with the Discovery II's. I've fixed the legroom issue but won't be fixing the...
The up and down part is actually pretty difficult to modify, the problem is the motor and all the wiring under the seat. Regarding more legroom that's actually not that difficult. Basically build a couple of spacers to "stretch" out the factory mounts and you're good to go. I easily added...
They've changed the design and you no longer have to remove the rails on any of the Disco's. The new design is only offered with one profile that it just in between what was the older high and low profile. Both sunroofs will still open with the new rack. It's quite a good design.
I'll take a few pics of my rack this weekend and post them up. I don't think there are a lot of photos of the updated rack on the web right now. We're in the process of rolling out a new website for ourselves so the photos will come in handy there as well.
This changed with the redesign this year. The feet now sit directly above the pillars just like the SD rack. They also redesigned the front of the rack so that it flows better with the front of the vehicle. I'll post some pics in a few of the updated rack.
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