D2- 35's worth the effort vs higher CG?

[KyleT]

I used the toyota abs sensors straight to the slabs, then used a superlift spedo converter intercepting the speed out signal from the slabs before it split to the other ecu's. it got pretty close. from about 25 indicated at 60 gps to 57ish indicated at 60gps.

kieths setup is essentially (from memory) 30 spline inners with the 24 spline ashcroft cv's like you have, then some 30 spline inners on the rear shafts. the only benefit to his setup is the toy thirds (over what you have), you can do the same with your setup if you want by using toy thirds (8") using ARB lockers and swapping the 30 spline side gears for 24 spline side gears from ARB. or get the custom shafts. He would really be the better person to ask, or the one D2 that has his conversion, he is in Denver on the solihul board, Colin might be his name, cant remember.

The LC ales have 9.5" rear diffs, monster compared to the rovers.

As far as suspension, I did 3link, Frank did radius arms. Both work well from what we each report. I would do a 4link If i did it over again, frank is doing a 4link on his new setup, and 75 has a 4link as well. I basically picked buckontineytires brain on pirate and pretty much copied his KOH defender front setup. Rear is a a-arm 3link. it is ok, but you can feel it rotate around the upper ale link when it flexes. My front was a VERY tight fit and the links rub the tie rod at MAX flex with no springs. It has not rubbed on the trail as far as I can tell as I don't hit the bump stops at flex.

Since you are at this point, I think that you should do it with what you've got. BUT i would get ahold of justin L8 and get some 17x8 wheels and run a true 35x12.50. 315/75/16's are noticeably smaller IMO.

 

[gmookher]

Lets say I want to 4 link my existing rear axle. Do it with what I have got-and roll with it for now. I like the idea of a 'noticeably smaller' 35-is that being silly- it may be in my favor...

Who am I taking my truck to? What kind of money do you want?

.. I'm game to try this. is there any difference how one can be less tippy than the other?ie, is there a reason to three link both ends? am I just being wishful that 4 link may be less tippy?
is there even room to 4 link the front-lots of stuff in teh way unless you move tie rod back to in front and then theres still that low shaft

that may be what make sense retaining my adjustable hd panhard rod up front; tossing the watts. I need help, this is over my experience set

I'm well aware I will need wider rims, I will have to call Justin yes, its pretty easy to unload the rims I have, they are the stoutest thing you can put on a d2 wearing 33s.

 

[achapman]

Gmookher, I would also be in if someone developed something.

I think our trucks are identical right now, minus I have 315/75-16 on shitty pro comp wheels. If the 315 could fit the 7" width of the nato wheel I would switch.

 

[gmookher]

Gmookher, I would also be in if someone developed something.

I think our trucks are identical right now, minus I have 315/75-16 on shitty pro comp wheels. If the 315 could fit the 7" width of the nato wheel I would switch.

curious, what are your complaint(s) besides limited flex with the 35s on the OE arm setup?

turning? tippy? what shocks are you on? did you just space up bump stops?

are you on stock rear arms?(ie stock axle postition)

I'm very curious to see what your rig drives like vs mine

 

[Mongo]

here's a quick breakdown on what a 4 link costs in material, no shop or fab time. One problem is the axle mount for the upper links, no clue but I put a ballpark figure of $100 bucks, it will be more...

Joints:
4 poly bushed $36/$144
4 Orbitals $54/$216
Brackets:
2 Upper Link Frame mounts $45
2 Lower Link Frame mounts $45
Upper Axle mount $100??
Axle link/coil bucket $35
Tube:
12' 2.0-.250 14.50'/$174
Tube bungs 8 $11/88
jam nuts 8 $7/56
Hardware/consumables:
$100.00

Total $1000ish...plus or minus $100.00, but I'd go higher

I'm thinking a upper axle mount could run as little as $50 bucks, but to make something that's not booty could get close to $150, only because we'd be making one. Also gotta check on the shock mounts, hopefully Mike will chime in...

 

[achapman]

Just the flex like everyone else said. I'm running the Terrafirma shocks from Justin. The newer ones. I forgot which model but he stated they would be fine with the RTE springs. I have the RTE radius arms up front. I was hoping GBR would make arms like they did for the D1, as I guess theirs correct castor? Rears are stock.

It is def more tippy IMO. Makes me nervous sometimes, and enough so to avoid black diamond trails where I wheel. Kansas Rock park. I have the quick disconnects for the sways and the rear extensions, but I've just been leaving them connected and playing it safe.

I used the triangle looking Daystar bumpstops. There is a write up somewhere to make them work. I just followed it.

So in a nutshell, the tipsiness became noticeable after the springs and I haven't gone places I did with 33's. Maybe it's in my head, or posts from Jake saying it will end up on its side that make me nervous.

If I could do it over I would have went a different axle route. Not to mention it's very hard to keep the brake pedal down with the large tires on hills.

And it should be known that I am in no way an expert on anything, only my experience and what I read here and on other forums including aulro.

 

[Disco2Guy]

Hey Gem, it's good to see you posting again. I don't know if you remember me, but I was co-pilot with Ron on the NCLR Rubicon trip in '09, and I bought your TW rear driveshaft before that. Where in AZ are you?

If you decide to sell your RTE Watts, I'd buy it from you. Take care, I'm interested to see what you wind up doing with your truck.

 

[gmookher]

Mongo, and anyone else, who knows what it is that makes the addition of 35s to a OE setup So tippy- is it axle width? perch width? spring mount width? is one more critical than the other?

does going to fjz80 increase track? what are the compelling arguements for or agains this-rover specific, without turning this into a pirate thread-what am I looking for, as a guy wheels a d2, and wants a little more tire, AND wants a little more stability than I have with 33s- what is it I need to do to get 35s on here, non tippy, first lets look at a money no object solution, then, lets add some budget restraint-first looking at retaining my current axles, and well, if that goes south then I see why folks are doing swaps..

I do need a little education here

would simply re perching and reshockmounting an OE axle considerably improve the tippy feeling ACHAPMAN is citing?
if so, then the parts list and labor costs seem well worth it

this is why I am willng to spend the coin. me no like tippy.

Does relinking front and rear axles with correctly spaced wheels get me what I need if I am ok living with accelerated hub wear?
what solution is there for the brakes? that sounds lik its important

 

[gmookher]

Hey Gem, it's good to see you posting again. I don't know if you remember me, but I was co-pilot with Ron on the NCLR Rubicon trip in '09, and I bought your TW rear driveshaft before that. Where in AZ are you?

If you decide to sell your RTE Watts, I'd buy it from you. Take care, I'm interested to see what you wind up doing with your truck.

Hey man, yeah that was a great trip!!!! I mean totally a beautiful camping-Tim Scully was a rad guide-, mostly wheeling overload All day, and holy carnage. And the dude with the restaurant who catered, that was a great idea well worth the cost.

sorry-what was ur name? I will never forget the sound of the bear throwing threes at night

I'm in sedona. Still exploring the state, but there is some good wheeling to be had here too.
Its a big state.

Rubicon-
I'm ready to do it again, whether I stay on 33s or go to 35s, thats a trail that needs to be re run

I missed out on the NCLR Dusy Trip, but I def want in if there is another run this year!Pls pass that onto Ron and crew!

 

[Disco2Guy]

Name's Brenton.

I visited Sedona for a day over Christmas break (my mom lives in Anthem). Next time I'm out that way I'll look you up.

Yeah, Tim's awesome. He's going to be at Hollister Hills this weekend, and I might go down to see him.

I'll let you know if we do the Dusy or Rubi this year. Seems we alternate which trail is run each year. I'm still saving pennies (should be half dollars though) to upgrade the driveline of my truck.

TTLY, Gem!

-B

 

[ptschram]

Mongo, and anyone else, who knows what it is that makes the addition of 35s to a OE setup So tippy- is it axle width? perch width? spring mount width? is one more critical than the other?

Granted I'm not in a DII but I'm amazed at how stable my RRC is.

If you're willing to cut body panels, much more is open to you.

 

[KyleT]

It's anti squat and binding flex per say.

 

[seventyfive]

....RTE springs. I have the RTE radius arms up front.

are they the progressive rte springs? if so, you need to put linear on.
didn't know rte had cranked arms for a 3". the rte 3" springs will give a d2 about 4" lift, but they are progressive, which adds to the 'tippy' feeling.

here's my two cents on putting a 35" tire on a d2.

1) as far as weight and wheel hub concerns;
my q78+steel wheel=about 85 pounds.
a 33" bfg km+steel wheel=79 pounds.
the additional weight hasn't affected my hubs.

2) you have to trim the body, bumpers, and sliders.

3) the perfect spring would be a 4" linear spring, with either bigger bump stops or bump cans to limit your up travel to about 4".

4) 14" emulsion shocks (unless your driving 75 mph on washboard you really don't need reservoirs.)

5) you need cranked arms to get your wheel base to at least 99".

6) cones in the front and inverted cones for the rear.

7) you may need to trim the rear upper shock mount so when you drop out completely the shock doesn't bind and snap.

it's not necessary to link the front and rear, but if you don't DO NOT follow a defender, d1, or classic especially a toyota or jeep that is built....if you are following a line that the other trucks looked tippy on, you WILL need a tree to slide your roof on. the radius arms and watts will not let you take the same line without good driving or a tree to slide on.

you don't need bigger brakes. just good brake components. if you do link the truck, (properly) you will actually have too much braking, trust me. and you will be able to climb way easier than with your radius arms.

 

[KyleT]

\
you don't need bigger brakes. just good brake components. if you do link the truck, (properly) you will actually have too much braking, trust me. and you will be able to climb way easier than with your radius arms.

meh, the D2 brakes leave alot to be desired...

and yes, it climbs lie a goat.

 

[seventyfive]

what does meh mean?

ate slotted rotors and pbr pads work pretty good. i've tried, hawk, pagid, and textar, all seem to crack but the cheapy pbr/axxis metal masters hold up pretty well. upsetting actually, i use hawk hp plus on our cars, but the hawk lt pads sucked.

 

[KevinNY]

Sell the D2 and buy a nice rust free '97 Land Cruiser. 3" lift, 35's, stock lockers, done.

 

[achapman]

You know I am not sure. I'm wanting to say the part numbers were just RTE-4 and RTE-3?? Sorry I can't remember nor can I find it in my email history. I'll look tomorrow.

Also could you link a shock you would recommend? Is Coilovers an option?

are they the progressive rte springs? if so, you need to put linear on.
didn't know rte had cranked arms for a 3". the rte 3" springs will give a d2 about 4" lift, but they are progressive, which adds to the 'tippy' feeling.

4) 14" emulsion shocks (unless your driving 75 mph on washboard you really don't need reservoirs.)

.

 

[Jake1996D1]

Sell the D2 and buy a nice rust free '97 Land Cruiser. 3" lift, 35's, stock lockers, done.

get out of here trader!

 

[gmookher]

1) as far as weight and wheel hub concerns;
my q78+steel wheel=about 85 pounds.
a 33" bfg km+steel wheel=79 pounds.
the additional weight hasn't affected my hubs.
Great so we proceed with my current setup.

2) you have to trim the body, bumpers, and sliders.
no issues there.

3) the perfect spring would be a 4" linear spring, with either bigger bump stops or bump cans to limit your up travel to about 4".
Can you recommend what to use here? I have ol skool rte's. they are tippy. I'd like softer rates in the back. Front feels nice.

4) 14" emulsion shocks (unless your driving 75 mph on washboard you really don't need reservoirs.)
again, need recommendation. Open to coil over but cant break the bank entirely...
5) you need cranked arms to get your wheel base to at least 99".

6) cones in the front and inverted cones for the rear.
ok
7) you may need to trim the rear upper shock mount so when you drop out completely the shock doesn't bind and snap.

it's not necessary to link the front and rear, but if you don't DO NOT follow a defender, d1, or classic especially a toyota or jeep that is built....if you are following a line that the other trucks looked tippy on, you WILL need a tree to slide your roof on. the radius arms and watts will not let you take the same line without good driving or a tree to slide on.

okay so it IS necessary to link front and rear

you don't need bigger brakes. just good brake components. if you do link the truck, (properly) you will actually have too much braking, trust me. and you will be able to climb way easier than with your radius arms.
can you explain that last part?

 

[gmookher]

Sell the D2 and buy a nice rust free '97 Land Cruiser. 3" lift, 35's, stock lockers, done.

If I had that ounce of common sense would I have started this thread?