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check the rubber strip on the front vertical, mine slipped upwards and was jamming, exact same as you experienced. didn't find it till the regulator started popping...will, I'll probably be calling next week

somewhat, depending on what parts need swapped. Your ECU will fit, and kind-of controll the p38, but the "eas fault: slow 35mph max" message will not clear from the dash, and the height won't be manually selectable. The blocks are the same except for the mounting, so he can use the valves...

depends on exactly what you're looking at/for and your budget. They're all apples, but you've got granny smiths, washingtons, and fujis.... 1-the OEM springs are dunlop (some come from firestone) and are natural rubber, which is where the cracking/dry-rot problems come from in the old ones. I...

Me too...

you've got a hard-spot for those orings don't you. I just replaced #6 wire on the wifes DII with SAI (of course) and HOLY SHIT! who came up with that crap?? 2 hours to get the SAI pipe out of the way and 5 minutes to replace the wire. I'd do them all but it's too damn cold out. I had a...

they have different part numbers for bosch vs. gems, but they do look identical. Gems is $150 more for a new one, if it works maybe you've found a money saver for the rest of us....

the pollen filter covers are under the windshield, you can get them with the hood up, water can run into the ventilation system and out the foot vents. while you're in there the filters probably need changed. A chunk of washable furnace filter works pretty well, and doesn't cost $15 a pop...

pollen filter covers leaking?

Jim, how many times do I have to tell you, you don't have to change the position, just twist them :) (I wanted to stay away from this one, thanks Jim....) PT, a little dish-soap and a twist, the new bags pop right on the old horns. someone asked near the beginning of the thread if anyone had...

I've considered it, seems a lot of work to me when new orings will last another 5-7 years easy. I don't have access to free machine-work so that's a big issue for me, may not be for you. The bag tops are plastic, so may not be threadable. A tight system should sit for weeks without dropping...

Re: If you were the engineer responsible for P38 htr core O-rings, would you admit it? I'm not looking forward to doing mine, not leaking yet....knock on all the wood in the shop.... I replaced the core in SWMBO's old Volvo in 30 minutes, no s**t. I wish the RR would be that easy.

you may make more in sales by parting it, but how much time will you spend? may end up backwards overall.

dunno if it's the same on the classic, but on p38's there's an extra pivot point (to make the handle work on L or R door) that gets in the way as things wear, snap it off and the handle pulls MUCH easier. may be something similar you can do as well as adjusting the linkage...

good deal, glad it was easy :) the small leaks are the hardest to find...

I'll bet it's a "Right Rear valve stuck shut" code and he recommends replacing the EAS valve block. Don't. You will need to rebuild the AIR compressor.

block leaks, or the other spring. Oring kit is $22 and about 4 hours work.

about $3k, I looked into it about 6 months ago, may have come down some but I doubt it.

the pins are marked on the bottom of the relay IIRC, or pin 1 to 8 on the ECU connector will run the comp. the real issue is why did the compressor continue to run after you shut off the engine? perhaps the relay stuck? not raising is most often a combination of a slow compressor and leaky...

you need hub-centric rings to take up the space to go the other way, so it make sense you would need to remove some to do what you want. There are 18" LR3 wheels available, don't know how hard they are to find though.